Hi Psy,
Looks OK to me, keep the 100n's close to the 7805.
The #2 Ground should be connected directly to the grounds of the 7805 ground line.

Have you considered a simple Resistor/LED power indicator on the 5Vout?
E

Hi Eric
I haven't considered the R + LED at the 5V output, no.
And now that I think of it, I think I don't want because this is supposed to be a surveillance system to try to catch some funny guy that has been scratching my car over and over again (7x by now). And in this case, I want it to be as stealth as possible.

But please, show me the steps you took to get to the 1A fuse!

 

Hi Eric
I haven't considered the R + LED at the 5V output, no.
And now that I think of it, I think I don't want because this is supposed to be a surveillance system to try to catch some funny guy that has been scratching my car over and over again (7x by now). And in this case, I want it to be as stealth as possible.

But please, show me the steps you took to get to the 1A fuse!

[JOKE]In that case, use an IR LED![/JOKE]

I hope you catch whoever it is and stop the vandalism (not a joke).

 

[JOKE]In that case, use an IR LED![/JOKE]

I hope you catch whoever it is and stop the vandalism (not a joke).

It should be a powerful one that cut one of his fingers off when he's/she's scratching cars!

 

But please, show me the steps you took to get to the 1A fuse!

hi Psy,
Your 5v Power supply.
E

 

Can you guys suggest a nice kit of smd:
capacitors,
resistors and
fuses
from aliexpress?

 

Hi Psy,
How do you plan to trigger the ESP32 Cam's for a photo/image, when the offender strikes again?
E

 

Hi Psy,
How do you plan to trigger the ESP32 Cam's for a photo/image, when the offender strikes again?
E

The ESP32-cam firmware uses the motion sensor of the camera to activate the recording of footage and stores it into an SD card

 

Guys, today I'm going to an electronics shop.
Any of the capacitors of the circuit in post #39 needs to be of any specific type? For instance, which must be polarized and which may be ceramic? Maybe only the 47μF should be polarized?

 

Hi Psy,
Do you mean post #39?
I have used ESP32 cam on a number of projects, I would strongly recommend that you buy and build initially for only one ESP32 cam + supporting electronics.

You can then be sure that the results you get from the ESP32 cam unit trials, that the ESP32 cam will meet your 24/7 requirements.

E

 

Hi Psy,
Do you mean post #39?
I have used ESP32 cam on a number of projects, I would strongly recommend that you buy and build initially for only one ESP32 cam + supporting electronics.

You can then be sure that the results you get from the ESP32 cam unit trials, that the ESP32 cam will meet your 24/7 requirements.

E

Yes, post #39.

You are right, but I'm not going there again soon, so I have to risk it and buy it all at once. If, for some reason, things go wrong, I'll keep the parts for other things I may need in the future!
Ah and what about the fuses? Could you suggest a reference number of some fuse to use there?

 

Yes, post #39.

You are right, but I'm not going there again soon, so I have to risk it and buy it all at once. If, for some reason, things go wrong, I'll keep the parts for other things I may need in the future!
Ah and what about the fuses? Could you suggest a reference number of some fuse to use there?

Since you are buying, I would suggest—if you can afford it—to buy an assortment of tantulum caps in higher values covering your µF values. Tantalums aren’t cheap but they are far, far better than electrolytic cans in the long run, and in a car where things can get very cold and very hot you need all the edge you can get.

The other thing would be to get a decent disc* ceramic assortment for the others.
*or, just ceramic, if you are doing SMD.

 

Since you are buying, I would suggest—if you can afford it—to buy an assortment of tantulum caps in higher values covering your µF values. Tantalums aren’t cheap but they are far, far better than electrolytic cans in the long run, and in a car where things can get very cold and very hot you need all the edge you can get.

The other thing would be to get a decent disc* ceramic assortment for the others.
*or, just ceramic, if you are doing SMD.

I find these at the shop I'm going to:
https://mixtronica.com/tantalo-condensadores/44548-kit-de-100-condensadores-tantalos.html
They just don't specifiy the exact values of each one. But if they cover my needs for my small project, at that price, I can buy them, for sure. It's not that much!
And can I use tantalum for all of the caps in the circuit? I mean, I have 100nF, 22μF and 47μF. Is it possible to use all tantalum or the higher capacity ones doesn't exist in tantalum?
Probably I'm going for THT because usually printing PCBs is only for like at least 5 pcs. I don't want to have 4 of them lying around here!

