seems good..

is it okay to attach alligator clips to the end of the probe? need worry about thickness of wire of alligator clip?

like instead of using the tip of the probe, want to use alligator clips as the end

Yes, I like to have clips on the ground sometimes... they make clips that go on your probe. Alligator clips are sometimes too big if you want to clip to a component leg... they make smaller ones also. Google multi meter probes and you'll find an assortment. Price varies... the nicer ones cost an arm and a leg but are nice... the lesser ones work just not as nice and not as well made.

They are real Flukes and licensed by Fluke but for NON-US territory and priced for poorer markets... so kind of a grayish area... by bringing them into US technically they are not allowed and Fluke will not honor their warranty.

 

Yes, I like to have clips on the ground sometimes... they make clips that go on your probe. Alligator clips are sometimes too big if you want to clip to a component leg... they make smaller ones also. Google multi meter probes and you'll find an assortment. Price varies... the nicer ones cost an arm and a leg but are nice... the lesser ones work just not as nice and not as well made.

They are real Flukes and licensed by Fluke but for NON-US territory and priced for poorer markets... so kind of a grayish area... by bringing them into US technically they are not allowed and Fluke will not honor their warranty.

and thanks...Loving the meter
DOn't fail to post other nice stuffs when available

 

Elenco makes some minigrabbers that are half the price of the Pomona ones and I think just as good. They do not have plug in boots but I'm not going to be using minigrabbers on high voltage anyway. For breadboards, I just clip a jumper into the grabber to plug into the breadboard.

https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-TL-12...s=gateway&sprefix=minigrabber,aps,147&sr=8-14

 

Elenco makes some minigrabbers that are half the price of the Pomona ones and I think just as good. They do not have plug in boots but I'm not going to be using minigrabbers on high voltage anyway. For breadboards, I just clip a jumper into the grabber to plug into the breadboard.

https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-TL-12-Banana-Mingrabber-Set/dp/B0002JJU3C/ref=sr_1_14?crid=2KPSBWIVQT3L4&keywords=minigrabber+test+leads&qid=1560176851&s=gateway&sprefix=minigrabber,aps,147&sr=8-14

don't remember where you put this
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B071WNNYQT/afromods-20
guess will be handy for inductance

 

Also... I bought the ANENG AN870 "Fluke Killer" for under $30 and a day later saw one for under $10 for sale on eBay. Does a lot more than my Fluke 27 and not as large and clunky. It does take longer for it to settle on a measurement than my Fluke, but all in all very pleased with it And once again I'm not using it on line voltages so it fits well into what I'm using it for.

 

My only complaint for the AN870 is the time to settle on capacitance and the useless kickstand... my Thsinde has a similar case but they put the stand on the hard case and it actually works... Aneng put the stand on the soft case which mean it droops... ugh. worst stand ever. But it's a very useful meter... accurate and very good despite the faults.

 

The kickstand is much better than the one on my AstoAI AM22D which is totally useless as it lies almost flat using it. I usually have to prop up the Astro on something to see the display. I usually use my cheapo parts tester for capacitance or a capacitance meter I have that nulls and zeros out for ultra low. The AN870 is slow settling but the backlit display that my Fluke lacks makes up for it plus the AutoOff. I had the Fluke 27 because I worked in Electrically Classified explosive environments which requires Factory Mutual approved intrinsically safe devices. There aren't any multimeters that are approved, but the Fluke 27 is Mine Safety and Health Act approved for methane environments and as close to intrinsic as you can get. Even a well abused and beat up 27 is still around $50.

 

this is what I mean... my $13 Thsinde still remains my favorite:

AN870: notice how the stand is mounted to the soft cover... it sags when you try to turn the dial with one hand... or put pressure on it (like push a button)


Thsinde: Notice that the stand is mounted to the hard plastic case... much better design it stays up when using. Doesn't look like it would take much weight to break but its more useful.

 

Yes, I noticed that. The only wee problem is the kickstand doesn't fit well/snap back in place as it should and takes a bit of pushing to seat it securely back into the rubber. A very minor nuisance but I tend to be a compulsive perfectionist. LOL It is annoying that it jumps from 200Ω to 1kΩ with only 1 implied decimal place IE 0.5614kΩ for 561.4Ω.

 

think my fuse for mA and UA is blown

was trying to measure voltage but then realized probe was on current


the 10A section is still working but can't measure little current

It's blown fuse right?? want to learn how to fix

 

It's blown fuse right?? want to learn how to fix

If you're lucky, all it is is a blown fuse. It's possible that you fried all the electronics.

 

If you're lucky, all it is is a blown fuse. It's possible that you fried all the electronics.

lol....it's still working

should return it to get new? or fix fuse?

 

First check the fuse, fuses are consumables

 

First check the fuse, fuses are consumables

Thinking maybe if open then void warranty

Anyways, fun to fix..will do tomorrow

Thanks for the thread

 

I bought one of these Vici VC99 multimeters
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32849087588.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32704298279.html
back in July 2018, still works very well - I am very pleased with it.

 

Thinking maybe if open then void warranty

Anyways, fun to fix..will do tomorrow

Thanks for the thread

Only if there's a tamper seal or sticker... if there is you may want to send it back instead. My guess is if it was working when you got it, it is possible that the fuse is blown which is not covered under warranty. But it may be covered by the sales terms... There's a 440mA fast blow fuse for the low current circuit. They're not cheap... about $7-8 online is what I've seen... replace with Fluke fuse would be good idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Combo-pack-D...ocphy=9052566&hvtargid=pla-323464552252&psc=1

 

I'd say it would be highly unlikely that changing a fuse would void any warranty since it is designed to be replaced. Some are more accessible that others.

 

I hate to recommend this cause there's a chance you can mess it up but you can short it temporarily and measure a low current to see if it works before changing it... also you can check the old fuse using it inline with a battery and maybe a 20mA LED with resistor??? or another meter.

If the fuse tests good then send it back... otherwise up to you whether you want to change fuse or ask for return or exchange.

 

I hate to recommend this cause there's a chance you can mess it up but you can short it temporarily and measure a low current to see if it works before changing it... also you can check the old fuse using it inline with a battery and maybe a 20mA LED with resistor??? or another meter.

If the fuse tests good then send it back... otherwise up to you whether you want to change fuse or ask for return or exchange.

Got 440mA fuse...old was 400mA
Think the fuse is bad cause connecting through led and resistor then no light when it was in the meter..although will test it again soon

 

I hate to recommend this cause there's a chance you can mess it up but you can short it temporarily and measure a low current to see if it works before changing it... also you can check the old fuse using it inline with a battery and maybe a 20mA LED with resistor??? or another meter.

If the fuse tests good then send it back... otherwise up to you whether you want to change fuse or ask for return or exchange.

Easy fix : wouldn't mind blowing it again

About the fuse test : saw could use continuity test...For the resistor and LED test, the two sides of the fuse is like two sides of any other component (like resistor) yeah?

"1000V fast acting fuse" : what it means? max of 1000V?