Hi all, looking at an air heat pump i just purchased. It calls for 220v single phase to a single line in on the appliance (L, N, GRD available) Can i run my 30 amp dual pole breaker (110 per pole) and connect both hot lines to the single terminal on the appliance end? Thanks in advance if someone's able to advise me a bit better here!!

 

Hi,
This solution will work for most devices.
But I would suggest you call the manufacturer's representative and check.
Some devices have a polarity check circuit and then there may be problems.
Then the pump will not start and may show errors on the display

 

EMPHATICALLY NO.

One pole of the dual breaker should go to the L terminal. The other pole should go to the N terminal. This provides 220 volts to the heat pump.

If you connect both poles to the L terminal, you will have a direct short across 220 volts.

 

Hi,
This solution will work for most devices.
But I would suggest you call the manufacturer's representative and check.
Some devices have a polarity check circuit and then there may be problems.
Then the pump will not start and may show errors on the display

PS .I mean one phase to L, second phase to N

 

I think you are talking about the sort of mains supply used in north America. That is basicaly 220 volts but the center tap of the supply transformer is connected to ground. this is the neutral on your 110 volt sockets. the live some sockets will be connected to one end ofthe secandary of the supply transformer, others will be connected to the other end. You will also have 220 volt sockets that will be connected to both ends of the transformer. (Neither pin on the 220 volt socket is neutral.)
The documentation supplied with your 220 volt device seems to be for the way mains is supplied in europe (And some other countries. ) . There there one end of the 220 volt secondary of the supply transformer is connected to neutral the other end is connected to live. (So there is 220 volts between live and neutral.
You will need to connect your new device to a 220 volt socket (On which both pins are live.) with the live connction on the device connected to one one live on the socket and the neutral on your device connected to the other live on your socket.
NOTE neutral on the supply will always be at about ground potential.)
I hope this explanation helps.

Les.

 

@LesJones @Pyrex @Jon Chandler

Sounds like what everyone is saying was the other thought that crossed my mind. The machine is labelled L N GRD, where for Canada it should be suitable to be labeled L1 L2 GRD like everything else i've installed. (Just unboxed this thing fresh from China)

The photo below shows blue and yellow wires coming from L and N, green/yellow attaches to a ground bar. Ive also attached the schematic if that adds up

So from my 30 amp dual pole breaker i can run a 10/2 with a hot leg on both L and N on the appliance, and obviously the bare to the ground. Simple as that?

Thank you all !!

 

What about the 50 Hz?

 

Much of 230v in EU and the UK is derived from a single phase of a Star connected transformer, 400v 3ph÷√3=230 volt 1ph. , with the star point being Neutral.

 

Indeed , US 240 (Red and Black) can be connected across the L and the N terminals, and the yellow/green ground connected to a safety ground. BUT I suggest first checking for voltage between the case of the heater and neutral to verify that the isolation is adequate.
And the "neutral" terminals should be re-labeled to "L2" for future reference.

 

Hi all, looking at an air heat pump i just purchased. It calls for 220v single phase to a single line in on the appliance (L, N, GRD available) Can i run my 30 amp dual pole breaker (110 per pole) and connect both hot lines to the single terminal on the appliance end? Thanks in advance if someone's able to advise me a bit better here!!

N.A. is now 240v/120V 1ph domestic supply.
If in Canada, you it will require GFI protection for pool use.

 

N.A. is now 240v 1ph domestic supply.
If in Canada, you it will require GFI protection for pool use.

Thanks, i have a 50 amp GFI main disconnect before my 50amp subpanel

 

One additional caution is that the voltage out to the "PUMP" terminals will also be 220 volts. If the pump motor is a 120 volt device then an alternate arrangement for pump power will be required.

 

One additional caution is that the voltage out to the "PUMP" terminals will also be 220 volts. If the pump motor is a 120 volt device then an alternate arrangement for pump power will be required.

Thank you. My pump is also 220v but judging by the gauge of those wires and that my pump is currently run by a 10 guage wire, i don't think that's adequate and ill probably choose to keep my pump wired seperate

 

The one thing I forgot to mention is marking that second phase wire some color other than white or green. I cheat and use a red permanent marker to identify it at the connection. Red tape would be good as well.

 

The one thing I forgot to mention is arking that second phase wire some color other than white or green. I cheat and use a red permanent marker to identify it at the connection. Red tape would be good as well.

Red permanent markers fade over time, especially with UV exposure. I believe red electrical tape is code approved. This is a kind of professional courtesy towards the electricians that come after you (and you never know, that electrician might be you. )

 

Red permanent markers fade over time, especially with UV exposure. I believe red electrical tape is code approved. This is a kind of professional courtesy towards the electricians that come after you (and you never know, that electrician might be you. )

Mostly there is very little sunlight or other UV inside most electrical boxes, at least in my locality. And in my house there does not appear to be any fading after quite a few years. AND, I was intending to mention that I used the permanent markers of the reputable brand. not the water based ones for dry erase boards.