 

Hi Psy,
If you are not aware, Tantalum caps will not tolerate incorrect reverse connection, they will explode, so take care.
E

 

I find these at the shop I'm going to:
https://mixtronica.com/tantalo-condensadores/44548-kit-de-100-condensadores-tantalos.html
They just don't specifiy the exact values of each one. But if they cover my needs for my small project, at that price, I can buy them, for sure. It's not that much!
And can I use tantalum for all of the caps in the circuit? I mean, I have 100nF, 22μF and 47μF. Is it possible to use all tantalum or the higher capacity ones doesn't exist in tantalum?
Probably I'm going for THT because usually printing PCBs is only for like at least 5 pcs. I don't want to have 4 of them lying around here!

The tantalums are polarized, and they are usually used for things like bypass/decoupling caps on power rails and places where a larger value in a small package is desirable. They aren’t suited for general purpose use, but are superior where called for.

Good quality ceramics are appropriate for the smaller values and for non-polarized applications.

 

Hi Psy,
If you are not aware, Tantalum caps will not tolerate incorrect reverse connection, they will explode, so take care.
E

yes, I'm aware of that. I have some of those at home but they are too small for this application requirements.

Well, the shop didn't have enough tantalum capacitors so I had to go for some ceramic disc and also electrolitic ones.
I got 1.6A fuses. They look like electrolitic capacitors but in brown. Cilindrical shape. Hoe thei're fine for the application.
I still have to buy wire appropriate to use with JST connectors. The wire they have in stock was too thick.

Edited:
So, I bought:
6x 1.6A fuses


20x 100nF tantalum
10x 47μF tantalum
12x 1N4007 diodes
20x electrolitic 22μF capacitors
6x 7805 regulators

Maybe tomorrow I start placing things on the perfurated board!

 

These are not tantalum, right? No marking for the positive nor negative leads, so no tantalum...

Just to make sure!

 

Hi Psy,
This link may help you identify caps, also a short PDF
E
https://www.electricaltechnology.or...apacitors-fixed-variable-polar-non-polar.html
.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=ff48bec18c46a1e3&sxsrf=ACQVn09fnGSa04tJxzPpJO5QVbwyA-2GeA:1711108705514&q=small+capacitor+package+types&tbm=isch&source=univ&fir=xzusNm2yD40IMM%2CwCx1OLUAh5GGhM%2C_%3BFQMJrPTEJyDOSM%2CM_s-Hc3lBs7HzM%2C_%3BvAgkc0IJRrWdxM%2Cw_AEqElfkQoeDM%2C_%3BXAVVjYkbzNpNSM%2CyJtw0FiIDvDvMM%2C_%3BYivepJtNINAGEM%2CsYJUhlInG2itSM%2C_%3Bw3V6Lu8o70O4MM%2C0SP7Zr9iVLjAnM%2C_%3BmVULkoOqavt6lM%2CNB4ty9coI0rstM%2C_%3BCwfasIYj8RCnhM%2CM_s-Hc3lBs7HzM%2C_%3BbQ60vHhOZQzF8M%2CLTFJcnw04VT4IM%2C_%3BVvW3A95onhSgiM%2CQMhtiyLhmLaWFM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kSJ19xR6rGdCIxQzMPPPXaRj_FZfQ&biw=1127&bih=636&dpr=1.4

 

Ok, things are taking shape.

This is how it goes:

Of course I could have used way less space but I'm still thinking about adding switches and leds for each ESP32-cam.
Only the 4 white connectors are not soldered yet!

Edited;
There 2 till 2 connections missing, but I'm on them as we speak!

 

I suggest that instead of having the diodes flush against the board, have them spaced a bit above the board for better air circulation. And if there is any chance that you will want to attach heat sinks of any kind to the regulators, I suggest providing clearance initially so that no modifications to part locations would be required. EAsy to leave space now, more difficult after the parts are soldered.

 

I suggest that instead of having the diodes flush against the board, have them spaced a bit above the board for better air circulation. And if there is any chance that you will want to attach heat sinks of any kind to the regulators, I suggest providing clearance initially so that no modifications to part locations would be required. EAsy to leave space now, more difficult after the parts are soldered.

Parts are akready soldered. I think the diodes wont interfere with heat sinks in case I need to add them. We will see later.
Thanks for suggestions though.