Exhaust valve actuator

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BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
Hi all,

I created a account hoping I find some people that could help me in finding a solution for my problem.

I have a exhaust valve actuator that is controlled by a Bluetooth module.
from that module 3 cables go to the valve actuator.
Ik build a system that uses 4relays and a physical switch. One connector connects to the OEM cable from the car. The other goes to the Bluetooth module. In between is the relayboard with a physical switch and I can operate the switch.
My problem is, that don’t wan
 

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Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
I can’t eddit my above posted message so I’ll have to type it again, because something went wrong and the text I wrote is missing. Sorry!

————————
Hi all,
My name is Bas and i’am from the Netherlands.

I created a account hoping I find some people that could help me in finding a solution for my problem.

I have a exhaust valve actuator that is controlled by a Bluetooth module.
from that module 3 cables go to the valve actuator.
Ik build a system that uses 4relays and a physical switch. One connector connects to the OEM cable from the car. The other goes to the Bluetooth module. In between is the relayboard with a physical switch and I can operate the valve using the switch.
My problem is, that don’t want to use the Bluetooth module. I just want to directly control the valve with a switch ore a remote control button.
With my relayboard I did some voltage checks.

the valve has 3cables
Green
Black
Red

when the ignition is on, and the valve is activated by my physical switch true my relayboard.
The voltage is:
Green +12v dc
Black -12v dc
Red +12v dc

when I close the valve the voltage is:
Green 1.5v
Black -12v
Red +12v

so I know that red and black are continuous.
And green must be the on/off cable.
so With that in mind I did exactly that.
Disconnected the connector from the valve and gave the pin from the red wire +12v the pin from the black wire -12v and then gave the pin of the green wire +12v. But nothing happenend.
When the valve was closed and I have the black and red pin the above voltage the valve openend. But I could not get it to close.
I did try to give the green wire a -12v but did does nothing.
The porblem is that it has been done, so it must be possible. A company in the USA did so (see the attached file) I contacted them but they didn’t want to give me any information on how they did it.
but Looking at there diagram they use the white cable to switch something.

in the attached files I also give you the valve information from the manufacturer.

I hope you guys could help me figure this out!

iff you’re want more information about my own relayboard please tell me and I’ll post some information

thanks in advance for all the help.

Ps
Iff this is not the way to ask for help please tell me!
 

LesJones

Joined Jan 8, 2017
4,174
According to the data sheet the valve is controlled by a PWM signal with a duty cycle between 10% and 90%. It says the frequency should be 100 Mhz but I think it is more likely to be 100 hz. You can't control it with just a switch.

Les.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
According to the data sheet the valve is controlled by a PWM signal with a duty cycle between 10% and 90%. It says the frequency should be 100 Mhz but I think it is more likely to be 100 hz. You can't control it with just a switch.

Les.
Hi Les,
Yes I saw that. In the normal way OEM ore factory style. You have a remote button, that’s connected by Bluetooth. When you pres it. The valve opens, when you pres it again the valve shuts.
So that’s the same as how I made my relayboard. That is like a bypass for the Bluetooth switch, and now I uses a physical switch and it does works fine.
Also the company (see the attached file) also made a little box that is plugged in to the valve and doesn’t even need the Bluetooth module. It directly connects to the valve and is operated by a wiresless switch. So it has been done.

normally the valve is closed because it should not be openend on public roads. So that’s your 90% and the 10% is when you open it. Isn’t that the way to read it?

but again, people have done it. And even selling there devices out to the world.

but I don’t want to pay over $250 when I already got as far as a physical switch.

hope you understand the reason I want to figure this out!

greets Bas
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,155
You missed the point. The valve isn’t controlled by applying a voltage which is what you’d do with a switch.

Some devices are controlled by a specific signal... Which your valve is. The signal is called PWM. PWM is a digital signal at a given frequency whose pulses have their on/off time modified for specific positions or states. A switch is on or off. A PWM signal is on for a certain period of time and then is switched off. And this on/off cycle is fast and done at a given frequency.

