I recently purchased a 100k 2w potentiometer from Newark to replace a low quality 100k .5 watt potentiometer that appeared to be malfuntioning.
It is being used on a pulse width modulator to control a 24V trolling motor The output signal rises from 0-25% within the first 10degrees of the turn, then jumps sharply to 60%+ with the remaining increase spread over 90% of the knob travel. The ohm readings on the potentionmeter appear normal when not connected to the pwm. This was the same problem with the previous one. The PWM has power switch as well as a forward/off/reverse toggle. The "off position does not turn off the pwm power, just the output. The original unit worked properly during tests but then malfunctioned after it was turned up while the forward/off/reverse was in the off mode, but the pwm was still on.
In your opinion, could this have caused a malfunction in the PWM, or can I expect to achieve a less sensitive reaction using a different pot?

 

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I recently purchased a 100k 2w potentiometer from Newark to replace a low quality 100k .5 watt potentiometer that appeared to be malfuntioning. It is being used on a pulse width modulator to control a 24V trolling motor

The output signal rises from 0-25% within the first 10degrees of the turn, then jumps sharply to 60%+ with the remaining increase spread over 90% of the knob travel. The ohm readings on the potentionmeter appear normal when not connected to the pwm. This was the same problem with the previous one.

The PWM has power switch as well as a forward/off/reverse toggle. The "off position does not turn off the pwm power, just the output. The original unit worked properly during tests but then malfunctioned after it was turned up while the forward/off/reverse was in the off mode, but the pwm was still on.

In your opinion, could this have caused a malfunction in the PWM, or can I expect to achieve a less sensitive reaction using a different pot?

Post a schematic.

Why would you replace a half watt pot with a 2W? Do you know something the OEM didn't?

 

Welcome to AAC!

Use paragraphs to make your post more readable. I've tried to do that below:
Post a schematic.

Why would you replace a half watt pot with a 2W? Do you know something the OEM didn't?

Actually, I know less than most. The PWM is an Amazon item without any schematics available.
I replaced the original pot with a higher quality pot, and used the 2w based on a recommendation that it would be less apt to fail.
It appeared to function correctly until "throttling it up" with output turned off. After that

 

Welcome to AAC!

Use paragraphs to make your post more readable. I've tried to do that below:
Post a schematic.

Why would you replace a half watt pot with a 2W? Do you know something the OEM didn't?

 

The PWM is an Amazon item without any schematics available.

Unlikely that you'll be able to get any help without one.

 

Got a part number for this high quality pot from Newark?

Is it linear taper or logarithmetic?

 

Welcome to AAC!

Use paragraphs to make your post more readable. I've tried to do that below:
Post a schematic.

Got a part number for this high quality pot from Newark?

Is it linear taper or logarithmetic?

Hello, The problem seems to be in the pwm, as it performed coreectly with the original pot until I turned it up while the output was off. I thought it was the pot, but the new one is the same
Here are the specs on the pot:

pt# 04F8769
mfg # 53C3100K

Description: CONDUCTIVE PLASTIC POTENTIOMETER, 100KOHM, 10%, 2W; Track Resistance:100kohm; Power Rating:2W; Resistance Tolerance: 10%; Product Range:53 Series; No. of Turns:1Turns; Track Taper:Linear; Potentiometer Mountinganel; No. of Gangs:1


Why would you replace a half watt pot with a 2W? Do you know something the OEM didn't?