Update: Re-routed top layer, so soldering should be easy.

One down, one to go... Here's the schematic for board no. 2.

I'm not sure if I got the PDF for the top layer right. I get easily confused with the mirroring.

edit: Uploaded new bottom layer PDF

 

Finished drawing the other PCB in QCAD... Hope I got the mirroring right. Every trace is on the bottom layer, and I've not made a 'component-layer'. Let's hope I've done everything correct.

Now for the construction.

 

It's working...

Now... the other PCB...

 

I tried to make the other PCB, with the attached layout. It didn't work out the way I expected. I didn't have the proper wax paper, I didn't have the proper photopaper, and it was too big to fit in my regular etching arrangement.

I tried to etch one in the oven. In a ceramic form. I think the main issue was the toner transfer step... It was a hot experience for my hand, when I tried to agitate it. But I got no burns.

So I will split it into 3 smaller boards. One board with 9 LED's and the others with 8 LEDs each.

 

Jens,
I see you have the diodes on the PCB, but there is no provision for jumpers?

The idea Bill was trying to show is that jumpers can be added between the diodes and the base resistors to light up more than one LED at a time, making the LED display programmable by re-wiring jumpers.

It would probably be easiest to use something like a dual row of wire wrap headers after the diodes, and leave really thin traces between the two on the bottom side of the board, so by default they are connected, but easy to cut the trace with an X-acto knife.

 

With a serial 4017 counter string, you can't have more than one LED on at a time (see post #8 and #10), but you can have the same LED come on more than once during a sequence (a la Knight Rider). This is the purpose of the diodes, if I understand Bill's intention.

 

Jens,
I see you have the diodes on the PCB, but there is no provision for jumpers?

The idea Bill was trying to show is that jumpers can be added between the diodes and the base resistors to light up more than one LED at a time, making the LED display programmable by re-wiring jumpers.

Yes, I know. The jumpers will be, on this setup, from the PIN line.

It would probably be easiest to use something like a dual row of wire wrap headers after the diodes, and leave really thin traces between the two on the bottom side of the board, so by default they are connected, but easy to cut the trace with an X-acto knife.

And by thin traces, you mean how thin. Now I go as far down as 0.4mm. I'm not sure I can make it thinner, with my printer setup.

With a serial 4017 counter string, you can't have more than one LED on at a time (see post #8 and #10), but you can have the same LED come on more than once during a sequence (a la Knight Rider). This is the purpose of the diodes, if I understand Bill's intention.

This is how I understand it too.

 

When it is finished I will add Jens package to the end of my blog. I'll probably add a few of my own. It seems to be the most popular projects mentioned there. I'll just put them together using zip, and if Jens make a picture of the total package (a working PCB) I'll add that too by way of illustration.

Who knew this would develop an appendix?

 

... I'll just put them together using zip, and if Jens make a picture of the total package (a working PCB) I'll add that too by way of illustration.

...

Post #43 has a picture of a working PCB, and I will add more pictures, and maybe a small video link. I will try to document the best I can.

 

So this is the finished product.

The arrangement is a total of four PCB. One to control the sequence, and three to hold the LEDs, resistors and transistors.

I've made a video, you can see it here.

The titles on the attachment speaks for themselves.

 

And by thin traces, you mean how thin. Now I go as far down as 0.4mm. I'm not sure I can make it thinner, with my printer setup.

I see. I was thinking 10 mils, which is 0.254mm - but that could be a problem for DIY PCB'ers.

You might consider using a "copper pour" to reduce the etching time and the amount of etchant required. It's pretty easy to do using the Polygon tool.

 

I see. I was thinking 10 mils, which is 0.254mm - but that could be a problem for DIY PCB'ers.

Thats pretty thin. I use that size as an border around my boards. Haven't dared to make signal traces with them.

You might consider using a "copper pour" to reduce the etching time and the amount of etchant required. It's pretty easy to do using the Polygon tool.

I do that from time to time. This is one of the three LED boards:

 

I can not get the attachment to open.

I've been helping another OP on another thread with his LED sequencer. Turns out what he wants/needs is a lot less than what I was originally thinking (no harm there). However, I've started a side project as part of my LEDs, 555s, Flashers, and Light Chasers to have a PCB that is easy to use for a project similar to this. Since this isn't going to be used in the other thread I'm splitting it off.

OK, to start off with, here is the base design...

I've just finished redrawing the schematic in Express in anticipation of laying out the PCB. However, time for bed, so I'll upload it here and proof it tomorrow.

.

 

Which attachment?

 

Jens ran into a problem with footprint (I loved the LEDs on the board, I may still try it). I ran into a problem my board was getting to large, so I took a page from his ideas with a twist. I can use a 26 pin wire ribbon connector instead, and make the interface board on a second PCB. I've got 95% of it done, I just need to add the IDC connector. Since I planned for it it will be a piece of cake.

I think I will let the post count hit 70 before I post every thing (including the revised schematic). This will let me link my appendix to a clean sheet, so to speak.

Besides the IDC connector I have brought it down to a single sided PCB with around 7 or so jumpers. I'm also using 25 mil traces, and when I go between chip DIP pins 10 mil. Right now the board size looks like it will be around 4" X 4".

What was your board size Jens?

 

My controller board, is 81mm x 100mm.

Be posting more accurate measures after I've returned from my dads birthdayparty. He's 81 today, and still feeling 23-24...

 

This is the measures:

I have a 0.4mm trace around the board, as a border.

Hope this helps.

(BTW: Dinner menu at the birthday: Lobster for starter, Lamb for main course and Creme Bryle as dessert. I'm stuffed. )

 

(BTW: Dinner menu at the birthday: Lobster for starter, Lamb for main course and Creme Bryle as dessert. I'm stuffed. )

I like that.
Tonight is an Easter (I am a Christian, not a Muslim) banquet dinner and I will also be stuffed.

 

I'm a Christian too. So in Norway, it is a tradition to eat lamb these days. In the lamb my mother sticks garlic and rubs rosemary on the outside. (Don't know if its correct spelled, but it's a spice.)

 

When I woke today I looked all over the house for Easter Rabbit goodies but found none.

This afternoon my wife and her mother who is staying with us for a few months went to my daughter's house for an Easter dinner (with the Easter rabbit goodies) but my son and his wife didn't and instead went to a neighbour's for an Easter banquet.

I am staying home to run around with my two dogs, look at pretty young ladies on the internet and drink lots of beer.

Happy Easter everybody.