Location 1 Main Relay says it receives 230 ACV to operate the PBA. My guess is you should see 230 ACV between neutral and those relay contacts, both contacts when the relay is energized. I would guess for that relay to energize there is a "permissive loop" of conditions which need to be met. Things like door lock etc. If neutral to those terminals you are only seeing 93 ACV and you have 230 ACV mains something is wrong.

Ron

 

Location 1 Main Relay says it receives 230 ACV to operate the PBA. My guess is you should see 230 ACV between neutral and those relay contacts, both contacts when the relay is energized. I would guess for that relay to energize there is a "permissive loop" of conditions which need to be met. Things like door lock etc. If neutral to those terminals you are only seeing 93 ACV and you have 230 ACV mains something is wrong.

Ron

Where do i go from here?

Checked again and this time its 83v

Funny you mentioned the door lock. Manual says i should see about 940 ohms testing the door lock switch. I am seeing 720. Does that mean its defective?

 

Yep, im showing 125v at terminal where black wire connects to. Why is that though since the power source is 220v?

How do i energize it though, to perform this test?

You are miss-quoting this as coming from me!
Max.

 

You are miss-quoting this as coming from me!
Max.

Sorry Max. Fixed it.

 

If I mentioned 120 V it was likely my bad before I knew what the mains voltage was (220 ACV). Unfortunately when I click on the drawings to view yhe left side the image shifts. Washing machines normally have what I call a permissive loop meaning certain conditions must be met before other things can happen. Part of this becomes a matter of looking at the drawing and trying to understand what happens when and what is necessary for things to happen. I doubt the door switch is bad but don't understand the resistance?

Am I the only one having an issue with expanding the drawing and not being able to view the right hand side?

Ron

 

If I mentioned 120 V it was likely my bad before I knew what the mains voltage was (220 ACV). Unfortunately when I click on the drawings to view yhe left side the image shifts. Washing machines normally have what I call a permissive loop meaning certain conditions must be met before other things can happen. Part of this becomes a matter of looking at the drawing and trying to understand what happens when and what is necessary for things to happen. I doubt the door switch is bad but don't understand the resistance?

Am I the only one having an issue with expanding the drawing and not being able to view the right hand side?

Ron

You're not the only one. I just tried clicking on the image and same thing, right side doesnt show.
You can go to the links directly to see the pictures. Alternatively, you can right click on the pictures and save them to your computer.
https://i.imgur.com/pz0bapi.png
https://i.imgur.com/b72JVjs.gif
https://i.imgur.com/HFuXbIU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8PFzRkU.png
https://i.imgur.com/uazgBAy.png
https://i.imgur.com/j0w9neP.png
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.ne...ZLYXAO2jpQXoVk#sthash.yFX4jzLW.dpuf

 

If I mentioned 120 V it was likely my bad before I knew what the mains voltage was (220 ACV). Unfortunately when I click on the drawings to view yhe left side the image shifts. Washing machines normally have what I call a permissive loop meaning certain conditions must be met before other things can happen. Part of this becomes a matter of looking at the drawing and trying to understand what happens when and what is necessary for things to happen. I doubt the door switch is bad but don't understand the resistance?

Am I the only one having an issue with expanding the drawing and not being able to view the right hand side?

Ron

One way around that problem is to right-click on the image and save it, then left-click on the saved file.
Windows will then open the file and you can navigate however you want to through the drawing.

 

One way around that problem is to right-click on the image and save it, then left-click on the saved file.
Windows will then open the file and you can navigate however you want to through the drawing.

Ya know, I never thought about doing that. Thanks for the reminder.

Ron

 

C'mon guys, don'y give up on me now.

 

I think we have pretty much beat that relay up. If the relay is closing measuring across the contacts will show close to zero volts. Like measuring across a closed switch. That should tell you if it is activating.

Ron

 

I think we have pretty much beat that relay up. If the relay is closing measuring across the contacts will show close to zero volts. Like measuring across a closed switch. That should tell you if it is activating.

Ron

OK...

1. Does a closed relay automatically mean a working relay? If not, then...
2. How can i accurately determine whether it is not defective if...a) i can't get to the reverse side of the board b) the machine is not turning on?
3. What does it mean if the main is 220v but measuring the voltage between one terminal on this main-relay and ground (the machine frame) shows around 83 volts only?
4. Is doing like what MaxHeadRoom suggested in post #5 sufficient enough to determine if the relay is good or not. which is not feeling/hearing a click while turning the switch on and off at the main power, both while the relay is hooked and unhooked?

