You added a diode? Could you post an image of that so I can take a look?Looks good. I added a diode to turn off the pwm at the end and hooked it up to the +12.
How about just a dpst switch on the coil to switch it in and out.
You added a diode? Could you post an image of that so I can take a look?Looks good. I added a diode to turn off the pwm at the end and hooked it up to the +12.
How about just a dpst switch on the coil to switch it in and out.
Sorry, been a little busy. Seems a guard rail jumped in front of the golf cart my wife was driving. Nothing serious, just had to get it going again.Just added the diode... but I sincerely fail to understand what its function is... the waveform looks exactly the same to me. Could you please elaborate on this?
Also, look what I did with the value of R23 (the one added to U3 for hysteresis), I found a way to make it vary over time to see what its effects are like during the sim.
I also tweaked V7, to see how sensitive to variations in voltage the circuit is, and it seems like it's passing the stability test with flying colors.
And finally, I adjusted the value during time of V1 to more accurately simulate what the original waveform looks like.
The valve is an on/off valve, and is definitely not proportional. I'm pretty sure those negative blips are cause by the coil being shut down for a brief moment to keep heat at a minimum.I still see no purpose in those four negative voltage blips towards the end of the plateau? They don't last long enough to cause the valve to close. You may have said earlier, but I'm presuming the valve is an on/off type rather than proportional?
I doubt it... my guess is that the system is carefully measuring the coil's resistance, and hence inferring its temperature... and feeding bleeps here and there to minimize power.Hmm. Would just a few % average current reduction make much difference to the coil temperature? Could the system be sensing the response to those blips to detect if the coil is actually connected and operating correctly?
@Alec_t, I'm a fool... I think I might have dismissed your very valuable observation too soon...Hmm. Would just a few % average current reduction make much difference to the coil temperature? Could the system be sensing the response to those blips to detect if the coil is actually connected and operating correctly?
Yes, it's looking a lot more like the original waveform... I wonder why the sim's not able to reach the initial 120VDC peak pulse.OK, I think we got it now.
Here is what I did.
Changed R24 to 1 ohm. This puts the +12 and the +120 thru the big resistor. It also lets the coil voltage go below ground before it is clamped.
Then I moved the top of the pot to the regulated +5 so the low current didn't vary with the 12 volts.
Changed R20 to 30k to drop the high current pulse.
Changed R23 to 27K to lower the pwm frequency to be closer to your pictures.
It seems to run well with between 9 and 15 volts on the plus 12 and 90 to 150 volts on the 120 volts. This makes me wonder what voltage the 120 volt caps are. I had forgotten we generated the 120 from the 12.
PS left both voltages low in the sim.
Yup... I'm guessing the blips are activated when a threshold is reached on the current... Look at how the yellow trace very quickly increases in value and then decelerates, and after a very finely tuned value the negative blip is triggered.Odd. One graph shows 4 negative blips on the plateau, the other shows only 2?
Yeah... I'm not as electro-savyy as you are, but I've noticed that anomaly too... could it be that there's a transistor circuit trying to feed constant current to the coil? Also... if you pay close attention to the mid part of the waveform, the down notches reach almost exactly -7.5V, while the top tends to stabilize at around 5V... could it be that the supply is not 12V ?The one thing that still troubles me is best seen in the second picture. When the voltage is above ground it is asking for more current. So even though the current is still well above 3.6 amps the circuit is still asking for current. This signal appears to be analog in that the voltage slowly rises. It then seems like it switches to pwm and the pulses come on and off around the 3.6 amp level.
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