Hi,

Non-professional here seeking advice regarding: fixing outdoor LED lights.

Bought a LED lighting set up last year, but storms bent some of the wiring and exposed circuit board to water. Had professional strip wiring and wiring is now all safe - but can’t get the lights working which I believe is due to faulty transformer.

Spoke to provider who confirmed they don’t ship replacements so seeking advice re my options.

Confirmed with voltage tester than getting electric right up until the transformer but then no lights showing after there, will also be checking the whole line to where any potential breaks could be.

for the transformer, can anyone advise suitable options for me when it comes to sub out and replacements ?

 

Just a little bump if anyone can advise or if this should be in a different subforum

 

This Supply should work if space allows.

 

Thank you - so I assume a solder job onto this board is what I’d be working with with that solution ?

 

Welcome to AAC.
To be honest, that solder joint on V+ looks really bad. In fact, just about all those joints could use fresh solder and a reflow. Before you spend any money - try reflowing those joints. Possibly a dumb question and maybe even a bit insulting - but I don't intend to insult - but do you know how to solder? Do you have soldering equipment? Would be highly beneficial if you have some solder flux you could apply to the joints before you reflow them.

You DID say water got into the circuitry, so it's possible water has caused corrosion between the V+ and the wire. And for future reference that's not a transformer, it's a power supply. The difference is a transformer changes one AC voltage into another AC voltage. Additional circuitry would be needed to change AC into DC, filter it and regulate it to the amount of current the LED's require. Again, I do not intend to insult anyone. Please don't take offense.

 

This Supply should work if space allows.

There looks to be a huge size differential between what the TS posted based on the wire sizes and the PS you recommended. Also, it looks like that PS would have way more amperage than is needed. But that's just an observation and an opinion.

[edit] There would also be a need to regulate current going to the LED's. That PS could blow the string of LED's. Unless we know more about what the TS is working with. [end edit]

 

After a closer look:
View attachment 356723
This would appear to be a controller, not a transformer or power supply (PS). 24VDC IN and OUT. "Max: 2A" seems to indicate how much current is needed to run the controller and string of LED's. That wouldn't suggest the output is also 24VDC. Will have to see what can be found on the TYPE" YX-24VF-RGB controller.

 

Welcome to AAC.
To be honest, that solder joint on V+ looks really bad. In fact, just about all those joints could use fresh solder and a reflow. Before you spend any money - try reflowing those joints. Possibly a dumb question and maybe even a bit insulting - but I don't intend to insult - but do you know how to solder? Do you have soldering equipment? Would be highly beneficial if you have some solder flux you could apply to the joints before you reflow them.

You DID say water got into the circuitry, so it's possible water has caused corrosion between the V+ and the wire. And for future reference that's not a transformer, it's a power supply. The difference is a transformer changes one AC voltage into another AC voltage. Additional circuitry would be needed to change AC into DC, filter it and regulate it to the amount of current the LED's require. Again, I do not intend to insult anyone. Please don't take offense.

Hi Tony, no offence taken whatsoever. I have a very limited experience of electrics but have always had the mentality that I like to try and fix something but I write it off, as it was an expensive bit of kit.

I’ve never soldered before but was viewing some online tutorials online, but then you may actually advise that the cost of equipment to repair (and if it’s considered a relatively complex job) may render the proposed fix as non-economical.

I’m happy to provide any additional photos or answer any questions, the device is a large Xmas decoration that I’m most hoping to fix for the kids in time..

 

Not finding anything on the web that remotely looks like the TS (Thread Starter) controller driver. TYPE YX-24VR-RGB seems to be a multi-color controller. So since I don't know anything about addressable LED's I wouldn't know how many wires are needed. MY RGB LED string has four lines: Power, Red ground, Green ground and Blue ground. Depending on what's being controlled I get varying light outputs.

Tgi8 tell us more about what you have

 

Not finding anything on the web that remotely looks like the TS (Thread Starter) controller driver. TYPE YX-24VF-RGB seems to be a multi-color controller. So since I don't know anything about addressable LED's I wouldn't know how many wires are needed. MY RGB LED string has four lines: Power, Red ground, Green ground and Blue ground. Depending on what's being controlled I get varying light outputs.

Tgi8 tell us more about what you have

Hi Tony,

I’m sure you may chuckle when you what it relates to, but it is this product, and I can send all photos of the product, wiring, adapter (and can open up the driver) - and provide photos if suitable.

Product

I very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge and any help you can provide.

A Dad in need!

 

I'll leave it up to you if you want to open it and snap pic's to share.

So from your link it's clear they must be addressable LED's. If not - they each are fixed colors. The button on the box - does it only turn lights on and off? Or does it run through a sequence of colors and patterns? Please be very descriptive.

The link was helpful but no where near enough information to help us help you repair it. I'd still guess your first try would be to resolder the joints. And since you're a novice, don't overheat the solder joints, you could pull up copper traces and totally sink any hope of fixing this Christmas ornament. At the same time don't be afraid to reflow the solder. It's manufactured in China, therefore I wouldn't expect it to be of much quality. It's warrantee'd for a year, so they don't expect it to last. Perhaps you shouldn't either. However, there are many members here who know much more about addressable LED's. They would be far more helpful than I can be. And that's IF they're addressable. There's just not enough description in the link.

 

Probably it is the water that was/is inside that package that is responsible for not working. Water does lead to corrosion of electrical packages. And if they are powered while wet the damage is much greater. A package like that likely contains a processor as well as a switch-mode power controller.
Can you show us enough detail of one of the LED light elements so that we can tell if it is a series string, or a parallel string?
Without enough information, the best you will get is guesses, some better and some way off.

 

Wait a moment: This is an outdoor decoration that operates on 24VDC. From where are you getting this 24 volts Direct Current? Is there more to this controller? 24 volts is considered low voltage and wouldn't pose any danger to the user. But if there IS a transformer - or other 24 volt regulator, we need to know. It COULD be a bad 24VDC source.

 

Water does lead to corrosion of electrical packages

Precisely what I was thinking when I commented on the solder joint. It looks like a cold lapped joint. It may have made sufficient contact at one time but if for some reason there's a layer of corrosion between the wire and the solder pad - I'm wondering if that might be the total issue. However, like you said, we don't have enough information. And yes, I've been guessing at what MIGHT be the problem. Until we know more - it IS just guesswork.

 

Wait a moment: But if there IS a transformer - or other 24 volt regulator, we need to know. It COULD be a bad 24VDC source.

The reason why I posted that link.

 

The reason why I posted that link.

Yes, but the original controller/driver is (or was) water proof. And it runs (or ran) on 24VDC. We haven't seen the whole picture yet.

[edit] Gotta go feed the fish in the pond while it's between raining and not. [end edit]

 

Photos coming in next 5mins - overwhelmed by the help and signposts so far.

 

A number of photos shared below.

For additional context; the original issue spanned from one of the wires snapping after falling over in Storm Barbara last year.

The button on the driver (and associated IR remote) is meant to be able to cycle through 8 different colour modes and also multicoloured selection, including fade / flash mode etc

A local electrician was already replacing my cooker hood at the time and kindly stripped and re wired which fixed. However, it then operated erratically vs what the control should have dictated - and when we inspected further, we noted that the driver had water inside, which when drained seemed to improve performance. Eventually a few hours later it just gave up the ghost entirely.

it’s why I suspected the driver is the issue, and any further help most welcome

 

Do you have 24 volts DC coming from the power supply to the controller?

 

Do you have 24 volts DC coming from the power supply to the controller?

just tested that I am getting 24V volts DC from power supply to the controller, and subsequently from the controller around the rest of the circuit - just no lights