So you need additional electronics which does this fast switching on/off depending on an input. A microprocessor and coding is one way to create this signal. I mention the microprocessor to indicate the complexity of controlling your valve.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,044
You could create a device with a user interface that is a mechanical switch but that switch must be connected to a PWM generator, not the valve. The PWM generator is then connected to the valve.

The switch would select the duty cycle of the PWM signal and so control the valve.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
You missed the point. The valve isn’t controlled by applying a voltage which is what you’d do with a switch.

Some devices are controlled by a specific signal... Which your valve is. The signal is called PWM. PWM is a digital signal at a given frequency whose pulses have their on/off time modified for specific positions or states. A switch is on or off. A PWM signal is on for a certain period of time and then is switched off. And this on/off cycle is fast and done at a given frequency.

So you need additional electronics which does this fast switching on/off depending on an input. A microprocessor and coding is one way to create this signal. I mention the microprocessor to indicate the complexity of controlling your valve.
Yes, I did some reading about pwm. And after what you wrote I do understand that this isn’t you’re normal on/off switch.

but, how is it possible to create the signal the valve needs to do it without the Bluetooth module?
because a company did this and the box is very little so there isn’t much in there. Also, I saw some one from Belgium also created something. But you guessed it they won’t give me any information.
Are there relay switches boards that uses pwm cycle and can be altered? Ore Am i not thinking straight. ?
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,044
Yes, I did some reading about pwm. And after what you wrote I do understand that this isn’t you’re normal on/off switch.

but, how is it possible to create the signal the valve needs to do it without the Bluetooth module?
because a company did this and the box is very little so there isn’t much in there. Also, I saw some one from Belgium also created something. But you guessed it they won’t give me any information.
Are there relay switches boards that uses pwm cycle and can be altered? Ore Am i not thinking straight. ?
A module like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Module-Analog-Voltage-2KHZ-20KHZ/dp/B07YZ3LKP6/) and a couple of voltage dividers would do it. I am guessing the actual frequency required is 1KHz.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
You could create a device with a user interface that is a mechanical switch but that switch must be connected to a PWM generator, not the valve. The PWM generator is then connected to the valve.

The switch would select the duty cycle of the PWM signal and so control the valve.
I think this is what my relayboard does, it takes the OEM car wires into the board uses relays and puts the signal true to the Bluetooth module, then back to the valve. But because I use the relayboard I can use a physical switch so set the relays and connect the car wires back to the Bluetooth module.

so nothing more then a bypass but still using the Bluetooth module for its pwm signal..

Still why can other people do it so easy.
see this attached file, it looks like a relay box from Ali

ow and the other picture is from my relayboard.
Female is connected to the factory car connector.
male is connected to the Bluetooth module.

I can explain it iff it needs to be explained.
 

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Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,044
I think this is what my relayboard does, it takes the OEM car wires into the board uses relays and puts the signal true to the Bluetooth module, then back to the valve. But because I use the relayboard I can use a physical switch so set the relays and connect the car wires back to the Bluetooth module.

so nothing more then a bypass but still using the Bluetooth module for its pwm signal..

Still why can other people do it so easy.
see this attached file, it looks like a relay box from Ali

ow and the other picture is from my relayboard.
Female is connected to the factory car connector.
male is connected to the Bluetooth module.

I can explain it iff it needs to be explained.
Creating two PWM signals is not complicated for a person who understands the electronics but it is more complicated than a switch. You just need to have two signals: 10% and 90% duty cycles at (apparently) 1KHz.

But you have to understand what you are doing. That's why I suggested the module up above, to make it somewhat simpler.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,044
Okay, so this is what I need, ore one of the things I need.
So this module may also be in the box that the company made?
Is there a way to know what frequency I need? Is that written on the data sheet?
It is unlikely they used an off the shelf module. They might even use a small MCU which would be cheap and easy. The datasheet says "100 MHz" but that seems very unlikely. The 1 to 100 KHz range is more likely, so I am guessing the "MHz" should have been "KHz".
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
Creating two PWM signals is not complicated for a person who understands the electronics but it is more complicated than a switch. You just need to have two signals: 10% and 90% duty cycles at (apparently) 1KHz.

