ESC shutting down

Thread Starter

seayaker

Joined Jan 27, 2009
74
I built a trolling motor for my kayak using this motor.
SSS 56114 360KV Brushless 1/5 Motor 13.000W 56114mm for Boat, car and Surfboard Maximum Amps: 95A Max volt: 125V.

and this ESC.
SPECS 300A BOAT ESC Flier mod. R-Snake Voltage (LiPo): 3-12S Voltage: 12V to 50V Anti-spark cable: yes Wires: 8AWG Connectors: 8mm Bullet BEC: No Size (mm): 2405735 Weight: 387g

The ESC shuts down after a few seconds, after I throttle down I can run it again almost immediately,
it will run for a few more seconds then quit again. The ESC and motor do not get hot at all Everything is connected well with 8 gauge wire I'm using a 6s 8p battery.
I have tested all the cells individually under load, all good. When I put the amp meter on it at full throttle with the prop in water it only draws about 2 amps.
the voltage drops from 24.4 to 23.9.
I have gone through all the settings in the firmware, the low voltage cutoff is at 19.2v This is supposed to be a 300 amp ESC
Which ESC, or what else do I need to get to make this work?
If the battery is only dropping .5v at full throttle and full load and it only draws 2 amps, it must be the ESC correct?




Battery- 6s 8p
 

LowQCab

Joined Nov 6, 2012
4,023
Without having Schematics, or even an Owners Manual to look at,
it's almost impossible to guess.

Isn't there a Forum talking about these parts ?
Does the manufacturer provide any help or trouble-shooting Videos ?

My first blind mechanical guess would be the Speed Control causing a problem.

There could also be a ton of Software-Settings that are incorrectly configured.
 

Martin_R

Joined Aug 28, 2019
137
What are you using for a speed controller? Could it be the duty cycle is wrong? Generally the pulse needs to be between 1 to 2 mS (from off to full speed) . Any chance of trying a different speed controller, just to eliminate it from fault finding.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
That speed controller is very light, and so I am guesing that it contains no heat sinking material at all.So the temperature inside could rise quite rapidly, and it could do an over-temp shutdown very fast. In addition the description of the motor tells almost nothing. Is it a 13 watt motor or a 13,000 watt motor, that is a big difference indeed. and what does that 1/5 even mean? Is that 1/5 horsepower? AND,what is a " 6s 8p battery. "?? I am guessing that the battery voltage is 24 volts.
I am also guessing that ESC means electronic speed control.
A 95 amp 125 volt motor would be about 12 Kw, close to 15Horsepower. At 24 volts that would be a quite heavy motor.
Is there any additional information about the motor?
Where did these come from? Ebay or Amazon or???
There i certainly a lot of information missing here.
 

Thread Starter

seayaker

Joined Jan 27, 2009
74
That speed controller is very light, and so I am guesing that it contains no heat sinking material at all.So the temperature inside could rise quite rapidly, and it could do an over-temp shutdown very fast. In addition the description of the motor tells almost nothing. Is it a 13 watt motor or a 13,000 watt motor, that is a big difference indeed. and what does that 1/5 even mean? Is that 1/5 horsepower? AND,what is a " 6s 8p battery. "?? I am guessing that the battery voltage is 24 volts.
I am also guessing that ESC means electronic speed control.
A 95 amp 125 volt motor would be about 12 Kw, close to 15Horsepower. At 24 volts that would be a quite heavy motor.
Is there any additional information about the motor?
Where did these come from? Ebay or Amazon or???
There i certainly a lot of information missing here.
The ESC is water cooled but heat is not the issue, it will shut off 10 seconds after I start the motor everything's cold. Even when I run it for a long time (without the prop) nothing gets even warm. The esc shuts down about 12 seconds after I hit the throttle even when I have it half speed or less. What would do that? It's not the battery 6s/8p means there are 6 lipo cells in series and 8 in parallel 24 volts.
 

LowQCab

Joined Nov 6, 2012
4,023
The ESC may be expecting to detect a particular Event or Condition.
If that Event or Condition is not met within X-number of clock cycles,
its instructions are to shut-down to prevent damage to something.

For example ......
The ESC may expect to see XX-amount of Current Flow at XX-Throttle position.
If one condition or the other doesn't match-up within XX Seconds, then Shut-Down.

You may not have even put your Motor in the Water, or attached a Prop to it yet.
The Motor running with no-load pulls very little Current.
The ESC may see this as a "Fault-Condition", and shut-down.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
Did you get any data sheets or connection information with either of these item? My guess is that there was no information at all provided, I once made the same error, fortunately the items were fairly cheap. The two descriptions we see are undoubtedly all the information that was provided.
So now pleae let us know what information, if any, you received. AND, how many wires from each of the items, because that may help diagnose the problem. And any labels that may be associated wit those wires.
What we havenow is none of the information needed to analyse the problem. I am not evensure about the battery specifications, volts and amp-hours ratings.
 

Phil-S

Joined Dec 4, 2015
238
What on earth are you doing trying to troubleshoot this bit of kit?
Send it back or ask for a refund.
Stuff like this should work out of the box.
It's not worth the time and effort.
But make sure you wired it up correctly before you put the boot in.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
"

Where did these come from? Ebay or Amazon or???
There i certainly a lot of information missing here.
Click to expand...
"The ESC is water cooled but heat is not the issue, it will shut off 10 seconds after I start the motor everything's cold." it may well be that it is interlocked to shut down if there is no evidence of water cooling. Many water cooled things are interlocked because without the water cooling they burn up in a real hurry. OR is it intended to bolt to an external water cooled heat sink? That could certainly be one cause of the rapid shutdown.
I am still waiting for more of a description a of the controller.
In fact, the only descriptions we have are copies of the product description, obviously written by somebody who had no understanding or insight into the meaning of what they were reading, and probably not a lot of motivation towards getting every bit of it correct. And the one that you would contact for technical support is probably not as good as that.
 
