That's all right I couldn't confirm anything until Monday anyway and even then it's probably already going to be taken apart.

 

I’m headed that way anyway for the weekend.

What’s the rest of your 48v system? Can you go to 24v? You can get those alternators off the shelf so much easier. How much money do you have into that alternator?

 

28v 280 amp on eBay is only $275. More total wattage as the 90amp 56v you have now.

 

Oh I agree with you there I could run 2- 24 v alternators would solve my problem right now and I happen to have a balmar 24 V in stock that I was going to use couple years back when I was running 24 V never got around to it.
at the moment I don't have more than I don't know $200 in mine
But that's gonna rise sharply after next week
As always there's a lot of woulda coulda shoulda involved

 

Running 2 alternators in series is hard due to the case’s being grounded.

if you can go to 24v and want to walk away from the 48v alternator I’ll buy it off to so you can break even on it and get something that’ll be more reliable and less work.

 

Even if you get it going, what do you do when the regulator eventually blows? Now you have a system designed around a part you can’t replace.

 

Not that I wanted to but this is the route to go just kind of pricey but absolutely the most perfect way to do it. I researched all of that When I found it I couldn't just come up with a voltage regulator.
Oh and by the way I'm fairly certain there's another voltage regulator over in Poland but I couldn't find anybody who could speak Polish to help me out and their damn website wouldn't convert to English.
one of the Engineers at leece Neville sent me diagrams and instructions on how to get around the 48 V problem by adding a 40,000 KP diode if you want I can post those drawings as well

 

Yes I’ll take those drawings. I offered to buy yours just to tear it down so I can replicate it. Obviously I have the same issue you do. Once the regulator blows the options become few and far between.

there is another option, it requires two inverters though. The 48v alternator can run an inverter on its own. The 120 or 240v A/c can go to another inverter/charger. That inverter charger then charges the batteries. It’s a round about way but solves the regulator problem permanently. It’s actually the better option if you have anything besides lead acid batteries.

 

I’d rather buy two inverters than that regulator. If one inverter blows you have the other for emergency purposes. Whether it’s the alternator or batteries powering it. It’s a built in backup. 3am and one inverter blows just unplug it and plug the other in. As you already use Anderson plugs also you know how easy it is to rewire the system. With an inverter charger if the alternator blows you can also charge the batteries off shore power.

for $550 if that regulator blows you can’t charge the batteries no matter what. You need another $550 regulator. 3am and the batteries run down from a bad alternator you have nothing. 3am and the only inverter blows you have nothing.

 

Can you post that diagram you got?

 

I thought I'd already sent them but here they are again if I did

 

I thought I'd already sent them but here they are again if I did

OK brought the alternator home today it kicked a hard 56
The way your alternator is set up right now you'll be very lucky to get
49v and then it will run very hot.
You have to take the alternator apart remove the little capacitor diode thingy
And if you want to put it back together and at that point you will get 60A
If you put in the 2800 series rotor that comes in the 56v alternator
same alternator will kick 90+ possibly more
I'm not for sure but possibly it could depend on the 12 V voltage going in on the ignition switch side.and I should be able to raise
That voltage by a few volts
So I'll give you updates on how it does work since I haven't hooked it up yet
That's tomorrow's project definitely not this weekend we're gonna be seeing 108
which is not really out Outdoor weather to me .

 

The rotor doesn’t do anything when it comes to voltage or amperage. That’s the regulator and stator. All the rotor does is become a “dumb” electromagnet that does what it’s told. (As I understand) It sounds like there was a problem with the capacitor (not used in “A” revision of 4417jb or 4420jb only “B” revision) or rotor. Possibly the brushes weren’t making clean contact to the slip rings.

I don’t see how the rotor could cause an overheat, unless it’s defective. The defective capacitor definitely could.

Have you measured A/C voltage of the alternator?

 

I just know what the numbers read and that capacitor is set at 48 V as well on the inside of the alternator,I even got a confirmation from one of Leese neville's engineers
And on the rotor all I know is that the 4417 rotor corresponds with a 2500 series rotor and It put out less amps than the 56v router which is a 2800 Siri alternators And the voltage/amp difference that I stated before on the test bench. No tomorrow I'm gonna put it on and then move on to my next project

 

capacitors don’t have a “set voltage”

I’m glad you got yours working though, best of luck with your project.

 

Is that voltage suppressor with the upgrade in the drawing I sent you the last two drawings
Can you please take the time to go over to the manufacturer which is listed there as well you'll find out that what it does what it's values are and it is a set voltage Is and if need be I'll forward you the email from the engineer who told me it Hass to be removed
No matter actually when you go to use yours you will find out for yourself
that I was 100% correct on ol of this

 

It’s a capacitor, it’s not used in the “A” revision of the 48 or 56v alternators. And no capacitor has a voltage setting. Also I have the “A” revision, I don’t have the capacitor. Never did.

 

I’m still curious on what your A/C voltage reading is, if you ever want to check it.

 

Here’s an article on what the purpose of that capacitor is, and that’s why I’m curious about your A/C voltage reading.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-5/rectifier-filter-circuit/

 

All the rotor does is become a “dumb” electromagnet that does what it’s told

I don’t see how the rotor could cause an overheat, unless it’s defective.

If there are two different rotors for the different alternators that are physically the same size, the difference is probably the coil in the rotor. Using a small coil rotor to try and put out the higher voltage would mean that the rotor would have to be a higher voltage too. From what I know the rotor even on a 12V alternator doesn't see the full 12V but a fraction of the 12V depending on the systems need at any one time, that is how the regulator keeps the output in line with the need. More rotor voltage when more output is needed.