But you have to understand what you are doing. That's why I suggested the module up above, to make it somewhat simpler.
Okay, so using this module it will make things simpler? Are there cheaper ones iff so what do I need to look for iff I want to buy a module off this kind?
I could buy just the one you posted.

what more do I need to get this thing to work? I learn quick and I do understand some electronics but having someone that could help me would be great!
I want to make this work! And reading al of this I think i can! With some help offcourse!
I do have a multimeter if that’s usefull, I also have a power voltage supply that I can alter the voltage with.

Is it possible to give me some kind of list on the electrical components I need?
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
It is unlikely they used an off the shelf module. They might even use a small MCU which would be cheap and easy. The datasheet says "100 MHz" but that seems very unlikely. The 1 to 100 KHz range is more likely, so I am guessing the "MHz" should have been "KHz".
I think you are correct on that one.
About the Bluetooth module it has a continuous +12v dc and-12v
When I used my multi meter the green cable “pwm wire” (after I switched my relay to its on position) shown +12v dc.
when I started the car the voltage got even higher.
After i switch the relays to its off position the green wire shown 1.5v
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,044
Okay, so using this module it will make things simpler? Are there cheaper ones iff so what do I need to look for iff I want to buy a module off this kind?
I could buy just the one you posted.

what more do I need to get this thing to work? I learn quick and I do understand some electronics but having someone that could help me would be great!
I want to make this work! And reading al of this I think i can! With some help offcourse!
I do have a multimeter if that’s usefull, I also have a power voltage supply that I can alter the voltage with.

Is it possible to give me some kind of list on the electrical components I need?
I am reluctant to start down this road because I don't think I have the time to help you finish it. I will tell you this, and this is without any testing or further investigation so take it for what it is worth.

That module, and others like it, convert a voltage to a PWM signal with a particular duty cycle. For example, 0-5V would get you 0% to 100%. You need 10% and 90%, so, you need to be able to apply .5V and 4.5V.

You can use a voltage divider which is made of resistors to take a 5V supply and turn it into those two values, selectable as the input to the module with a switch.

That's the idea. I hope that much helps.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
I am reluctant to start down this road because I don't think I have the time to help you finish it. I will tell you this, and this is without any testing or further investigation so take it for what it is worth.

That module, and others like it, convert a voltage to a PWM signal with a particular duty cycle. For example, 0-5V would get you 0% to 100%. You need 10% and 90%, so, you need to be able to apply .5V and 4.5V.

You can use a voltage divider which is made of resistors to take a 5V supply and turn it into those two values, selectable as the input to the module with a switch.

That's the idea. I hope that much helps.
First off all thanks for all the help you gave me at the moment!
to bad you can’t help me all the way. But maybe you ore someone else could answer me now and then.
The info you give me would help me and get me up and running.
I’ll just start this project and along the way will ask questions in this post, then hope for the best that you ore someone else could answer my question.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
One more thing,
The voltage supply is 12v dc to the Bluetooth module.
I don’t have a 5v supply, wil I need the voltage deviders to set 12v to 4.5 and 5v? Sorry iff it may sound stupid, but it will help me to understand better.
Because i want to order the module you suggested.
 

Thread Starter

BR1988

Joined Apr 14, 2021
51
One more thing,
The voltage supply is 12v dc to the Bluetooth module.
I don’t have a 5v supply, wil I need the voltage deviders to set 12v to 4.5 and 5v? Sorry iff it may sound stupid, but it will help me to understand better.
Because i want to order the module you suggested.
Ow and why does my multimeter show 12v on the on the green wire (that is the pwm wire) and even more when the car is started. Because I read that the module you suggested, give a 5v output voltage correct me iff i’am wrong
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,044
Ow and why does my multimeter show 12v on the on the green wire (that is the pwm wire) and even more when the car is started. Because I read that the module you suggested, give a 5v output voltage correct me iff i’am wrong
You will have to find an appropriate module, although I don't know from the documentation of your valve if the 5V signal would work. It's easy to get 5V from 12, but all these details, which honestly are simple, compound to make a project that needs either knowledge or handholding.

Some people here will take something like this on, and help with all the details, but it's going to be a step-by-step process.

I have too many things going on to be helpful with yet another project so I am trying to avoid leading you in a direction you can't go by yourself.
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
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