Really appreciate your help guys!

 

1
If the relay contacts are closed when you press the start button BUT they are open when there is no power to the machine then the relay is almost certainly good. If the contacts are closed bothe when the stat button is pressed AND when there is no power to the machine than the contacts are probably welded together and the relay is faulty. (BUT if this was the case then the machine probably would not switch off.)

2
Without getting to the coil connections you can't test the relay correctly. I cannot find a point on the component side of the board where you can access the relay coil.

Les.

3 I can't answer this question as you do not say which country you are in. The point on the mains supply that is connected to ground is not the same in different countries.

4
What Max has said is the best you can do to test the relay without access to the coil connections.

It is possible the relay is not closing because the 12volt DC supply is not working. Can you measure the voltage between D22 negative and D19 positive. BE VERY CARFULL DOING THIS AS BOTH POINTS WILL PROBABLY BE AT A HIGH VOLTAGE WITH RESPECT TO EARTH

Les.

 

1
If the relay contacts are closed when you press the start button BUT they are open when there is no power to the machine then the relay is almost certainly good. If the contacts are closed bothe when the stat button is pressed AND when there is no power to the machine than the contacts are probably welded together and the relay is faulty. (BUT if this was the case then the machine probably would not switch off.)

2
Without getting to the coil connections you can't test the relay correctly. I cannot find a point on the component side of the board where you can access the relay coil.

Les.

3 I can't answer this question as you do not say which country you are in. The point on the mains supply that is connected to ground is not the same in different countries.

4
What Max has said is the best you can do to test the relay without access to the coil connections.

It is possible the relay is not closing because the 12volt DC supply is not working. Can you measure the voltage between D22 negative and D19 positive. BE VERY CARFULL DOING THIS AS BOTH POINTS WILL PROBABLY BE AT A HIGH VOLTAGE WITH RESPECT TO EARTH

Les.

Could you point me in the right direction...Where is D22 and D19. It's Saudi Arabia.

 

Look at the PCB or the pictures in post #20
I don't know anything about the electrical distribution system in Saudi Arabia. You will need to find someone local with some electrical knowledge.

Les.

 

Look at the PCB or the pictures in post #20
I don't know anything about the electrical distribution system in Saudi Arabia. You will need to find someone local with some electrical knowledge.

Les.

OK! Found D19 and D22 on the board. Are they diodes?? How do i go about measuring? Is it one probe on D19 and the other on D22 with the multimeter set to 20 DC voltage?

 

Yes you are correct. (The end of the diode marked with a band is the positive end.) Again be VERY CARFULL. Although you are only expecting 12 volts DC between those two points they will both have 220 volts AC on them with respect to earth. This is enough to kill you if you touch them.

Les.

 

Yes you are correct. (The end of the diode marked with a band is the positive end.) Again be VERY CARFULL. Although you are only expecting 12 volts DC between those two points they will both have 220 volts AC on them with respect to earth. This is enough to kill you if you touch them.

Les.

OK thanks. One more thing, I can't access the reverse side of the board so is it ok to do this test on the the component side (the side on the picture above)?

If so, then it's one probe on D19 positive side (the side with the band on the diode) and the other probe on D22 negative side (the side with no band on the diode)...right?

Any idea how i can get through the protective silicone putty on the board? Would poking a needle through to the points and then touching the probes to the needles do?

 

Yes you are correct. (The end of the diode marked with a band is the positive end.) Again be VERY CARFULL. Although you are only expecting 12 volts DC between those two points they will both have 220 volts AC on them with respect to earth. This is enough to kill you if you touch them.

Les.

To reaffirm what Les mentioned:

The positive end of a diode is called the anode, and the negative end is called the cathode. Current can flow from the anode end to the cathode, but not the other direction. If you forget which way current flows through a diode, try to remember the mnemonic ACID: “anode current in diode” (also anode cathode is diode).

The band side is the Cathode. Working from this link. There is also this forum link: Introduction to Diodes And Rectifiers. which isn't a bad read on the subject. You can pretty much figure a basic diode as a unidirectional current flow device.

Ron