This 'works' on the computer simulation, but not when I build it. The three LED's should flash on and off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

For a start, your resistor values are way to low. They should not be 4.7ohms!
Try 4.7K ohms.
If you have used 4.7ohms, the 555 may now be dead.

 

For a start, your resistor values are way to low. They should not be 4.7ohms!
Try 4.7K ohms.
If you have used 4.7ohms, the 555 may now be dead.

Ahh 4.7K I see.

 

Minimum resistor values should be 1k (except for the one connected to the output). Change the upper left one to and left center to 3k or more.

also,if you're using cheap white LEDs, they need 3.2 to 3.5v each and 9v isn't enough.

at

 

With 4.7ohms, and 9V, the 555 will be trying to switch almost 2 amps!
WAY outside its specs. Where did you get the value of 4.7ohms? Check the source of you circuit again and you may find it was 4.7K or sometimes written 4K7 ohms.

 

Note, resistor values adjusted in previous post.

 

An easy mistake to do. I've done it myself a few times in my 50+ years of electronics

 

This forum has been such a tremendous help to me. I work with our theater at school and am going for a 'fire' effect, (like in a torch) in a prop.
I am ready to build my first circuit. I have created the circuit below on a breadboard and am ready to purchase the materials to build it, but I have a few questions about materials I will need and would appreciate a little advice... This is my first try and I plan on making mistakes and learning each time.

1) PCB Boards - anything special or are they all similar?
2) What type of wire (gauge) is typical to use on the PCB board to solder? I can probably get that on Amazon, right?

Any other advice is always appreciated.

 

Look for Strip (Vero) board 3rd way down page for prototyping a board.
https://www.futurlec.com/Protoboards.shtml
You may also obtain all or most of the parts there also.

 

For protoyping on stripboard, I use 30AWG wire-wrap wire. You would need a wire-wrap wire stripper for this.
Any plastic insulated single strand wire from 24WG to 30AWG would be suitable.

 

For the strip board you also need a 3mm - 1/8inch drill bit to open up a trace.

 

For the strip board you also need a 3mm - 1/8inch drill bit to open up a trace.

Or use an X-Acto knife to cut the trace.
It is easier to cut the trace at a both sides of a hole.
However, if you want to save the hole you can cut the trace in between where there is no hole.

 

One other tip, I use a box-cutter to run the blade down between the strips when done, it detects any whisker shorts that may exist between tracks.

 

Or use an X-Acto knife to cut the trace.
It is easier to cut the trace at a both sides of a hole.
However, if you want to save the hole you can cut the trace in between where there is no hole.

There is little chance of cutting your self or cutting a neighboring strip if you use an 1/8" drill bit. If you have strong hands, you can just put the bit into a hole, spin the bit a few turns and the trace will be divided at the hole. Most major US companies have tightly regulated the use of X-acto blades and utility knives and razor knives because finger tips get cut off so often - especially when cutting along a ruler. Hand injuries are the most common injuries according to OSHA and lacerations are the most common hand injury. Avoid these knives if possible and use the drill bit method. That is even safe for students and you can clearly see when the cut is done. X-acto blade cuts aren't always obvious when you are through so people keep cutting snd cutting until they see a gap. Finally, the 1/8" bit is the safe cut so you don't accidentally cut into a neighboring trace but using a fatter bit makes the twist a lot more productive and easier for people with weaker fingers.

 

1) PCB Boards - anything special or are they all similar?

You can use any prototyping boards that fit your needs and budget. For simple circuits like yours, I'd use perforated phenolic board.

From Jameco.com:

2) What type of wire (gauge) is typical to use on the PCB board to solder? I can probably get that on Amazon, right?

I use #30 Kynar type wirewrap wire for most things.

Any other advice is always appreciated.

If you take the time to do a board layout, you can maximize the use of bare wire.

This used single sided phenolic pad per hole. I put the pads on the component side so I wouldn't have to worry about shorts caused by using bare wire for routing. Component leads made up the bulk of the point to point wiring. I used #24 for power and ground.

 

If getting in to prototype as a regular thing, there is also software for Vero/strip board layout software.

https://www.electroschematics.com/veroboard-design-software/