This project would not work for what you want to do.<snip>
would that be required in this project? Or something similar?
Please keep your project in the thread that you started.
This project would not work for what you want to do.<snip>
would that be required in this project? Or something similar?
Yes, I see. That would be a good idea....
However, there are a number of areas where wires overlap the NAME and VALUE fields; for example the base resistors. It would be a good idea to move the resistors close to the transistor bases so that there is more room for the text.
Natrional Semi in their LM555 datasheet says, "Adequate power supply bypassing is necessary to protect associated circuitry. Minimum recommended is 0.1μF in parallel with 1μF electrolytic".Wookie, the switching time of a 555 is measured in nanoseconds (as is the shoot through), and given the 555 is feeding CMOS and other high impedance loads, there is no loading on the output. In this case I believe a 0.1µF next to the chip twill suffice.
Argh... Remember now. Bill mentioned somewhere that the IC's had cap across their power connections...Oops - it looks like you have placed all of the capacitors right near the power connector; they should be right next to the IC's!
Thats an easy fix. Could I put this next to the power connector?The 555 timer needs a minimum of an 0.1uF and a 1uF cap across it's supply pins.
I've been quite familiar with the rip-up button, and rip-up all.Also, sorry but I forgot to mention that your schematic omitted the diodes and jumper positions where people could select which LEDs they wished to light up. That'll be some ripping-up and re-routing for all that stuff.
Yep, we have to practice what we preach. We still have newbies coming online that don't know about bypass capacitors, and how their absence will make for big problems. If we're posting projects that include board layouts, the caps have to be in place where they belong.Argh... Remember now. Bill mentioned somewhere that the IC's had cap across their power connections...
The 0.1uF cap should be as close as possible to the 555 timers' Vcc/GND pins. The 1uF cap can be a bit further away, but it should be pretty close by. Include a note that 1uF is the absolute minimum; it really should be larger.Thats an easy fix. Could I put this next to the power connector?
I know your pain.I've been quite familiar with the rip-up button, and rip-up all.
OK, good. Sorry I forgot to mention it earlier.Yes, I know. I meant to do that. I'm doing the fig 11.4.
Absolutely!Good thing the weekend is coming up.
Yes, I guess they are. I'm using a single of row pins, and I'll try to solder the female part to the ribbon-cable.Thank you guy. Aren't most ribbon connectors DIP (dual inline pins).
I might be wrong, but it is what I am familiar with.
It's dual layer, and I'm re-routing all traces from the sockets, so the soldering job will be "do-able". In another project, I experimented with the feed throughs. It was hard and not very good looking.Your board is a dual layer? If so, I would not have any feed throughs on the IC pins, as it would be very unsolderable with sockets. I'm thinking in terms of DIY PCB of course.
Yes, I am aware of that. I've checked around and the pricing for the Standard Edition is not too frightening. But, there are still some limitations. If I place all LED in a single row, the row will at minimum be 24 cm long. The standard edition has a 16 cm limitation... Guess I go for QCAD and the toner transfer method for this one.Side note of the difference between PCB Express and Eagle. Eagle is a pro package, and they cripple it because of this. Express wants you to use their service to make the PCB, and since they charge by the square inch there isn't the same size limitations. Express is also a lot easier to learn, although it is totally incompatible with Eagle. If I make this board it will be on one board, since Express doesn't have the artificial limitation you are fighting.
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz