OK, here's a shot at adding a PWM to the reverser/timer. I didn't spec' Q2 and Q3, because of the unknown motor current.

Ken

 

where does the electricty start from in schematics like these? (dont answer if you dont want, im just asking a n00b question)

 

Managed to get a relay logic solution out this A.M. a return PB was added in case of power down mid operation.
The ebay PWM will operate at 10amps.
Untested.
Max.

 

The 12V power will be supplied to the points labeled "+12V" and "Com". These are the (battery +) and (battery-) connections.
If you are a very green noob, you might be better off going with Max's approach of wiring together off the shelf relays, and timer and PWM modules.

Ken

 

I noticed one change needed, the cycle will automatically repeat, so I can make a mod for man start every time.
Max.

 

I noticed one change needed, the cycle will automatically repeat, so I can make a mod for man start every time.
Max.

okej, yes it would be nice if you can do that.

 

Updated the PDF.
I believe that will do it
Max.

 

Updated the PDF.
I believe that will do it
Max.

First of all i need to say thank you everybody for supporting me with this, i have posted the same topic on other forums but didnt get any help.

im not so god att logic/ladder diagrams so are they any possibility you could draw a cabling diagram for me,( cabling diagram for dummies) if its not to big work for you

the timer i got is like these one:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Best...me-Delay-Switch-12V-For-Robot/1677057391.html

could this pwm work?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-1...-Speed-fan-Control-PWM-HHO-RC/2031525084.html

would this relays work?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pack-of-...275?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ade99bd1b
thank you
Micke

 

The relays should work, the PWM controller is a little over kill at 60a! But should work.
The timer needs to be delay on operate, the one you show is Interval On.
Max.

 

im nt so god att logic/ladder diagrams so are they any possibility you could draw a cabling diagram for me,( cabling diagram for dummies) if its not to big work for you

Micke

What you do is to mount all the separate components, and then taking one rung at a time, take a wire to each connection shown, marking off on the print when it is complete, and progress down the page, also if you have a labeler of some kind, identify the conductors by wire number at each termination point, it will help if you have to trouble shoot.
Max.

 

What you do is to mount all the separate components, and then taking one rung at a time, take a wire to each connection shown, marking off on the print when it is complete, and progress down the page, also if you have a labeler of some kind, identify the conductors by wire number at each termination point, it will help if you have to trouble shoot.
Max.

Yes i have thinking and i think i know how to do the wiring

One question. How should the limits be like ? Would these work ?
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1908990457.html

 

Limits that have Com-N.C. - N.O should work, they appear to.
If you notice, the L.H. LS is one switch and use N.C. for the FWD dir and N.O. for the timer.
Max.

 

Limits that have Com-N.C. - N.O should work, they appear to.
If you notice, the L.H. LS is one switch and use N.C. for the FWD dir and N.O. for the timer.
Max.

Okey thanks

/ micke

 

Limits that have Com-N.C. - N.O should work, they appear to.
If you notice, the L.H. LS is one switch and use N.C. for the FWD dir and N.O. for the timer.
Max.

The push button you have added is it a one like these?
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/331398440145?nav=SEARCH

Must the pushbuttons for the start be wired together ?

 

The switch should work, I prefer the Telemecanique styles, they used to be prevalent on ebay, but don't appear anymore?
The start PB has two distinct contacts but if you swap over the position of the Stop and Start PB you only need one common DC+ conductor, i.e. both commons connected saving one conductor.
Max.

 

Hi

I have now wired all things up and it works great I had a little problem with the pwm controller but i got a new one and now it works fine,
the old pwm controller made the screwdriver lose all the torque.
Instead of the start button i use a remote controlled 12v relay and it works fine easy to vary the shooting distance when i can start the track by remote

A short movie so you can look att the function.

And thanks for all your help guys, now i can sit in the backyard with a beer and shoot with my airgun all the vacation long

 

I was thinking of keeping it simple, without the need to construct any custom S.S. logic etc.
A potentiometer alone is not an ideal way to control a DC motor.
Depending on what the motor current is, there are PWM controllers on ebay for $5.00.
You would need a timer, two (Fwd/Rev) relays, two limit switches and the speed control.
A couple of P.B.'s.
I can put a circuit together if needed.
Max.

The real brute force & ignorance way involves another cable strung across.

Mount a toggle switch with a long lever at each end and string the levers together, fit the trolley with a bit of dowel at each end to push the switch lever when it gets there.

IIRC: One of the switches is actually redundant apart from providing the indent action at its end to keep the wire taut. You simply have one of the switches as a 2-pole change over, cross wired so it reverses the polarity to a DC motor.