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Thread Starter

seayaker

Joined Jan 27, 2009
74
The ESC may be expecting to detect a particular Event or Condition.
If that Event or Condition is not met within X-number of clock cycles,
its instructions are to shut-down to prevent damage to something.

For example ......
The ESC may expect to see XX-amount of Current Flow at XX-Throttle position.
If one condition or the other doesn't match-up within XX Seconds, then Shut-Down.

You may not have even put your Motor in the Water, or attached a Prop to it yet.
The Motor running with no-load pulls very little Current.
The ESC may see this as a "Fault-Condition", and shut-down.
The ESC may be expecting to detect a particular Event or Condition.
If that Event or Condition is not met within X-number of clock cycles,
its instructions are to shut-down to prevent damage to something.

For example ......
The ESC may expect to see XX-amount of Current Flow at XX-Throttle position.
If one condition or the other doesn't match-up within XX Seconds, then Shut-Down.

You may not have even put your Motor in the Water, or attached a Prop to it yet.
The Motor running with no-load pulls very little Current.
The ESC may see this as a "Fault-Condition", and shut-down.
That looks like chinese specs.
OK, first the motor will run with no load, it's only when I put it in the water with the prop on that it shuts down. I got the motor from Offshore Electronics .com, I have tried to get any and all information the only other info is on the attachment. I think you may be right about the esc, but there are no options in the firmware to fix it. I've tried all the settings multiple times still nothing changes The motor will run for 10 seconds and shut down. Whatever is telling the esc to stop is not correctable. There are videos on you tube of this motor driving a kayak 11 mph. as well as surfboards and foils. I know the motor is capable I guess I need to find a better esc.
 

Attachments

LowQCab

Joined Nov 6, 2012
4,023
Have you Triple-Checked for something silly like a decimal out of place ?
or possibly a blank entry ?
or an "out-of-range" entry ?
or needs a Firmware up-grade ?
or possibly a positive number that should be a negative number ?
or ESC-Model vs Motor-Model compatibility ?

I've seen these types of problems more times than I would care to admit.

Or you could just have a "factory-defect" ESC.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
OK, if the motor will run with no load, how long will it run with no load? And if it only shuts down whenvthere is a load, then the problem is the overload trip point setting, which evidently is a software variable. No clue about the method of adjusting these variables, but that certainly seems to be a reasonable pont to check.
 
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Martin_R

Joined Aug 28, 2019
137
Is the propeller the correct size for the motor? The diameter and pitch size - both parameters are important, you may be overloading the ESC. Try a smaller prop, or one with lower pitch. Also worth mentioning is the battery - under a heavy load the battery voltage may sag and cause the ESC to shut down.
 

Martin_R

Joined Aug 28, 2019
137
Ah! You state that there's a 0.5v drop on a 2 Amp load! That implies there's a lot of resistance somewhere in your circuit. How are you measuring the current? You would need a clamp meter on the supply lead, using a meter shunt would introduce extra voltage loss in the circuit.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
Ah! You state that there's a 0.5v drop on a 2 Amp load! That implies there's a lot of resistance somewhere in your circuit. How are you measuring the current? You would need a clamp meter on the supply lead, using a meter shunt would introduce extra voltage loss in the circuit.
"an exrta voltage drop"??? If the TS uses a standard 100mV shunt, the drop would be at most 0.1 volts. And what sort of common clamp on ammeter reads DC amps? Mine only reads AC amps.
Certainly the half-volt drop at only 2 amps is a bit much, it was unfortunate that the TS did not monitor the voltage supplied at the running load. An under voltage shutdown function could indeed be a possibility. Certainly a whole lot of information has not been supplied to us. AND, I remind the TS that I have no mind-reading ability at all.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
Certainly possible, but the very first thing to check will be the over-current settings and the under-voltage shutdown setting. I have a battery powered drill that does exactly the same thing when the battery is low. And given that the TS has made no mention of what those settings are, it makes sense to check that first. It is clear that the TS is not an EE, and also clear that we do not have enough information to do more than make guesses.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,167
MisterBill2, even cheap junk on Amazon can. Maybe time to upgrade your clamp-on?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXDW677
For the very few times that need to actually measure any higher DC amps I use a 100 amp shunt and my Beckman 4 1/2 digit meter. Known accuracy and not affected by external magnetic fields. And I don't need to deal with any junk equipment that is so fragile that it breaks if somebody looks at it funny.
Besides that, a beginner is not likely to have such a device.
In addition, the suggestion was given to assist the TS, not any other purpose.
 

Thread Starter

seayaker

Joined Jan 27, 2009
74
You're right the prop was a little big but I had a smaller one 3D printed and it still would shut down after running about 10 seconds. If this were triggered by temp. in the ESC it wouldn't come back on right away. as soon as it stops I throttle down and it comes back immediately. I have been through all the settings, the LVC is off. I built the battery so I don't know what the C rating would be but there are 96 cells, 6 series and 16 parallel, all the cells test good. If a single 18650 is 2.6 amp hours. x 16 should be over 40 ah. A single 18650 C rate is 1 but how do they add up in a pack?
I believe this just isn't the right motor and maybe should look for something else. It has way more speed than I need and not enough torque and I don't want to gear it down. I saw on another forum they said it has 27kg of thrust at 7000rpm and 2500wt of power. Seams like it should work.
I'm trying to find another sensor less 24 volt, BLDC motor of similar size (3'' dia or less) that could put out as much ]torque as a 40 lb thrust trolling motor. Any suggestions where to look?
 
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