I mentioned the dielectric grease. I've NEVER used it. Vaseline works fine for me. Used it for 50 years on light bubs (aquarium, outdoor, indoors - primarily bathroom and car.

I did not read carefully enough!

I have never tried vaseline, but my only warning would be that it is petroleum based, which is a no-no for some soft parts (rubber comes to mind). As far as I remember, the dielectric is silicone based. Historically, we always had a tube around for putting on automotive spark plug connections. I now see this sometimes being used on harsh environment industrial connectors.

 

I have never tried vaseline, but my only warning would be that it is petroleum based

What started it all is when, as a kid, I wanted an aquarium. The tank and company still exists and it did provide a woodworking and electronics project and I digress. The tank is in an ancient TV cabinet with casters. the electronics project involved a CA3059 triac controller, so the heater would turn on at zero crossings to eliminate RFI, Really cool chip.

Well, the florescent tank light manufacturer in their instructions said to use Vaseline (a.k.a Petroleum Jelly) on the pin ends of the tube. Worked. I applied it ever since. It sure beats light bulbs that for one reason or another detach from their bases and/or the base and the bulb corrode together. An aquarium is pretty wet. None of the stuff I used it on had rubber boots.

Greases and oils are weird. They are not created equal. I still don't have a low cost "impact hammer" grease.

 

Put the unit to somewhere dry, and wire the button to where you want.

DC- DC converter just put a diode and cap before it.

 

What started it all is when, as a kid, I wanted an aquarium. The tank and company still exists and it did provide a woodworking and electronics project and I digress. The tank is in an ancient TV cabinet with casters. the electronics project involved a CA3059 triac controller, so the heater would turn on at zero crossings to eliminate RFI, Really cool chip.

Well, the florescent tank light manufacturer in their instructions said to use Vaseline (a.k.a Petroleum Jelly) on the pin ends of the tube. Worked. I applied it ever since. It sure beats light bulbs that for one reason or another detach from their bases and/or the base and the bulb corrode together. An aquarium is pretty wet. None of the stuff I used it on had rubber boots.

Greases and oils are weird. They are not created equal. I still don't have a low cost "impact hammer" grease.

What part of an "impact hammer" - an actual hammer that you hold in your hand and hit things with should be kept free of grease as far as humanly possible.

 

What part of an "impact hammer" - an actual hammer that you hold in your hand and hit things with should be kept free of grease as far as humanly possible.

I rebuilt a used tool like this https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/demolition-hammers-11316evs-26682-p/ one and I used the recommended grease inside and a shank lubricant. Properties of the grease should be impact resistant, water resistant, low sliding friction and high temperature resistant. The latter for long term use.

I primarily bought it to dig a trench with a clay spade. It's great for digging stuff up in clay soil.

It was a fun re-build. Bosch has a re-build manual for the asking. The hardest part is removing the chuck. Since I got the manual AFTER I re-built it, I had to ask a local shop to remove the chuck for $20.00.

The grease here http://www.repairtoolparts.com/bosch-parts/bosch-11335k-parts/bosch-1615430010-grease-tube is about 1/3 what the normal price is.

This https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Multi-Purpose-Greases/Power-Hammer-Chisel-Grease.html would say it's a pretty goofy grease. it seems large quantities are available for use with really big hammers. e.g. air hammers, or ones that go on a back hoe. http://www.brit-lube.co.uk/premium-hammer-grease.html get the idea.

 

I rebuilt a used tool like this https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/demolition-hammers-11316evs-26682-p/ one and I used the recommended grease inside and a shank lubricant. Properties of the grease should be impact resistant, water resistant, low sliding friction and high temperature resistant. The latter for long term use.

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I'd go for molybdenum disulphide grease - its sold as high temperature car wheel bearing grease, molybdenum is a pretty good "friction modifier".

 

That sounds pretty reasonable with NLGI 2 properties. Thanks.