Joined Nov 21, 2018
518
Hi,
and is the current 0-10A means the maximum current is 10A at any voltage? or can be larger at lower voltage?
Thanks

#### SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
3,402
Max current at any voltage is 10A. Why do you need so much power? Most are satisfied with 30V, 3A bench power supplies.

Joined Nov 21, 2018
518
Max current at any voltage is 10A. Why do you need so much power? Most are satisfied with 30V, 3A bench power supplies.
Thanks.
I had one many years ago, and broken, I used for my diy projects.
Actually what I need is a large current at low voltage say: 0-48V and 0-40A; low current at high voltage say 3A at 60-90V.

#### ElectricSpidey

Joined Dec 2, 2017
1,653
Then that is not the unit for you.

You will need at least a 2000 watt supply, twice what that one can deliver...40 amps @ 48 volts in a lab supply will cost a great deal.

#### crutschow

Joined Mar 14, 2008
27,184
Might be better (and cheaper) to get two different supplies for your low voltage and high voltage requirements.

Joined Nov 21, 2018
518
Might be better (and cheaper) to get two different supplies for your low voltage and high voltage requirements.
Thanks.
Good idea.
How about to buy this one 96V-16A and DIY a dc-dc step down?

#### SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
3,402
If you want a noisy switch mode power supply... There is no voltage adjust or current limit capability either. Those are what I consider to be a single purpose power supply and not an accurate and reliable bench instrument. FWIW

#### LowQCab

Joined Nov 6, 2012
510
What you are asking for is either very-large, or very expensive, or both.
Prices start at at least ~$200.oo for clean, Regulated Power in that range ....... Do you really NEED that much Current/Power ? If you want a cheap DIY High-Power-Supply, start out with a MOT (Microwave-Oven-Transformer), which you can get from any "Thrift-Shop". 2-MOTs would be ideal, because they generally don't have enough Inductance in the Primary Windings for efficient operation. ( they need to be fed half of their rated Primary-Voltage, i.e., 2-Primaries in series ) Then wind your own Multi-Tap-Secondaries with ~10-gauge, THHN insulated, Stranded-Wire, and provide high-Current-Connectors for selecting the various Voltage-Ranges that you expect to need. Now that you have High-Current AC, you need to convert it to well-Filtered-DC, which is not as easy as you may think. ( a third, completely stripped, MOT Core, makes a great Inductor-Core for part of the Filter ). Plus ~$50.oo to ~$150.oo worth of Bulk-Storage-Capacitors. Then you need to Regulate the DC-Voltage, with a serious Linear-Voltage-Regulator, and, provide adjustable Current-Limiting, and, Meters for both Voltage and Current, and, a nice fat Heat-Sink for that ~100-Amp Linear-Regulator, and, Cooling-Fan(s) to keep everything happy, and, an Aluminum-Box to put it all in. This will create a Clean Power-Supply capable of a continuous and comfortable ~500-Watts, with maximum Current of ~50-Amps. If you're really dead-set on this, I'll show you how to pull it off, but first, make sure your specifications are actually what you need. Thread Starter #### LAOADAM Joined Nov 21, 2018 518 What you are asking for is either very-large, or very expensive, or both. Prices start at at least ~$200.oo for clean, Regulated Power in that range .......

Do you really NEED that much Current/Power ?

If you want a cheap DIY High-Power-Supply,
start out with a MOT (Microwave-Oven-Transformer),
which you can get from any "Thrift-Shop".
2-MOTs would be ideal, because they generally don't have
enough Inductance in the Primary Windings for efficient operation.
( they need to be fed half of their rated Primary-Voltage, i.e., 2-Primaries in series )

Then wind your own Multi-Tap-Secondaries with ~10-gauge, THHN insulated, Stranded-Wire,
and provide high-Current-Connectors for selecting
the various Voltage-Ranges that you expect to need.

Now that you have High-Current AC,
you need to convert it to well-Filtered-DC, which is not as easy as you may think.
( a third, completely stripped, MOT Core, makes a great Inductor-Core for part of the Filter ).
Plus ~$50.oo to ~$150.oo worth of Bulk-Storage-Capacitors.

Then you need to Regulate the DC-Voltage, with a serious Linear-Voltage-Regulator,
and, Meters for both Voltage and Current,
and, a nice fat Heat-Sink for that ~100-Amp Linear-Regulator,
and, Cooling-Fan(s) to keep everything happy,
and, an Aluminum-Box to put it all in.

This will create a Clean Power-Supply capable of a continuous and comfortable ~500-Watts,
with maximum Current of ~50-Amps.

If you're really dead-set on this, I'll show you how to pull it off,
but first, make sure your specifications are actually what you need.
Thank you for so detail.
Firstly, you said right, it is not necessary to have such large I/V in both, at least don't use it often.
Then I'll do the test as your idea start from a MOT, actually I have two of MOT left on the shelf by a DIYed spot weld.
Best