Dryer repair:

Thread Starter

Hansen

Joined May 3, 2015
30
I bought a used electric dryer that doesn’t turn on, nothing (only the light inside works). When it is connected to my 240v line I get 120v on ea side when measuring from ground. * there is no neutral, just 2 120v and one ground)
When I hit the start button, L1 goes to 0 V and L2 goes to 240 V. Is that right?


I switched the wires to a different circuit breaker and the same thing happens.
Notes: fuse is good on the dryer and the door switch works. The momentary push start button seems to work although it has 4 wires on it an the 2 blue wires beep when I do a continuity test.

Make: Whirlpool Model: WED4616FW0
 
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ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
1,182
There is likely two thermal fuses in the dryer. I did not look up your model. One fuse on the heating coil and one the fan. It is typical for one or both to pop if the temperature is too high. (plugged vent line)
 

Thread Starter

Hansen

Joined May 3, 2015
30
There is likely two thermal fuses in the dryer. I did not look up your model. One fuse on the heating coil and one the fan. It is typical for one or both to pop if the temperature is too high. (plugged vent line)
I can’t wrap my mind around why , L1 goes to 0 V and L2 goes to 240 V
 

ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
1,182
Test with ohm meter to see if this is open.
1605147014649.png
You also need to test if this is open
1605147085436.png
The repair shop should have the parts or get them on line.
If both parts are open you need to test see if the heating coil is OK. It should not have resistance to chasse. It should show a low resistance across the coil. You can open up that compartment and look at the coil.
 
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Thread Starter

Hansen

Joined May 3, 2015
30
Test with ohm meter to see if this is open.
View attachment 222034
You also need to test if this is open
View attachment 222035
The repair shop should have the parts or get them on line.
If both parts are open you need to test see if the heating coil is OK. It should not have resistance to chasse. It should show a low resistance across the coil. You can open up that compartment and look at the coil.
These parts are both good, (closed).
 

Thread Starter

Hansen

Joined May 3, 2015
30
Ground is not connected. Or the N is not connected.

Did you change the cord? The wiring has two options. L1, L2, N, gnd = 4 wire. or L1, L2, (N-gnd) = 3 wire.
It’s a used dryer with out a cord. I put on a three prong cord.
My condo has a three prong plug L1, L2, & ground. No neutral.
Should it work this way theoretically without a neutral?
The plug ground is on there tight.
 

ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
1,182
It could be the "ground" wire is not connected inside the wall. But I think you have 3/4 wire problem. See pictures below.
1605192990547.png
1605193025725.png
Most dryers have the motor and heating coils fromL1 to L2. The only thing that is from Lx to N is the light bulb and the timer.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
22,855
Check items such as timer, drum motor, etc to see if it shows 120v or 240v, if 120v then you need the 120v-N-120v 3wire + gnd outlet.
Max.
 

Lo_volt

Joined Apr 3, 2014
164
I'll second what MaxHeadRoom says. Look inside to see if any of the internal motors are 120 volt.

I'll also add that I don't think NEC code allows 3 wire connections for dryers any more. It should be 4 including the neutral. You may need to bring in an electrician to update the outlet.
 

ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
1,182
I'll also add that I don't think NEC code allows 3 wire connections for dryers any more. It should be 4 including the neutral. You may need to bring in an electrician to update the outlet.
Many old houses are 3 wire 220 for appliances. This is to old code. My house is this way. The dryer come with instructions as how to wire it. See post #10.
Check items such as timer, drum motor, etc to see if it shows 120v or 240v
It is very hard to find a 110V full sized dryer. Whirlpool Model: WED4616FW0 =220V
I have sold mini dryers that are 110/220 and stackable washer/dryer that will run at 110 but only dry on low at 110.
----------------------------
Start over. When you turn on the machine L1=N and L2=220 This can only happen if N is not connected. You might get shocked because (depending if the 'strap' is connected) the case might be at 110V. Be care full!

I think there are two likely problems.
1) your wire is wrong. See post #10.
2) the 220 plugin has a broken ground/N wire.
I have been here before.
 

