I was at the scrap yard and picked up a motor laying in the pile. It has 205850 on the sticker for a type number as well as speed 16000 110 volt.
It has 2 wires going to a tach

it has 3 wires going to the motor (red, grey, black) I measured 2.8 ohms between each of the leads (so a delta configuration??)

I want to use the motor, and can not find a wiring diagram.

It looks like it is close to this motor Whirlpool 8182793 (which is 17500 rpm) But these are used in front loader washing machines with belt drive.

It appears to be brushless

I do not see a centrifugal switch

I would also like to take off the tach and use it in a separate project, so I would like to find some specs on it. I would like to be able to digital readout eventually that would be he RPM.

I appreciate any help.

so, I would appreciate a link to any wiring diagrams that would help me to figure out how to wire the motor.

I would appreciate any tips on how to reuse the tach in different motor (and would like any diagrams that would help me with that)

Thanks for the help.

I did search but could not find anything on this motor.

I found many on older motors, but nothing that came close to the 3 wires that I see on this motor.

 

I believe you have one of the small 3phase motors fitted to front loaders.
If so you need a VFD of some kind to run it.
If you short the three wires and try and spin the shaft, if it resists movement it is a P.M. motor, if not difference it is induction motor.
Max.

 

The budget it tight on this project (which is why I was at the scrap yard looking for parts).

I will go through the craigs list locally and check for people givingaway free washing machines, and check the model numbers. It may takea while, but I will eventually find one that I can take the control module out of.

It is never easy.

On the tach, I guess I can spin it up and see what the volts per rev are, and hope it is some nice number.

 

On the tach, I guess I can spin it up and see what the volts per rev are, and hope it is some nice number.

A internet source turned up it is a 3ph induction motor, the tach is either 3 output for commutation, or if single, usually a low res mag sensor <50p/rev.
Max.

 

I understand, it would be grateful if you send me your email id, i will send you some links with documents as you required.
Exporters India is Largest B2B Marketplace for Consumer Electronics (Washing Machine Supplier)

new to this forum sorry.
Theodore_a_wilson@yahoo.com

 

Thanks for the info. I will look a t a vfd or keep an eye out for a broken newer front loader and see if I can get some parts. If it were 220 three phase, I have several other 3 phase motors I cold generate the third leg, not sure how to do it with 110 three phase.... I guess seveal big caps.... I will look for vdf schematics. I did find the motor controller as a spare part, but it would break the budget.

if nothing else, I will scrap the copper and reuse the bearings and balanced shaft.

 

I know this is kind of an old thread/topic but I happened to salvage the same motor, harness and controller out of an old Frigidaire washing machine before I junked it out. I wired up the controller and jumped out the interlocks but the motor seems to only go through what appears to be some type of short wash cycle. It will start out spinning around 800rpm CCW, stop and then spin CW at about the same RPM initially. After a short period of maybe 20 seconds it will ramp up to about 8k rpm and then after running that speed for a minute or so it will ramp up to a little over ~14k rpm. It will maintain that speed fro several minutes and then wind down and stop. You have to cycle the power to it to initiate the run again. I also saved all of the drawings from the washer as well but they just give you basic wiring schematics for the machine and are helpful for determining the inputs on the board and such but not much else in regards to the controller.
Did you get a VFD and run your motor or did you just scrap it?
I would like to use this one if I could at the very least get it to run continually but with the original controller it doesn't appear to be realistically possible.