https://www.slashgear.com/1824064/every-major-socket-set-brand-ranked-worst-best/

 

My philosophy on tools is mass-quantity and diversification, over quality.

Expensive tools are very nice,
but when you're ~10-miles from home, its comforting to know that You have
duplicates of everything You might need right on your Truck.

I own at least 3 of everything, in different locations, and sometimes as many as ~5 or ~6 "common-sizes".

I really don't like it when I don't have the proper Tool for the job.
.
.
.

 

My philosophy on tools is mass-quantity and diversification, over quality.

Expensive tools are very nice,
but when you're ~10-miles from home, its comforting to know that You have
duplicates of everything You might need right on your Truck.

I own at least 3 of everything, in different locations, and sometimes as many as ~5 or ~6 "common-sizes".

I really don't like it when I don't have the proper Tool for the job.
.
.
.

"The right tool for the job" also requires that the tool be sufficiently precise to do the job (included not damaging the work with poor fitment, &c.), be robust enough to do it as many times as you would expect it to, and allow you to work without injury or other mishap.

Whether a tool is "expensive" cannot be worked out from the sticker price. The cost-benefit analysis needs to include other factors. That said, some "cheap" tools are likely to be much more expensive if they do more harm than good, and some "expensive" tools will cost far less when actually used.

So, "the right tool for the job" requires the job to be defined as well as a general category that we can call some particular tool. That is to say, a hammer—for example—is not just one thing, and even describing the size, weight, shape, and notional type won't necessarily be enough to define it when deciding if it Is the best for the job.

An "electrician's hammer" is often "a pair of Kleins" (linesman pliers). It's not a hammer at all, but it does what is needed, reliably (in context) and without damage to either the work or tool. It's all about context.

So, "cheap tools" can be very useful—if I have just a couple of large bolts to tighten, and it is unreasonable to expect I will ever need to do that again, a trip to the pawn shop for that single 50mm wrench, or socket makes more sense than paying Snap-On th cost on an entire ratchet set to get one.

When I want "cheap" tools, the pawn shop is one of my favorite sources. I can get tools that should sell for much more, and assemble a mismatched but far superior (in durability, precision, and other aspects) set compared to a similar or greater expenditure on a "cheap" set.

All this said, I will finish with two things:

1. I am not disagreeing with you, fundamentally. Geographic diversity with redundant copies is the spirit of "backup" and it applies here as well. Unless you happen to have more dollars than you can otherwise spend, it makes little sense to duplicate a new professional grade tool set in every location you might need a particular tool.
   
   What I am saying is that I can get premium tools for low prices if I am willing to have let someone else use them for a while, and that I think there is a lower limit for "cheap" that isn't as low as "breaks before I can use it" or "barely works".
   ​
2. I find my life is improved by owning and using really well made tools capable of high precision and exemplary function. I won't but a tool because it is the most expensive and more than I would buy one because it is cheapest—but I will seek to buy tools I like to hold, use, and own—even if they are somewhat more costly.
   
   But this is simply because I weight such things relatively highly in the cost-benefit analysis.
   ​

So, we mostly agree, but (though I don't know what I would find in your secondary and tertiary kits, I suspect many more "premium" tools are mine, and they probably cost more—but not necessarily as much more as one might think.

Sources for "expensive" tools for the frugal (and practical) snob:

1. The pawn shop—traditional and effective
   
   
2. eBay—the new pawn shop
   
   
3. Big Box Home Improvement Stores—always check the clearance displays, I have gotten some amazing bargains.
   
   
4. Harbor Freight—the Icon brand is a hidden gem you might not know about, Snap-On and Knipex copies ≥80% of the originals for $25~40% of the cost. Examples: Snap-On here and here; Knipex here and here.
   
   
5. Facebook Marketplace—some really great deals can be found, but I personally shy way from it because unlike pawnshops that are accountable to the police and actually report purchases, FM is the thief's friend.

 

I've also found some outstanding bargains by checking the local
Craig's-List for "Yard-Sales", ("Garage-Sales" ),
and the occasional "going-out-of-business" sales.

And, when the need arises for a custom-modified-Tool for an odd application,
it hurts a lot less when its an el-cheapo-Tool,
rather than part of a premium brand-name-Tool-Set.
I just cant bring myself to taking a Torch or a Grinder to a ~1950's Proto, or Snap-On, or Crescent, Tool,
so cheap-Tools definitely have their place.
.
.
.

 

"Looking for a married woman, recently cheated on,mad and scorned
who is willing to sell her husbands tools for cheap."

 

"Looking for a married woman, recently cheated on,mad and scorned
who is willing to sell her husbands tools for cheap."

Did that once, the tools were cursed and caused nothing but trouble with the good honest hard working tools.

 

It does happen.

If your a Gambler,
buying "defaulted-on" Commercial-Storage-Garages at auction can have huge pay-offs, ( or not )..
.
.
.

 

Old time Millwright here, who’s career relied on using ‘tools’. My value choice was Craftsman. Throughout my area, Sears was well stocked, immediate replacement, and good quality. Looking back, I replaced a few ratchets and a couple of wrenches that bore cheater bars, otherwise my box still contains many of those originals that weren’t lost. Choosing the right tool is a measure of the man, not the tool.
I will admit that when resources are limited, many tools can perform alternate tasks.

