Wow, that's more complicated than I expected. Would it be hard to get a picture of the other side of that circuit board?

Here we go!

 

Here we go!

Ah, ok, so the red and black wires go to the capacitive sensor and the rest of the circuit processes the sensor signal and does the switching. We now need to figure out how to bypass all that so you can do the switching manually. This shouldn’t be too hard.

 

Really? Got to be a simpler way to use the kit above.

 

The diagram I'd like to see is the one cited here:

 

The diagram I'd like to see is the one cited here:

View attachment 231147

Okay, I am going to take it apart and get you some pictures. I am just not there right now so it will take a little bit before I can provide it. Thanks!

 

Here we go!

This http://www.afiata.com/wp-content/up...tch-Circuit-Diagram-using-74HCT74-ZVNL110.jpg
isn't identical to your circuit but it gives you some idea of what the circuit is probably doing. The 74HCT14 is probably acting as the pulse generator. If you use a DMM and trace the large wires to the IC's you can see if they connect tot he 74HCT74 flip-flop. This could give you additional information about how to circumvent/replace the sensor.

You will probably be able to substitute in any simple capacitive-touch sensor.

 

Hi Anniel, Wayneh, and JJWsei

Thanks for your continued support. I am now no longer at that house. Can we just let this thread sleep for a while until I get you the requested diagram @ wayneh? I feel that is what is needed, no?

 

I feel that is what is needed, no?

That's what I would need, yes. If @anniel747 has ideas about repairing the capacitive sensor, I'm all ears.

 

First of all, did you test it?

Describe the test protocol. I'm sure @kalkulate will give it a go if possible.

 

Wow, that's more complicated than I expected. Would it be hard to get a picture of the other side of that circuit board?
I think there's another level beneath the terminal area in the picture. Maybe there's more to see in there, a relay and and maybe a diagram.

Jingle Bells everyone. I’m back at my fathers house and back on the jacuzzi repair job.
First thing, I’ve taken apart the box and the Wiring Connection Diagram is simply the 6 terminal labels. But, for your viewing pleasure and support in assisting me with the reinstatement of bubble baths, I’ve added some more photos

 

And the really interesting ones:

 

And here again the broken on/off sensor switch, formerly glued to the outside of the tub and activated by touch from inside the tub.

 

Hi Folks,

Happy New Year.

Ideally I think I’d like to hook that pressure sensor input on the control box into a push button switch. It has three prongs, so I’m just not sure how I should be testing it to figure out how to hook it up.
Now that I’ve taken the control box out, I should be able to hook up power and a light pump (instead of motor) to test around what does what… I worry though that without the water level sensor hooked up that may have difficulty. Maybe I’ll just screw it all on a board temporarily to mess around.

any pointers or test suggestions happily received. Thanks !

 

I have not seen this thread before today hence I am jumping into the game at a late stage.
Also I have not read the entire thread.

The sensor circuit you have posted in post #32 is simple enough.

MC74HCT14AN - Hex Schmitt-trigger inverter
MC74HC74AN - Dual D-type flip-flop

These are common digital logic ICs and are readily available. They operate from 2-6VDC supplies.
The trimpot is for adjusting the sensitivity level of the sensor.

If you post a photo of the reverse side of the board we can reverse engineer the circuit.

You can test this circuit independent of the rest of the bathtub.
Firstly, use a DVM and measure the supply voltage coming into the board. (With the bottom view we will be able to tell you which wires are the power inputs)

With the board powered up (either from the system power or on a workbench), we will be able to test the proper operation of the circuit.

 

I have not seen this thread before today hence I am jumping into the game at a late stage.
Also I have not read the entire thread.

The sensor circuit you have posted in post #32 is simple enough.

MC74HCT14AN - Hex Schmitt-trigger inverter
MC74HC74AN - Dual D-type flip-flop

These are common digital logic ICs and are readily available. They operate from 2-6VDC supplies.
The trimpot is for adjusting the sensitivity level of the sensor.

If you post a photo of the reverse side of the board we can reverse engineer the circuit.

You can test this circuit independent of the rest of the bathtub.
Firstly, use a DVM and measure the supply voltage coming into the board. (With the bottom view we will be able to tell you which wires are the power inputs)

With the board powered up (either from the system power or on a workbench), we will be able to test the proper operation of the circuit.

Hi Mr Chips,

Thanks for your response. Backside of circuit board from post #32 (Pressure switch) attached.

 

Ok, thanks for the photo.
+power is the red wire
GND is the black wire.

There are two components hidden from view by the red and green wires on the top side.
Can we get a photo of these components?

btw, your photos are excellent, well focused.

 

Ok, thanks for the photo.
+power is the red wire
GND is the black wire.

There are two components hidden from view by the red and green wires on the top side.
Can we get a photo of these components?

btw, your photos are excellent, well focused.

 

I meant the components hidden by the green and red wires.

 

I meant the components hidden by the green and red wires.

View attachment 256762

Oops, okay sure.
That smaller resistor has the following stamped on it:

IN
52
31B
249

 

Ok, thanks.
1N5231B is a 5.1V 0.5W zener diode.

Hence your circuit is being powered with any voltage from about 7-12V.
The zener diode regulates the supply voltage to about 5V.

If you wanted you can bench test this board with a 9V battery.

What test equipment do you have?
Do you at least have a DMM, an LED and 1kΩ resistor or there abouts?

I am working on a circuit schematic. It is not that complex.