Ok great

Am hoping to leave the plug on and stick one of these in my breadboard

http://cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electr...5p/dc-skt-dual-2-1-2-5mm-pcb-dc10l/dp/CN16319

Is that a feasible way to attach?

 

Ok great

Am hoping to leave the plug on and stick one of these in my breadboard

http://cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electr...5p/dc-skt-dual-2-1-2-5mm-pcb-dc10l/dp/CN16319

Is that a feasible way to attach?

Yes, they are in common use, get the solder or PCB mount version which ever suits you project board.
Check that pin layout will fit your project board sockets.!!

Also check that the plug fits the socket, they come in many sizes.!

 

I came late on this thread, but this might be of some help...

Bill's Blog

Basic Bench Top Power Supplies

Creating a Virtual Power Supply Ground

 

For most of what you're doing the 7805 will get warm, or very warm, but not hot enough to burn you. The power dissipated in the 7805 is (the power supply output voltage minus 5V) times the load current (NOT the current printed on the power supply). In your case the PS output could be as high as 12 or 14 V depending on load, but most of your loads will be below 100 mA.

Example: (11 - 5) x .1 = 0.6 W. Warm but not dangerous. Anything above 1 W, clip on some metal.

ak

 

For most of what you're doing the 7805 will get warm, or very warm, but not hot enough to burn you. The power dissipated in the 7805 is (the power supply output voltage minus 5V) times the load current (NOT the current printed on the power supply). In your case the PS output could be as high as 12 or 14 V depending on load, but most of your loads will be below 100 mA.

Example: (11 - 5) x .1 = 0.6 W. Warm but not dangerous. Anything above 1 W, clip on some metal.

ak

There used to be an abundant supply of small open frame switchers on the surplus market, you'd get at the very least; +5V & +12V, and usually the complementary negative rails too. You have to load the 5V rail to get the other rails going, but that's rarely a problem.

Most of the old 80's style home computers (Atari Amiga etc) had at least +5V & +12V switchers.

These days, possibly the best source of surplus SMPSUs is old DTV set top boxes, these generally have +3.3V, +5V and usually +12V (definitely if it has a HDD) some even have a +1.8V rail - the difficulty is that usually more than one rail is sensed for regulation and you have to load all the sensed rails for it to work.

With the ever increasing use of SMD, its getting harder to hand trace into these things to find out what's going on.

 

There are a ton of small, dirt cheap switchers on the surplus market, and almost all of them reaquire a minimum load to stabilize the magnetics. Frustrating, but you can get a lot of watts cheap if you hang on one power resistor.

ak

 

I purchased my
http://cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electronic-components/dc10a/socket-pcb-dc-power-2-1mm-pk10/dp/CN14779

Works a treat

Just wondering why my 9V wall wart produces 13V?

 

is that ac to ac wall ward or ac to dc ?

rms of 9v ac will produce 12.6v dc anyways.

 

The output is highr when unloaded because yours are basic linear power supplies with no dc regulation. Transformer, diodes, cap, connector. The parts are sized for the correct output voltage at the load current stamped on the outside.

ak