Nice photos Lili. Is the BA3 box the 12V supply ? What are items just above the wire spools ?
Do you have the LED rope mounting clips & terminal strip ?

 

I don't know what a terminal strip is so not sure I have one. EDIT: Yes I DO! haha! We call them "Chock blocks" here. When I looked up what a terminal strip was I said out loud "Oh right chock blocks!" and my son said: "Oooooh what's choc blocks? Can you eat them?" He thought I meant chocolate lol!

Items above the wire are connectors, they may not be necessary I might have just left them in the box but basically they convert wires into jack connectors so you can plug them into a mains.

I am actually waiting for mounting clips! I ordered some clear ones, they aren't massively important as the element is going on the bottom of the oven so I could tape it in place until the clips arrive.

We are going to put the kitchen together today, I am wondering if I need everything flat or if I could do this after assembly?

 

Remember that you want to mount and assemble the oven pot & SW before assembly. Have you checked the positioning of the knobs yet ? I would practice drilling the SW & pot holes on similar wood. Lili, do you have a drill press or is this work to be sub contracted out ?

 

Remember that you want to mount and assemble the oven pot & SW before assembly. Have you checked the positioning of the knobs yet ? I would practice drilling the SW & pot holes on similar wood. Lili, do you have a drill press or is this work to be sub contracted out ?

Hahaha! No, nothing that fancy, I'm doing everything. I have the wood and can drill the hole. Am I drilling a hole so that the bottom of the pot goes in or just the knob part? I have a hand drill. The wood is just mdf, I have experience with drilling etc so I'm confident. Once I've put the pots in what's next? Heat sink? Where is that going? I've also got something that is a screw and a small bit of plastic. Where does that go?

 

Lili, about time to dig out the pot, SW, knobs, & shaft adapters, then reread page 4, post # 70.
The SW has a 1/4" D shaft & pot has a 6 mm D shaft, almost the same, but the sticky part is the
short threaded bushing of 6.5 mm which allows 2 mm for nuts & 4.5 mm of mounting wood. I attached a simple cross section of the drilling. I have never tried to drill a 1 1/8 " dia. hole with a hand cranked drill, or maybe it is an electric hand drill. ( my oldest tool , 1938, is a hand cranked
drill, last used 3 wks. ago ) . A 1 1/8" spade bit is almost the same as 30 mm.

 

Bernard, DISASTER!!! The pot shafts are too short for the wood! I have written to Mouser for help and I am also considering some lengtheners I've seen but they're in China. What I decided to do was to put the kitchen together so my son can have it to play with then when I have the right bits I will take the top off and get drilling and fit all the bits to make it sing and dance so I'm pausing this again but will be back. I think in the mean time I will try to build the circuit as a dry run using your schematic.

Couple of questions: Do I need two heat sinks? Where does the heat sink go?

Thanks Bernard, we'll get there :-D

 

Please pardon me for sticking my head in. When faced with a similar problem, I solved it this way.

I found a thin piece of material (I used a piece of Masonite in the states. You could use a blank PCB board). I cut a rectangle out of it to mount the pots on. I’d make it wide enough so that there was space along the edges to mount it on the panel. Then, I cut holes in the backing wood to clear the entire pot body with wires. Attach the pot to this thin material. Then glue/nail the thin backing to the thick wood.

Since you’re using a hand drill, my second method won’t work. I used a Forstner bit to create a recessed opening for the pot.

 

Please pardon me for sticking my head in. When faced with a similar problem, I solved it this way.

I found a thin piece of material (I used a piece of Masonite in the states. You could use a blank PCB board). I cut a rectangle out of it to mount the pots on. I’d make it wide enough so that there was space along the edges to mount it on the panel. Then, I cut holes in the backing wood to clear the entire pot body with wires. Attach the pot to this thin material. Then glue/nail the thin backing to the thick wood.

Since you’re using a hand drill, my second method won’t work. I used a Forstner bit to create a recessed opening for the pot.

Grateful for the suggestion! Not sure how I would do that practically. Some of the issue is I am struggling to "see" how things work/put together and that makes it difficult, if I could envision it a bit better I could do it.

 

Lili. is your drill electric or hand operated ? Can you buy a 30 mm spade bit ?
Again, forgot to post comment, but an hour later I have a 30 mm recess 8 mm deep leaving 4 mm
of composit wood ( MFD ? ). Drilled 5- 3 mm holes in pot terminal aria, cleaned up with 1/2" chisel
& an identical pot fits just fine. Drilled with 1/2 " electric hand drill. We still need to determine where the anti-rotation tab goes, page 4, # 70.

 

Hi Bernard I have an electric drill and yes I have both spade and wheel bits. If I drill it the way you're suggesting I don't see how I can secure the pot to the wood, please bear in mind that I need to add a "chuck" (for want of a better word) so that the knob will fit and that will take up another 10mm. Mouser have been in touch and say they might be able to help so I may just get a longer Pot from them. Be easier methinks.

 

Hi Bernard I have an electric drill and yes I have both spade and wheel bits. If I drill it the way you're suggesting I don't see how I can secure the pot to the wood, please bear in mind that I need to add a "chuck" (for want of a better word) so that the knob will fit and that will take up another 10mm. Mouser have been in touch and say they might be able to help so I may just get a longer Pot from them. Be easier methinks.

