The motor in the link is claimed to run 25,000 to 30,000 RPM! That is screaming! Probably not with a 7 inch rop, nor even a 4 inch prop. That looks like a different sort of application.

The link shows the TS's motor, which is quoted as a 360kv rating (360 rpm/ volt). So a little over 8000 rpm at 24volt.!

 

I still would like to know exactly what is telling the ESC to shut down after 10 sec. Even with the 7'' prop it starts and has plenty of torque then shuts down. I can immediately put it in reverse or forward and it will go again. It's only drawing 2 amps and the voltage drop is .5 v I had a water pump on but no way is it a heat issue. It has to be something that tells it, as the demand for more amps increases it will be to much and shuts down. but It shouldn't be at that point.

 

Possibly it is not a heat issue but a cooling system issue if the controller does not see enough water flow. It would do that before anything had a chance to get hot. And I still suggest for a test, setting the forawrd power limitto perhaps 50% and seeing what happens. That may provide a clue as to what is not right.

 

Can I make the assumption that the motor works ok when out of water? I still think the prop is too large for the motor speed, and/or maybe the pitch is too large. I'm still puzzled by the low 2 Amp current draw you're measuring, a 0.5v voltage drop for 2 Amp load doesn't seem right at all. I feel that the real current is far higher, and the ESC is shutting down by overload. Thus it's fine as soon as you restart it.I use this, it shows max current drawn, max watts and cycles between actual battery volts and minimum volts.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...D=42854&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics

 

Can I make the assumption that the motor works ok when out of water? I still think the prop is too large for the motor speed, and/or maybe the pitch is too large. I'm still puzzled by the low 2 Amp current draw you're measuring, a 0.5v voltage drop for 2 Amp load doesn't seem right at all. I feel that the real current is far higher, and the ESC is shutting down by overload. Thus it's fine as soon as you restart it.I use this, it shows max current drawn, max watts and cycles between actual battery volts and minimum volts.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...D=42854&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics

I used the exact same one as this guy in the video and got the exact same result

Once again, I tried all the settings, ALL OF THEM!!! Several times. And once again it is not a heat issue, the,,,,, ESC doesn't know if water is moving through the tubes. It only knows when something gets hot.

 

Interesting video. The motor does seem efficient 'just' spinning the prop. Maybe the ESC is suspect. It's probably the cheapest part to swop out to try. Know anyone you can beg one from?

 

So, I cut the prop down to 3'' and got it to work. With the prop in a tub of water it gets up to speed. I ran it for a few minutes at almost full throttle, it was drawing 20 amps and climbing, voltage drop still negotiable. Nothing even gets warm. The speed is ridicules! I didn't think that tiny prop could have that much power. It still shuts down sometimes, if I throttle down and then up again it will either take off at hyper speed or shut down. The question for me is still what is making the supposed 300 continuous amp ESC shut down when its only drawing 2 amps? I'm guessing with a bigger prop, it somehow calculates the demand for amps will be more than it can deliver. I wish I knew how the ESC determines that so I could look for one that doesn't. I think the ESC should be rated closer to 30 amps. I guess they just pull these numbers out of there U NO Whats.

 

If this thing is powerful enough to push a kayak, I would think it would have splashed all the water out of your bathtub in seconds.

Bob

 

If this thing is powerful enough to push a kayak, I would think it would have splashed all the water out of your bathtub in seconds.

Bob

It is obvious that this was not a bathtub operation.

 

You’re right, he said tub, not bathtub.

So, I cut the prop down to 3'' and got it to work. With the prop in a tub of water it gets up to speed.

My comment still applies unless it was much larger than a bathtub.

Bob

Bob

 

So, I cut the prop down to 3'' and got it to work. With the prop in a tub of water it gets up to speed. I ran it for a few minutes at almost full throttle, it was drawing 20 amps and climbing, voltage drop still negotiable. Nothing even gets warm. The speed is ridicules! I didn't think that tiny prop could have that much power. It still shuts down sometimes, if I throttle down and then up again it will either take off at hyper speed or shut down. The question for me is still what is making the supposed 300 continuous amp ESC shut down when its only drawing 2 amps? I'm guessing with a bigger prop, it somehow calculates the demand for amps will be more than it can deliver. I wish I knew how the ESC determines that so I could look for one that doesn't. I think the ESC should be rated closer to 30 amps. I guess they just pull these numbers out of there U NO Whats.

The motor draws 2 Amps out of water, with the prop in the water it draws upwards of 20 Amps, so the answer to your question is the ESC doesn't shut down when it draws 2 Amps, it shuts down because the original prop made the motor draw too much current and the ESC shut down to protect itself.
Or the other possibility is that the excessive current draw with the original prop pulled the battery voltage down and the ESC terminated operation to protect the battery. Either possibility would be resettable by closing then opening the throttle.
Can you control the ramp up speed of the motor? It may be that by accelerating the motor too quickly will cause the initial current to be too high.

 

The motor draws 2 Amps out of water, with the prop in the water it draws upwards of 20 Amps, so the answer to your question is the ESC doesn't shut down when it draws 2 Amps, it shuts down because the original prop made the motor draw too much current and the ESC shut down to protect itself.
Or the other possibility is that the excessive current draw with the original prop pulled the battery voltage down and the ESC terminated operation to protect the battery. Either possibility would be resettable by closing then opening the throttle.
Can you control the ramp up speed of the motor? It may be that by accelerating the motor too quickly will cause the initial current to be too high.

post #32 shows all the settings, I have the start up at 60% this works best, It's not the battery, I can draw at least 75 amps from the battery. The ESC should not shut down, even with the bigger prop. If it started to draw 20 or 30 amps I could understand but that doesn't happen. Anyway I'm getting another ESC.

 

I suggest buying from a supplier that is able to offer actual customer suppoert, in stead of from a marketer who knows nothing at all about the prduct

 

What was the final solution to this problem. Just curious. Ta