Thread Starter

Hansen

Joined May 3, 2015
30
Many old houses are 3 wire 220 for appliances. This is to old code. My house is this way. The dryer come with instructions as how to wire it. See post #10.

It is very hard to find a 110V full sized dryer. Whirlpool Model: WED4616FW0 =220V
I have sold mini dryers that are 110/220 and stackable washer/dryer that will run at 110 but only dry on low at 110.
----------------------------
Start over. When you turn on the machine L1=N and L2=220 This can only happen if N is not connected. You might get shocked because (depending if the 'strap' is connected) the case might be at 110V. Be care full!

I think there are two likely problems.
1) your wire is wrong. See post #10.
2) the 220 plugin has a broken ground/N wire.
I have been here before.
I don’t have a strap, it must be internally grounded between the neutral and the chassis, because the continuity test shows that. Maybe I’ll add a strap.
In the wall, it only has L1, L2, and a ground, no neutral.
If it’s the ground, then I don’t know why it would give me 220 V from L2 to ground when I hit the start button. I would assume it would be 0 V from L2 to ground.
 

Thread Starter

Hansen

Joined May 3, 2015
30
The neutral and GND (chassis) should never be connected together at any point but the panel.
Max.
But I assume every three wire plug on an old house is L1, L2, and ground, correct? If so, then In order to use a 220v dryer, I have to run a neutral from the panel?
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
22,855
There are dryer models that are, or were solely 240v, but most now require a 240-N-240 for the 120v control circuitry.
Often the timer label has its voltage marked on it which is a clue.
The GND is just a safety protection feature
Max.
 

ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
1,182
The neutral and GND (chassis) should never be connected together at any point but the panel.
Shure, except dryers and stoves in old houses connect N and GND together. (N & GND of the appliance)
a) Old houses do not have a ground at all. Older house have two prong plugs with no ground. Then some one replaces the 2 prong plugs with 3 prong plugs and there is go ground wire so the do not connect the ground or they connect it to N because that is the closest thing.
b) Even in houses with ground wires, for decades stoves and dryers were installed with L, N, L and no ground. (or L, gnd, L) In appliances ( US/Canada 220V appliances there is almost no current in N/gnd) Only the light bulbs and timer run on 110V. That is why a very small wire is used for N/gnd.
c) Now days you should have three heavy wires for L,N,L and a light ground wire. (again almost no current in N)

I don’t have a strap
Clearly the chasse is floating. If your meter is from Line to Floating Chasse it will read strangely.
But I assume every three wire plug on an old house is L1, L2, and ground, correct? If so, then In order to use a 220v dryer, I have to run a neutral from the panel?
No. At the panel or some where the N and GND are connected together. (should be only one place) There are millions of dryers running with a (N/gnd) wire.
--------------------------Just looked at my panel. 1950 ----------
Two ovens and one stove top and one dryer. All have two large black wires + non insulated "ground wire".
At the panel all grounds and Neutrals are connected together.
At the dryer and kitchen appliances I followed the instructions and "strapped" Ground and Neutral together. (at the appliance not at the house)
---------------------
Strap the dryer like the manual shows.
-------------------
You might not have ground connected at the wall plug. You can test by connecting a 110VAC bulb from L1 to (gnd/N) then try it again L2 to (gnd/N) This will prove all three wires are intact. (do not connect bulb from L1 to L2)
------
Old 3 wire wall socket. Black and Red are line 1 & 2, Non insulated wire is N/ground.
1605244191616.png
 
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ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
1,182
When I hit the start button, L1 goes to 0 V and L2 goes to 240 V. Is that right?
Your meter does not really know where ground is. It only reads the voltage across the probes. So when the meter reports L1 to Ground = 0V It only tells you there is no voltage difference. I think L1 does not equal 0V but ground is at 110V.

Is there a ground from a different circuit nearby you can get to. (from a 110v plugin) Use a copper water pipe as ground. The point is I want a meter reading from a known ground and not that outlet. I know I said this several time but your ground is not connected or poorly connected.
 
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