$80 Fluke 15B+ New

Discussion in 'Test & Measurement Forum' started by Wolframore, May 11, 2019.

  1. Wolframore

    Thread Starter Active Member

    Jan 21, 2019
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    Yes, I like to have clips on the ground sometimes... they make clips that go on your probe. Alligator clips are sometimes too big if you want to clip to a component leg... they make smaller ones also. Google multi meter probes and you'll find an assortment. Price varies... the nicer ones cost an arm and a leg but are nice... the lesser ones work just not as nice and not as well made.

    They are real Flukes and licensed by Fluke but for NON-US territory and priced for poorer markets... so kind of a grayish area... by bringing them into US technically they are not allowed and Fluke will not honor their warranty.
     
  2. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
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    and thanks...Loving the meter
    DOn't fail to post other nice stuffs when available
     
  3. SamR

    Member

    Mar 19, 2019
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    Zeeus likes this.
  4. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
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    don't remember where you put this
    https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B071WNNYQT/afromods-20
    guess will be handy for inductance
     
  5. SamR

    Member

    Mar 19, 2019
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    Also... I bought the ANENG AN870 "Fluke Killer" for under $30 and a day later saw one for under $10 for sale on eBay. Does a lot more than my Fluke 27 and not as large and clunky. It does take longer for it to settle on a measurement than my Fluke, but all in all very pleased with it And once again I'm not using it on line voltages so it fits well into what I'm using it for.
     
  6. Wolframore

    Thread Starter Active Member

    Jan 21, 2019
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    My only complaint for the AN870 is the time to settle on capacitance and the useless kickstand... my Thsinde has a similar case but they put the stand on the hard case and it actually works... Aneng put the stand on the soft case which mean it droops... ugh. worst stand ever. But it's a very useful meter... accurate and very good despite the faults.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2019
  7. SamR

    Member

    Mar 19, 2019
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    The kickstand is much better than the one on my AstoAI AM22D which is totally useless as it lies almost flat using it. I usually have to prop up the Astro on something to see the display. I usually use my cheapo parts tester for capacitance or a capacitance meter I have that nulls and zeros out for ultra low. The AN870 is slow settling but the backlit display that my Fluke lacks makes up for it plus the AutoOff. I had the Fluke 27 because I worked in Electrically Classified explosive environments which requires Factory Mutual approved intrinsically safe devices. There aren't any multimeters that are approved, but the Fluke 27 is Mine Safety and Health Act approved for methane environments and as close to intrinsic as you can get. Even a well abused and beat up 27 is still around $50.
     
  8. Wolframore

    Thread Starter Active Member

    Jan 21, 2019
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    this is what I mean... my $13 Thsinde still remains my favorite:

    AN870: notice how the stand is mounted to the soft cover... it sags when you try to turn the dial with one hand... or put pressure on it (like push a button)
    an870.jpg

    Thsinde: Notice that the stand is mounted to the hard plastic case... much better design it stays up when using. Doesn't look like it would take much weight to break but its more useful.
    thsinde.jpg
     
  9. SamR

    Member

    Mar 19, 2019
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    Yes, I noticed that. The only wee problem is the kickstand doesn't fit well/snap back in place as it should and takes a bit of pushing to seat it securely back into the rubber. A very minor nuisance but I tend to be a compulsive perfectionist. LOL It is annoying that it jumps from 200Ω to 1kΩ with only 1 implied decimal place IE 0.5614kΩ for 561.4Ω.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2019
  10. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
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    think my fuse for mA and UA is blown

    was trying to measure voltage but then realized probe was on current


    the 10A section is still working but can't measure little current

    It's blown fuse right?? want to learn how to fix
     
  11. SLK001

    Senior Member

    Nov 29, 2011
    1,307
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    If you're lucky, all it is is a blown fuse. It's possible that you fried all the electronics.
     
  12. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
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    lol....it's still working

    should return it to get new? or fix fuse?
     
  13. Wolframore

    Thread Starter Active Member

    Jan 21, 2019
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    First check the fuse, fuses are consumables
     
  14. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
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    Thinking maybe if open then void warranty

    Anyways, fun to fix..will do tomorrow

    Thanks for the thread :)
     
  15. Ford Prefect

    Senior Member

    Jun 14, 2010
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  16. Wolframore

    Thread Starter Active Member

    Jan 21, 2019
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    Only if there's a tamper seal or sticker... if there is you may want to send it back instead. My guess is if it was working when you got it, it is possible that the fuse is blown which is not covered under warranty. But it may be covered by the sales terms... There's a 440mA fast blow fuse for the low current circuit. They're not cheap... about $7-8 online is what I've seen... replace with Fluke fuse would be good idea.

    https://www.amazon.com/Combo-pack-D...ocphy=9052566&hvtargid=pla-323464552252&psc=1
     
  17. SamR

    Member

    Mar 19, 2019
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    I'd say it would be highly unlikely that changing a fuse would void any warranty since it is designed to be replaced. Some are more accessible that others.
     
  18. Wolframore

    Thread Starter Active Member

    Jan 21, 2019
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    I hate to recommend this cause there's a chance you can mess it up but you can short it temporarily and measure a low current to see if it works before changing it... also you can check the old fuse using it inline with a battery and maybe a 20mA LED with resistor??? or another meter.

    If the fuse tests good then send it back... otherwise up to you whether you want to change fuse or ask for return or exchange.
     
  19. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
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    Got 440mA fuse...old was 400mA
    Think the fuse is bad cause connecting through led and resistor then no light when it was in the meter..although will test it again soon
     
  20. Zeeus

    Member

    Apr 17, 2019
    304
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    Easy fix : wouldn't mind blowing it again

    About the fuse test : saw could use continuity test...For the resistor and LED test, the two sides of the fuse is like two sides of any other component (like resistor) yeah?

    "1000V fast acting fuse" : what it means? max of 1000V?
     
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