Creative Inspire Sound system T3030

Thread Starter


Joined Jan 3, 2010
Thanks a lot R!f@@.

1.The chip you have shown seems to be like the one I sent you.
2. Shorting the switch should be fine for me.
3. Length of the wire should not be a big problem. Please cut them to a length thats convenient for you to work with.

And yes I did send you some old ICs and some from Maxim used for fast battery charges.

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Joined Apr 2, 2009
1.The chip you have shown seems to be like the one I sent you.
The chip I showed is what was already soldered. The second one was desoldered by u. I was asking if it was the same no.
Do you have the chip so U can confirm the no. ?

And yes I did send you some old ICs and some from Maxim used for fast battery charges.

The ITT ones u sent. I can't seem to locate the data for it. Do u know what those are by any chance?


Joined Apr 2, 2009
Gopal.. U sent the heatsink unattached as a result it got into my Junk Vault.

Now tht I need it, I can't seem to locate it. :confused:

I found one. It matches to the PCB sink slots and only one Audio amp chip.

Confirm tht only one chip is mounted on the sink.

If not that I have a big problem :eek:

Thread Starter


Joined Jan 3, 2010
Hello R!f@@,

As far as I remember only the audio amplifier chip U3 had heat sink. Other two chips are for volume control were not attached to any heat sink.


Joined Apr 2, 2009
I wonder how u manage to do this ? :D

Due to missing glass pieces I cannot put the zener back together.
Basically What I am saying is I dunno what the heck the value is :confused:

So. We need to find out.

Gopal, I need to know the transformer secondary voltage.
With that I can figure out a zener value.

And ummm!! I think u replaced the zener resistor value wrong. The resistor there was too low for a zener series resistor.
I bet that's why u had to go thru the whole deal. :D

Any ways it's no problem. Just gimme the transformer secondary voltage.
then I can go on and do the things that I do.

Oh yea!! Had a tough time figuring out and put the remote wires in proper order. 3 wires were broken and I think u made a boo boo there too.
It's done now...No worries.

Reply ASAP


Joined Apr 2, 2009
Since this week end for u guys I doubt any of you will be here.

And me got nothing else so thought I will hunt for the data sheets so I can figure out an approximate value for the zener.

I could not located any data for the amp chip TDA7378. I figured it is a Stereo power amp driving two satellite speakers and the another of the same no. in bridge mode driving the sub woofer. As only one is mounted on the heatsink.

I have TDA7293 & TDA7294. But these are not compatible with 7378.

I will see if I can get an IC locally.

But before that I need to get this thing powered up. Data search tells me that a 12V zener would be fine so I soldered and fixed the regulator but still no power. :eek:

Guess what ? The bloody cable has broken wire some where in between. Took a while for me to figure out where. The result is not pleasent as I had to destroy the jack.. see below :D

The Male part is cleaned and the wires removed. Had to go through hell to get those trouble some plastic mold out.

Further checking of the wire revealed that it had broken wires at both ends.
This happen due to usage, the disconnecting and the twisting around results in broken cable and shields.

All that color figuring out for nothing..God I hate these kinda things...!

Anyways the connector is now done and it is now drying. I mean the glue. I had make the solder area of the jack at least robust, so a pen cap and some resin that I had came pretty handy. It will take a few hours for the epoxy to harden.

I think the broken cable was the real problem u had...and not knowing where to look made it worse. :D.

No worries..any one would have done what u did.
Still I like to know the transformer voltage....

Tata for now.


Joined Nov 24, 2008
I'll bet that TDA7378 was a special version/numbering of another amplifier just for Creative (or whatever company builds their worthless trash). ST don't have any record of it and they are usually pretty good at keeping data sheets around.


Joined Apr 2, 2009
It speaks.

Had a tough time with the cable though. It shud not be a problem for u. It would withstand heavy jerking.

First I like to thank you for the above member. For the valuable info given. It seems I have misjudged the chip completely and with out the diagram I would infidelity be running in circles. As this chip is a quad Amp. The diagram provided all the info I need to finish this.

So here's to skrol

Gopal :

Have some pointers tht u should look out for.
First see the remote picture below

U shud be careful when u assemble the remote as the wires are delicate. Cut the cable tie only when u are ready to put the remote covers. Other wise I fear u might break the wire from the solder joint. I have put some glue though but won't help if too much twisting is done.