Sorry, I interpreted your comment that you only had a hand drill as meaning it was manual. Not electric. ThIs hole would be through the remaining 4mm of wood. This 4mm would be used to attach the pot.

Once you drill out the recess that Bernard described, you would drill a hole in the center, which would allow insertion of the threaded connection on the pot. Then the knob would attach to the protruding shaft.

 

Sorry, I interpreted your comment that you only had a hand drill as meaning it was manual. Not electric. ThIs hole would be through the remaining 4mm of wood. This 4mm would be used to attach the pot.

Once you drill out the recess that Bernard described, you would drill a hole in the center, which would allow insertion of the threaded connection on the pot. Then the knob would attach to the protruding shaft.

Sorry I'm still not following the wood is about 10-12mm the shaft is about 10mm by the looks of things. I need space to put a chuck on (which is the bit that holds the knob) plus the knob to turn so this needs extra space too. I don't think that has been accounted for. Are you saying to mount the pot within the whole so it sort of wedges in and then how would the wires attach to it? Sorry but it's not very clear what you're saying, I think I really need a longer shaft.

 

Sorry I'm still not following the wood is about 10-12mm the shaft is about 10mm by the looks of things. I need space to put a chuck on (which is the bit that holds the knob) plus the knob to turn so this needs extra space too. I don't think that has been accounted for. Are you saying to mount the pot within the whole so it sort of wedges in and then how would the wires attach to it? Sorry but it's not very clear what you're saying, I think I really need a longer shaft.

Besides the hole, Bernard explained how to drill additional holes which were cleaned up with a chisel to leave space for the wires.

You want to make space for the pot and it’s wires, leaving enough wood to attach the pot.

I must admit I don’t understand what the “chuck” is. I’m used to knobs that directly attach to the pot shaft. Usually, the shaft and knob has a flat edge, to keep the knob from rotating on the shaft.

And in mounting in this manner, the knob is slightly above the mounting plane. Thus, there is no requirement for space to allow the knob to rotate.

 

The pot & SW have a 6.5 mm threaded bushing, pots with longer bushing , 10 mm, would still need to have a recess for either the nut or the pot body. On pot, the shaft is 6 mm dia. & 15 mm long & protrudes thru the bushing of 8 mm OD. The shaft has a D cross section 8.5 mm long
which goes into a "chuck" or knob D shaft adapter which then goes into a knob. The knob is on the top on cross section drawing, pot & SW go into the recesses held in place by nuts on top under the knobs. The heat sink is between the pot & SW shown on drawing.

 

Besides the hole, Bernard explained how to drill additional holes which were cleaned up with a chisel to leave space for the wires.

You want to make space for the pot and it’s wires, leaving enough wood to attach the pot.

I must admit I don’t understand what the “chuck” is. I’m used to knobs that directly attach to the pot shaft. Usually, the shaft and knob has a flat edge, to keep the knob from rotating on the shaft.

And in mounting in this manner, the knob is slightly above the mounting plane. Thus, there is no requirement for space to allow the knob to rotate.

The pot & SW have a 6.5 mm threaded bushing, pots with longer bushing , 10 mm, would still need to have a recess for either the nut or the pot body. On pot, the shaft is 6 mm dia. & 15 mm long & protrudes thru the bushing of 8 mm OD. The shaft has a D cross section 8.5 mm long
which goes into a "chuck" or knob D shaft adapter which then goes into a knob. The knob is on the top on cross section drawing, pot & SW go into the recesses held in place by nuts on top under the knobs. The heat sink is between the pot & SW shown on drawing.

Hi Bernard and @djsfantasi apologies that I've been as clear as mud. Firstly no the shaft really isn't 15mm it's shorter and I think that's where the problem lies, it barely pokes out the other side of the wood and the other shaft is even shorter! Here are the knobs I'm using. What I am calling the "chuck" is the coloured pieces, these fit onto the D shaft and then the knob goes onto them.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07Q44BKGL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Here’s a side view cross section of the wood where the pots are mounted. Note where the wood is drilled out for the body of the pot. Plus where the wood is drilled and chiseled out for the terminals and wires. And finally note the center hole where the pot is inserted. When prepared in this manner, the entire shaft protrudes leaving room for the chuck.

 

Here’s a view from the back, showing how the holes are drilled.

 

On pot, 15 mm is from body to end of shaft, 15 mm - 6.5 mm bushing = shaft length of 8.5 mm, plenty for adapter

 

Here’s a side view cross section of the wood where the pots are mounted. Note where the wood is drilled out for the body of the pot. Plus where the wood is drilled and chiseled out for the terminals and wires. And finally note the center hole where the pot is inserted. When prepared in this manner, the entire shaft protrudes leaving room for the chuck.
View attachment 215782

THANK YOU!!!!! I don't know why but it's as though a light has gone on with this picture. I really get it now, cool. I'll do that today. Thanks for being so patient and explaining.

 

On pot, 15 mm is from body to end of shaft, 15 mm - 6.5 mm bushing = shaft length of 8.5 mm, plenty for adapter

Yeah I get it now Bernard, thanks so much. Like I said to DJS Fantasi sometimes the problem is I can't envision it but the moment I do I'm good to go Really appreciate your patience.