heat shrunk motor wires into a cable
at end slit few inches of shrink tube to extract cap wires, then heat shrink again remaining wires into box.

7.5 mfd 70*c cap covered on end so no exposed terminals.
I had that cover and cap bracket from old motor, fits perfect with box.
Box cover can slip out with bracket attached.
Electric box mounts to attic wood stud
AC power wire enters at existing cable clamp.
I have a bigger cable clamp for the bundle, and need to go to LOWES for the rod, nuts and bolts, everything else I had.

 

My history with oiling fan motor bushings: I've come across fans that would hardly spin due to dryness and buildup in the bushings. In rare cases it has been extremely difficult to even get a motor and bushings separated. WD-40 worked well for cleaning the bushings. However, over time, and not long at that, WD-40 breaks down and does not provide sufficient lubrication. This has been my experiences. I've taken to using transmission fluid as a lubricant for motor bushings and it has served me very well. On my old swamp cooler (evaporative cooler good in dry climates) I always lubed the fan shaft with transmission fluid. I've never had a failure. I just made sure to lube the bushings at the beginning of the cooling season and again when winterizing the machine.

The point is that when lubricating what you're calling a bearing, probably a bushing and not a ball-bearing, don't use WD-40 for anything other than cleaning. Don't use abrasives either. Don't scrape buildup off. And finally, it can be well worth it to replace old and worn with new. Far less hassles and greater security against having an attic fire start because an older motor doesn't have thermal protection.

 

Most of these fans have sintered bronze or Oilite bearings.
I leave them to soak in Kerosene overnight , then a period using very light engine oil.
Any sign of wear, replace them. !

 

I lubricate the bronze bearings, or whatever that metal is, with #30 or #40 motor oil. It is no longer adequate for automotive engines, and a quart can of it lasts a very long time wehn each application is just a few drops.

 

I use 0W synthetic for oilite sintered bearings

 

I may take motor apart, clean them, then lube with 0w-20 or 0x-30 full synthetic.
Some I just dribble oil into the oil port, if it has one.
These furnace blower motors have sleeve bearings and cotton like packing with an oil port.
You want to saturate the packing with oil.
Technically supposed to oil them every year or so, which most people ignore, me too.

I have noticed the full synthetic oils don't carbonize like the old DINO oils will.
And the oil lasts longer in these bearings.

 

My history with oiling fan motor bushings: I've come across fans that would hardly spin due to dryness and buildup in the bushings. In rare cases it has been extremely difficult to even get a motor and bushings separated. WD-40 worked well for cleaning the bushings. However, over time, and not long at that, WD-40 breaks down and does not provide sufficient lubrication. This has been my experiences. I've taken to using transmission fluid as a lubricant for motor bushings and it has served me very well. On my old swamp cooler (evaporative cooler good in dry climates) I always lubed the fan shaft with transmission fluid. I've never had a failure. I just made sure to lube the bushings at the beginning of the cooling season and again when winterizing the machine.

The point is that when lubricating what you're calling a bearing, probably a bushing and not a ball-bearing, don't use WD-40 for anything other than cleaning. Don't use abrasives either. Don't scrape buildup off. And finally, it can be well worth it to replace old and worn with new. Far less hassles and greater security against having an attic fire start because an older motor doesn't have thermal protection.

Yes, have also used ATF. It is about 10w oil.
One good thing, it is a good cleaner. Dissolves gunky stuff, it will also dissolve rust.
Got a rusty nut bolt, just put ATF on there and apply some heat. It comes loose. I tend to heat things lightly with a propane torch, enough to see the oil bubbling. When you heat metal it expands at different rates, rust crystals are crushed, the oil gets between the parts.

I have put ATF in a pan on an electric stove top, submerged a tight rusted part, the hot ATF does a good job of lubricating and dissolving out the rust between parts. And you can use old ATF.

 

And you can use old ATF.

Good point. But who has old ATF? I typically end up with used motor oil. When my 5 gallon bucket is half to three quarters full I take it in for recycling. But I haven't changed trans fluid in decades. Not that I don't have it done, just it's more bother to do than to pay someone. But good point though.

On the subject of ATF: When I bought this house it came with some assorted left-behind junk including a quart of ATF. I've lived here since 06, so 18 years. Two years ago I went from swamp cooler to air conditioning. Gave my swamper to my son. Along with the 4/5 full ATF that I've been keeping the bushings oiled with and an oversized syringe and plastic applicator. Great for dropping oil into the little spring loaded oiler port.

