It is certainly true that a direct connection between the terminals and the external power supply would be a fairly direct short circuit. BUT how many of the "average consumer" folks would actually bypass their existing doorbell sounder device?? Most folks will have a hard time getting the wires to stay under the screws, even. So for the blink installation, either leave the present (if it works) bell in series, or put a series 33 ohm, 1 watt resistor in line with the power source.

Several years ago I installed a "RING" doorbell for a handicapped senior person. That came with all sorts of instructions, none which applied because the doorbell was not working at all. When the original batteries ran down they had it removed because they had no clue, and they had discarded all of the instructions and had no clue about battery replacement. (Off Topic, I suppose)

 

What does the voltage read during this one camera live view?

This morning one camera alone and it won't live view. The voltage reads 3.0 to 2.8, while it is recording. I'm going to look into a stronger and wise power supply.

 

This morning one camera alone and it won't live view. The voltage reads 3.0 to 2.8, while it is recording. I'm going to look into a stronger and wise power supply.

Looking at the photo of the external battery connection adaption, it is totally outside of any scheme that the design is intended to work with. Probably bypassing every protective feature.
My suggestion for the higher voltage was for a connection to the screw terminals. That connection is intended to be able to handle typical doorbell voltages. The battery input was not intended for that.

 

What is the gauge of the bell wire? Some can be pretty thin and I have found that cameras can have high transient current requirements so it sounds like maybe insufficient copper in the wires.

Alternatively a large capacitor (2000uf or more) across the supply at the camera might be enough to meet transient demand.

I tried an 8200 uf and it helped. After two live views I had to wait a while for it to work again. Thanks for the advice.

 

Not

I have one of those power supplies and it will not maintain an output of 3 volts at 3 amps.
No load measures 3.2volts and 3 volts at a 300ma load (10ohm resistor).
Will need individual power supplies if using that model.

You were very right, the power supply was a piece of CRAP China Rendered Annoying Product. Currently a 12v powersupply and a buck converter all is well.

 

Taken from Blink.

Power:
Main: Two, size AA 1.5-volt lithium non-rechargeable batteries
Chime Wiring: 16 - 24 volts AC at 50 - 60Hz, 40VA maximum
Note: Batteries are always required for use.

Note where they say batteries are always required for use. Have to wonder if the system wants to see batteries?

Ron

 

Taken from Blink.

Power:
Main: Two, size AA 1.5-volt lithium non-rechargeable batteries
Chime Wiring: 16 - 24 volts AC at 50 - 60Hz, 40VA maximum
Note: Batteries are always required for use.

Note where they say batteries are always required for use. Have to wonder if the system wants to see batteries?

Ron

Would batteries be different from a power supply? Electric wise.

 

Would batteries be different from a power supply? Electric wise.

The spec calling for lithium AA cells is a flag for possible high transient demand, as lithium is much more capable than other AA technologies (alkaline or carbon-zinc).

 

My son has this same doorbell. He connected directly to the battery terminals with a 5 volt regulated power supply with two silicon diodes in series to drop the voltage. We started with three diodes but the voltage was too low for reliable operation. Doorbell still working a year later.

 

Would batteries be different from a power supply? Electric wise.

I don't know but have had products that needed batteries installed when trying to run them on an external supply.

Ron

 

"Reasonably fresh batteries" seem to provide a lower source impedance than any source connected thru longer leads. Probably having an adequate power input capacitor was beyond the budget specification in a lot of consumer products. So a substitute for batteries could be a challenge for some products. What I have wondered about is using rechargeable lithium batteries in a blink device. If there really is any trickle charging function then that might possibly be the way to go. I am a bit puzzled by the comment about battery types. And also wondering about post #29, "five volts minus two diode drops." That could be 3.6 volts, in theory, not sure how that compares to two fresh lithium batteries.

 

I am a bit puzzled by the comment about battery types.

Back in olden times, pre-smart-phone, the little portable cameras that used AA cells required lithium cells to meet the high current demand. Ordinary alkaline or carbon-zinc couldn't deliver and the camera wouldn't work.

 

I have two very good CANNON cameras that use 2 AA cells of any kind.
I do offer one piece of serious advice: Take the batteries out of the camera when not using it, if they are the type that could leak. Even that (used to be) good brand of batteries leak, long before they get weak.