 

 

Still have all of my Craftsman tools and some of my dad's as well. I've thrown out I don't know how many sets of chinesium junk that were off-spec, broken, just plain bad, etc. When I was working in a shop that was on the "Snap-On Truck's" route I might have taken a few free couple minutes extra break to go eyeball them but (after being repeatedly warned by others) avoided signing any contracts. I will admit to buying striker flints, throwaway lens plate covers, welding lenses, or torch tip cleaners (disposable items) on rare occasions. Only Craftsman product that ever failed was the wooden handle on a 2 1/2# cross peen hammer. But they gave me a new handle!

 

Still have all of my Craftsman tools and some of my dad's as well. I've thrown out I don't know how many sets of chinesium junk that were off-spec, broken, just plain bad, etc. When I was working in a shop that was on the "Snap-On Truck's" route I might have taken a few free couple minutes extra break to go eyeball them but (after being repeatedly warned by others) avoided signing any contracts. I will admit to buying striker flints, throwaway lens plate covers, welding lenses, or torch tip cleaners (disposable items) on rare occasions. Only Craftsman product that ever failed was the wooden handle on a 2 1/2# cross peen hammer. But they gave me a new handle!

With Harbor Freight's new strategy of making good copies of excellent tools and charging reasonable prices, their no-questions-asked lifetime replacement warranty and ubiquity make them a real option for people that count on their tools.

It’s the Icon line–not cheap, just inexpensive and really quite nice. Not everything, but then not every Snap-On tool is to write home about, and there is a real question how many are worth what you have to pay for them.

I was no fan of HF, but I have purchased several Icon tools now and not regretted it.

 

Tools from china have greatly improved over the years or Harbor Freight, Northern Hydraulics, Northern Tool, and Tractor Supply would be out of business. Although they do not stand up to testing as well as other well-respected brands. Not only that but several well-known and respected American hand tool brands are now made in China. I still recall the Grade 8 bolt scam back in the 80's. china was selling Grade 8 bolts at far below the market price until someone smartened up and submitted them to an American testing company and discovered they were nowhere near Grade 8 specification or the results provided from chinese testing certification. By that time, they had been installed in several major US structural steel construction projects and many others worldwide. I also shook my head over using Japanese made structural iron pieces to build with when in Birmingham AL with the US Steel foundry almost right next door. But that is another story. Ah well, such is life...

 

Tools from china have greatly improved over the years or Harbor Freight, Northern Hydraulics, Northern Tool, and Tractor Supply would be out of business. Although they do not stand up to testing as well as other well-respected brands. Not only that but several well-known and respected American hand tool brands are now made in China. I still recall the Grade 8 bolt scam back in the 80's. china was selling Grade 8 bolts at far below the market price until someone smartened up and submitted them to an American testing company and discovered they were nowhere near Grade 8 specification or the results provided from chinese testing certification. By that time, they had been installed in several major US structural steel construction projects and many others worldwide. I also shook my head over using Japanese made structural iron pieces to build with when in Birmingham AL with the US Steel foundry almost right next door. But that is another story. Ah well, such is life...

These are made in the US, Taiwan, and other places. I don't know if any are made in China.

 

This video gives an example:

 

This video gives an example:

Looks nice but I don't like the spring in the handles when cutting. It should be very stiff. Extra force is expended into deforming the metal structure to the pivot instead of cutting jaws. For a few cuts, it won't matter much. Cutting 10 gauge wire all day at a industrial wire job, it will put more strain on the hands.

 

Looks nice but I don't like the spring in the handles when cutting. It should be very stiff. Extra force is expended into deforming the metal structure to the pivot instead of cutting jaws. For a few cuts, it won't matter much. Cutting 10 gauge wire all day at a industrial wire job, it will put more strain on the hands.

Well, when your use case suggests the Snap-On is the better cost-benefit option, then you are getting value for the extra money.

 

Here is a very unusual uTube link to some guys with a hydraulic press and pressing many objects (including tools) to failure. Needless to say, chinesium doesn't fare very well.

 

I've also found some outstanding bargains by checking the local
Craig's-List for "Yard-Sales", ("Garage-Sales" ),
and the occasional "going-out-of-business" sales.

I've also had some success with these, and estate sales as well. I do have to be careful lest the time and travel expense outweigh the savings. There's something to be said for the thrill of the bargain hunt, though.

And, when the need arises for a custom-modified-Tool for an odd application,
it hurts a lot less when its an el-cheapo-Tool,
rather than part of a premium brand-name-Tool-Set.
I just cant bring myself to taking a Torch or a Grinder to a ~1950's Proto, or Snap-On, or Crescent, Tool,
so cheap-Tools definitely have their place.

That is a great point, sometimes a cheap tool that is almost the right thing is a good place to start.

 

Needless to say, chinesium doesn't fare very well.

To be honest, I don’t know if the Chinese wrench did well of not. How many kilograms should a $10 ratchet wrench withstand?

385kg is 847 pounds! I know that I couldn’t apply that much force to the handle of a ratchet drive without using a cheater—and if you are putting a cheater on your ratchet you are using the wrong tool!

I have no doubt that the more expensive wrenches have desirable qualities the cheap one doesn’t—but this test… I can’t see how the $10 wrench fares poorly here. In fact, in terms of kg per dollar, the 7x more expensive Milwaukee doesn’t even manage twice the performance.

I suppose if you wanted to know which wrench would stand the most force from a hydraulic press this would be helpful.

 

That guy likes to crush, for the rush.

Quality tools are what you buy when the job needs to be done right, every time, every day, for your paycheck. Even with something a simple as a tie-rap. There are specification on strap tension applied to the wire bundle.

This guy has strapped a lot of bundles in it's long life.



Don't go cheap on the zips, use the good ones, with a metal pawl.

He's got the fancy new model with an E.