What exactly are you using now for power and charging?
Do you want to use a power supply for the primary power with battery backup?

6x21700 batteries with BMS (to run for a work day without wires)
24v 5a charger/power supply

 

So how do you want to improve that?

 

So how do you want to improve that?

In the rare event where you have no or drained batteries, running on charger and you have a power failure, it would be best to start up in off mode.

 

Well the circuit does that now and the current drain when OFF is only appx 100 micro amps.

 

Well the circuit does that now and the current drain when OFF is only appx 100 micro amps.

Thanks, but I don't think so. If I disconnect and connect the 24v it starts up in an arbitrary state (at least on breadboard).
And if it's only minor changes that are required, why not just do them ?

 

Try this mod adding C3, R2 and D1.

 

Try this mod adding C3, R2 and D1.
View attachment 290390

Thanks. Will do tomorrow.

 

If you use the POR it will force the 4017 to start up at pin 3 (output 0) which is connected to the audio MOSFET according to the schematic.

 

That should do the trick.

And switch the connections to BIT 1 and BIT 2 rather than BIT 0. I'll post connections later.

 

Ok

 

Audio to pin 2.
Lighting to pin 4.

 

Here is my take on the schematic with the added power-on reset circuit.

The schematic is based on components available in JLC's virtually free assembly service; all components are in stock currently, and components in the "basic" category are used wherever possible. Basic components are kept loaded on the pick&place machines; "extended" components must be loaded into a pick&place machines to assemble the boards, so there's a $3/lot upcharge. 0805 resistors and caps, and an SOIC package for the CD4017 have been used so hand-soldering is possible. The board should still be small enough to fit in the available space.

I'm not 100% certain about the cap for the POR reset, but it's not critical. Testing before having boards made is recommended. I need a complete datasheet for the switch to determine the LED's series resistor. I believe the metal trim is 8mm thick. The button of the switch is 8.2mm above the pcb. If no through-hole components are used, the switch could be mounted directly to the circuit board, and the board adhered to the metal trim. See the sketch in the schematic. Again, I believe everything should fit in the space available. A surface mount termination for the cables would need to be determined for this to work.

See the attached pdf.

Jon - Champion of lost puppy dogs and causes

 

Note: Q2 is way overkill for the "lights", but it's cheap and eliminates the need for one extended part.

 

If I had been aware of the fact that I was assisting in the development of a commercial product, my professional fee schedule would have been involved. Assisting those in the design of products for commercial sales is totally different from assisting an individual with a personal project.
The TS owes this forum "Big Time".

 

Note: Q2 is way overkill for the "lights", but it's cheap and eliminates the need for one extended part.

Need a pull-down resistor at the junction of D1 and D2.

 

If I had been aware of the fact that I was assisting in the development of a commercial product, my professional fee schedule would have been involved. Assisting those in the design of products for commercial sales is totally different from assisting an individual with a personal project.
The TS owes this forum "Big Time".

True, but right now I need to build 12 prototypes first from my own money and limited time to get started, so all help is deeply appreciated (and necessary). And this is unfortunately only a small part of the big puzzle. If or until this project with some luck takes of commercially, it is still only my personal project.

Now I feel almost bad about asking if somebody wants to help me make a very small PCB from Jon Chandlers design, after I have tested it on breadboard ? I fully understand if some don't. I can only hope that some also see my point of view, and remember if they one day come and ask for my help I will be able to help them and have fun together.

 

My intention is to give you the EasyEDA schematic file. It has all the parts selected, including the pcb footprints for all the components. It will be up to YOU to take it from there. "But it's too hard. I don't have the software. I don't know how to....." it's time to learn.

One thing that still seems to be lacking here – you don't answers many questions, at least not fully, and you ignore requests for things like the switch datasheet.

 

Sorry. I guess it is time to learn (there is just so many other details i.e. had to learn how to use a Shapeoko 4 XXL router, crossover design and audio testing, balancing passive radiators, programming bluetooth modules, fireproofing and balancing 21700 li-ion batteries, printing silicone strip front cover canvas, etc. All fun, but time consuming)
EaglePCB or KiCad ?
I did not see the request for the switch datasheet. Do you mean this or something else ?

 

The switch has an LED, yes?

In order to choose a series resistor for an LED, you need to know the properties of the LED, yes?

The drawing you posted shows MECHANICAL details. Do you see any electrical details? I don't.

 

Not sure. Think I have to ask seller or maybe measure ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001670501797.html