 

Good point. But who has old ATF? I typically end up with used motor oil. When my 5 gallon bucket is half to three quarters full I take it in for recycling. But I haven't changed trans fluid in decades. Not that I don't have it done, just it's more bother to do than to pay someone. But good point though.

On the subject of ATF: When I bought this house it came with some assorted left-behind junk including a quart of ATF. I've lived here since 06, so 18 years. Two years ago I went from swamp cooler to air conditioning. Gave my swamper to my son. Along with the 4/5 full ATF that I've been keeping the bushings oiled with and an oversized syringe and plastic applicator. Great for dropping oil into the little spring loaded oiler port.

I am very mechanically minded, so I service my own transmissions, like change the pan filters.

 

I am very mechanically minded, so I service my own transmissions, like change the pan filters.

Certainly there is a vast spread among participants in these threads as to what resources they have available. Some folks have only what they can purchase locally while other benefit from decades of accumulation. And all are welcome and qualified to participate in the discussions!!

 

Certainly there is a vast spread among participants in these threads as to what resources they have available. Some folks have only what they can purchase locally while other benefit from decades of accumulation. And all are welcome and qualified to participate in the discussions!!

I tend to keep holding on to things.
I also pick up other people's junk off the street, if it looks useful,

Fan installed and running fine. I used yellow wire for medium low speed.
I think anymore power use is not needed.
With it on, I can feel it pulling air thru attic.
It has your typical separate adjustable thermostat.

I have not finished fully the wire connections, when I do, will post a final picture.
I can only work up their early AM due to we live in SE VA, and the attic gets real hot.
I also have a ridge vent. The fan is best for attic cooling.
I assume the unused other 3 speed wires need capping off.

 

Here it is. Will be 97 today.
I have fan thermostat pointing at 90. Yesterday, it was 94. It go hot in mid morning, then set thermostat to just turn on fan.

For oiling this has aluminum plugs that pull out. I use an ear bulb with 0w-30. I dripped it in about 30 drops, but was thinking if it fit better would not lose some oil onto the housing. Maybe a small syringe would be better. Ideally something with a good fit and also know exactly what an oil charge should be.

 

The installation looks good so far. And I am guessing that what looks like a black wire in the photo is just a shadow.

 

Appears to me the black object and wire has the Cap attached to it?

 

Here it is. Will be 97 today.

You or the fan??

 

Good job. Glad we had a part in getting your fan up and running.

 

Yes, thanks for the help on the capacitors.
I put this in a year ago, then this month that Fasco motor burnt out.
That fan is old, from maybe the 60's or 70's. House built in 1963. It was in my wife's parents house and when they died, and we were selling the home, I pulled it out and replaced as it was not working with the AFCI-GFCI GE combo breaker the home inspector said had to be installed, kept tripping it off. I had upgraded the service to 200 amp from 150, did it all myself, and put in a new panel too.

Oddly, last year I tried it with our house AFCI-GFCI Square-D purple handled combo breaker, and it did not trip off. So, I decided to use it, and we got one year from it. I should have replaced the cap a year ago. I figure it's my own fault it burned out as the motor was perfect looking windings and all.

I may block off the gable vent with plywood next to fan to more force air to be drawn across attic.
I can feel the slight breeze in the attic, so it does pull air across the attic. Was reading some say block off the gable vent not covered by the fan. But it's way too hot today to do much of anything.

 

The installation looks good so far. And I am guessing that what looks like a black wire in the photo is just a shadow.

yes, shadow from flashlight.
I had to screw a 4x4 block to bring the mount for electric box forward, to fit with the fan. The fan shroud is screwed to a wood frame I made last year.
Sticks out from wall to clear fan blades. Today these fans have a metal cylinder does that job.

 

When I recently had my roof re-shingled, I got them to cut a hole in the roof and installed & wired a roof fan that expelled the roof air near the apex of the roof.
Weather protected version, intended for the job.

 

I hope that the installation does not let rain blow in. THAT was what I got from the roof vents that were installed by the crew that did mine. Our local city government declared that every roof replacement must add vents. But they never specified quality or leak resistance. So then I had to solve the problem because the company that did the work vanished when the check cleared.