did you ever get anywhere with this Chris? I'm in the exact same boat. Same model, manufacturer says they won't talk to me because I'm not a technician, dealer says it can be done but complicated and doesn't recommend, I just want to add a damn manual switch because hunting for the fob sucks, and you can't relock after you unlock.

I've tried a million different configurations trying to bypass the onboard relays and use regular relays, all sorts of things. I keep blowing fuses from backfeed when adding just a generic 5 pin switch and can't get anything to work. It's driving me crazy. If you got some answers I'd love to hear from you. Hit me up at airbender 9273 at the g's of mail dot com if you wouldn't mind.

The chris person apparently created an account on this forum just to ask this one question and never came back. I doubt he will come back with an answer now.

But maybe we can help. With a couple of DPDT buttons, we don't need to know how the lock module works specifically. No going back and forth, check this, check that, try to make sense of nonsense drawings, etc. We know the locks have two wires and you switch polarity on them to actuate the lock, and that's all we really need to know in order to implement a sort of "brute force" approach. This takes the lock module completely out of the picture any time you press one of your manual buttons. Any time you're not pressing one of the buttons, your lock module can do its thing.

Please accept this toddler drawing to illustrate the concept.

The green wires represent constant power from the battery (through a fuse, not shown). The blue wires represent the normal/intended path from the controller directly to the lock actuator, but we've spliced a couple of DPDT switches into the circuit.

 

Certainly this would work, but there will be a challenge in getting those switches in a style suitable for a car.
That is why I suggest adding isolation diodes and controlling the present relays with a simple switch. Also, there would be a whole lot less wiring involved, and none of the wiring would be in series with the existing wiring, except for one diode to each relay.

 

Certainly this would work, but there will be a challenge in getting those switches in a style suitable for a car.
That is why I suggest adding isolation diodes and controlling the present relays with a simple switch. Also, there would be a whole lot less wiring involved, and none of the wiring would be in series with the existing wiring, except for one diode to each relay.

I understand why you suggest this and I believe it to be the more elegant solution; your method is how I would do it myself. However, the degree to which the provided schematics suck ass, requires an undue amount of educated investigation, which proved unfeasible to be carried out by uneducated proxy from across the internet already. I doubt it would go differently this time. So I thought the shotgun a more effective tool. The lock/unlock buttons could be simple like these. Or those buttons could be hidden behind a rocker that looks more appropriate as door lock/unlock switch. I could not find an appropriate 12 pin rocker switch.

 

I understand why you suggest this and I believe it to be the more elegant solution; your method is how I would do it myself. However, the degree to which the provided schematics suck ass, requires an undue amount of educated investigation, which proved unfeasible to be carried out by uneducated proxy from across the internet already. I doubt it would go differently this time. So I thought the shotgun a more effective tool. The lock/unlock buttons could be simple like these. Or those buttons could be hidden behind a rocker that looks more appropriate as door lock/unlock switch. I could not find an appropriate 12 pin rocker switch.

My suggestion will only need one three position, center off, momentary action singe pole double throw switch.
I can describe the circuit in words so that from that it can be implemented. But first I will need to recall the numbers of the coil connections on those relays. That part has slipped away from me right now.

 

My suggestion will only need one three position, center off, momentary action singe pole double throw switch.
I can describe the circuit in words so that from that it can be implemented. But first I will need to recall the numbers of the coil connections on those relays. That part has slipped away from me right now.

Honestly I wouldn't bother. I think we are wasting time on this yet again. It seems this newer newcomer posted without any intent to come back, just dropped an email address in hopes the previous one hit wonder would reach out to him and then bugged out.

 

Honestly I wouldn't bother. I think we are wasting time on this yet again. It seems this newer newcomer posted without any intent to come back, just dropped an email address in hopes the previous one hit wonder would reach out to him and then bugged out.

That is not the case at all. I fully intend to be here a lot as I am learning through this journey. I am currently trying to configure a negative switch application using two 5 pin relays coming off the alarm and a negative trigger through the manual switch. I appreciate all the feedback and I am taking it in and learning. Glad to be part of the community.

 

My suggestion will only need one three position, center off, momentary action singe pole double throw switch.
I can describe the circuit in words so that from that it can be implemented. But first I will need to recall the numbers of the coil connections on those relays. That part has slipped away from me right now.

Are you just talking about regular automotive relays where 85, and 86 energize the coil, 87 is NO, 87A Is NC, and 30 is common output? Thats what I'm trying now bypassing the onboard relays from the keyless entry brain and just using their input pulse to trigger the relays.

 

That is not the case at all. I fully intend to be here a lot as I am learning through this journey. I am currently trying to configure a negative switch application using two 5 pin relays coming off the alarm and a negative trigger through the manual switch. I appreciate all the feedback and I am taking it in and learning. Glad to be part of the community.

Great! I am happy to be wrong in this case.

 

Great! I am happy to be wrong in this case.

and forgive my terrible drawings but here are the two approaches I am doing to see if they will work. I'm not entirely sure if the pulses from my alarm are negative or positive because multimeter readings were terrible so I'm going to try both a positive trigger and a negative trigger.

I also gave some thought to using a diode to stop feed from the manual switch in line somewhere but I don't think that's possible because of the need to reverse polarity to the actuators for lock and unlock.

Anyone have thoughts on these? I'd love to hear.

 

Are you just talking about regular automotive relays where 85, and 86 energize the coil, 87 is NO, 87A Is NC, and 30 is common output? Thats what I'm trying now bypassing the onboard relays from the keyless entry brain and just using their input pulse to trigger the relays.

To do this you will need to know how the relay gets switched. There will be a transistor inside the assembly and it will switch power to the relay coil. It will be either between +12V and the relay, or between the relay and GND. You need to figure out which case it is, and put your switch/button in parallel with this transistor.

 

To do this you will need to know how the relay gets switched. There will be a transistor inside the assembly and it will switch power to the relay coil. It will be either between +12V and the relay, or between the relay and GND. You need to figure out which case it is, and put your switch/button in parallel with this transistor.

see my last post with terrible drawings and your thoughts are appreciated.

 

see my last post with terrible drawings and your thoughts are appreciated.

I will chime in later this evening. This will require some amount of study and I'm not up to the task at the moment.

 

I will chime in later this evening. This will require some amount of study and I'm not up to the task at the moment.

Just to follow up. I did it just like the schematic I drew labeled negative trigger and it all worked like a charm. Learned a lot through this one. Thanks to anyone who offered help.