The power switch is there for u to find a way to put it in or use it. Like to tell u the power switch does not completely power off the unit but it just puts the TDA chip in standby mode. So taking the switch out and bypassing the power will only help in reducing the power the stby power a little and turning off the green led. Nothing else. If power is by passed remember to keep the volume all the way down. Having the volume any where other than the minimum position will always result in pop sound coming from speaker as the PC is turned off or on.


I have marked the places in red squares is of primary concern when you put the unit back together. Having those areas open will result in annoying bass reproduction as the holes will let air in and out which results in rattling bass. I advise you to cover the area marked with silicon and seal the marked with in the square completely. See to it there is no way air can go in through the Jacks. U shud let the silicon solidify before powering it up. If you can hear rattling when u play good bass songs then u shud check the silicon again.

Last but not the least

The Chip u have taken was the Left Right volume controller (M51132L), which is same as the Bass Volume controller. So to test the board I have switched them and left it there. The bass input is taken from the LR chip. Which is an advantage by the way cause without the bass controller the only thing u cannot control is the bass volume from the remote only.
In simple terms u cannot cut off bass without that chip (M51132L).

Without it (now) u can hear bass and the bass control in the remote won't have any effect. But still u can control bass with in any windows app.
So it is up to u to solder a new one if u choose to ( cause to tell u the truth, Maldives have no stinkin good component resellers {in descent terms, it ain't available here }).
Just in case u might confuse with what to buy data sheet is attached.

And should u chose to solder a new one, be careful on pin orientation.
Second u should desolder the temporary by pass jumpers that I have soldered in order to by pass the input output of the bass volume controller.

I guess tht's all u need to know.

And I need to know is the shipping address ( PM me ).

Next is for me to find a suitable shipping container so it wud reach you intact.

By the way , this thing produces descent sound unlike most of you guys say.

Gopal remember not to use anything to scrape off the remaining glue at the jacks. This might lead to component damage. The glue is just hot gun glue. U can use a hair dryer or anything similar to melt away the glue. I used my hot gun to liquify the unwanted glue. So u can do the same. Scrapping will damage the component base


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Joined Nov 24, 2008
Creative's "worthless trash" looks pretty good. It costs about double as much as it is worth.
And I thought your standards were higher than that Audioguru!?

Phenolic-paper boards, hot-melt glue instead of properly specified and mounted jacks and controls (of course the garbage boards don't help), hand soldered by chimps, evidently not designed to be serviceable, sub-standard parts ... how far do I need to go with this. That ... thing... is disgusting.

I've paid good money for Creative's stuff in the past, twice (shame on me) and been utterly disappointed, twice. What's more, their support is the worst I have ever encountered. Ever! I vowed after my 2nd purchase of a worthless piece of junk from them I would never buy anything bearing their name again.

The last item was 20GB Zen. It never worked properly from the start. They made 2 pitiful attempts at firmware upgrades that were so difficult to install that their own support folks could not get the process right. A bunch of their cutomers, myself included, wrote up a working process for the firmware upgrade, but they refused to publish it and told us in no uncertain terms the device was considered dead as far as they were concerned and they would do nothing further for their customers. That was 1 year after this $449 device was released!!

Worthless junk!!

@Rifaa. Your tenacity is amazing. The fact that you spent years working through this speaks volumes about your character. You rock, dude!! Just amazing you got this done.

@skrol. Where on earth did you get information on this chip?


Joined Dec 20, 2007
I had 5 or 6 Creative Nomad Jukebox Zen MP3 players with a 6GB hard drive. They were "unrepairable" returns from a sound and video equipment store. I took parts from each to fix one and used it for a few years.


Joined Apr 25, 2012
i happened to chance upon this thread when i dug out my i-trigue 3000 only to find the remote missing. just curious if its possible to build a remote for it using the info gathered from this thread??

i'm a newbie to circuits and all but am confident that i can do basic soldering and building a new wired control from scratch.

its using the same connector pin but im not sure if creative used the same pin out for this 2 models. any tips on how to check pin out on the amplifier?