I know, I need the cap to smooth out the ripple u know . But I will confirm after scoping whether the cap is needed or not.

Mike was talking about the disadvantage of using a full wave rectifier instead of just halfwave. I also dislike halfwave rectification, but in this case I'd give preference of experience over aesthetics. You'll never get rid of the ripple using simple methods, but as long as it's well within TTL specs it should be fine.

 

Scope checking reveals that both caps are needed to smooth out the ripple.
Without either cap there is a little (negligible) ripple

 

I managed to get the PCB done for the prototype. This is just 1 pcb.
Do not ask about the cutting. I do not have a cutter. Tried with a saw and it went south
And the drill I bought is creating more holes around beside where it is suppose to.
So I used drill bit holder and drilled using just my hand
Populated the AC detector and it works. The PIC part is yet to test. Need to write the code.

Will try to finish the PSU and charger. I still need some components though. Waiting for them to arrive.

Just thought I'll show you guys

 

Nice, @R!f@@.

How does it feel? Etching your own boards.

 

Do not ask about the cutting. I do not have a cutter.

You don't need a special cutter, all you need is a box-cutter knife.
Scourge one side of the PCB, making at least 5 or 6 passes so that the blade penetrates to 1/4 of the board's thickness. Then turn it around and scourge the other side, overlapping exactly the line on the opposite side. Bend the board with your hands until it snaps, and you're done!

 

You don't need a special cutter, all you need is a box-cutter knife.
Scourge one side of the PCB, making at least 5 or 6 passes so that the blade penetrates to 1/4 of the board's thickness. Then turn it around and scourge the other side, overlapping exactly the line on the opposite side. Bend the board with your hands until it snaps, and you're done!

This way is hard to do if you just need to remove < 10mm. If you hit the opposite side perfect, it makes nice cuts though. I like to use a circular saw. Rigged upside-down, like a table saw.

 

Etching my own boards is rather hectic than I thought.
Too bad it wasn't me who did the boards. I had friend do it. Since he had the positive transfer types. I am still on the verge of trying. I still need a good thermal transfer unit. So for now he said he will make what I need. Help works both ways.

I had to cut the board. I cannot too ask too much. So I tried to cut and drill. Lessons learned. Next time it will be better.

 

This way is hard to do if you just need to remove < 10mm. If you hit the opposite side perfect, it makes nice cuts though. I like to use a circular saw. Rigged upside-down, like a table saw.

Actually, there's a technique for that too. See if I can express myself better by enumerating steps:

1. Using a metal ruler, scourge one side, making sure that the knife traces the complete length of the board, all the way to its extremes.
2. With the knife, make two deep cuts at the board's extremes, where the line previously scourged ends (with the knife horizontal at the very edge of the board, while the board is standing up on the work table). This way, both cuts will be visible at the other side of the board too.
3. Flip the board on its other side, and align the ruler using the two previously made cuts as guides.
4. Scourge that side
5. Bend a break

Got it?

 

Got it?

Yes, I got you the first time. I only said it can be hard to break if you cut off a thin strip.

 

Yes, I got you the first time. I only said it can be hard to break if you cut off a thin strip.

Ah... for a thin strip, you use pliers to break it off!

 

where do you get the power for the pic from?

 

where do you get the power for the pic from?

There is one more board. It contains the PSU and charger. This PCB is the AC detector and the PIC controller.

 

Second one done


Unfortunately, I left 2 resistors and a connector out . Guess that is why Ver.1 is for, EH !
Good news, The PCB tested OK. All the voltages are within the spec I designed it for .

Burn in test will be done after the heatsink is mounted. Soon.

But a draw back I id not anticipated. Having diodes, even for a schottky, at the output of high current regulator means too much loss. So I added one more in parallel and seems better.

 

Nice.
Do the jumper wires have any coating? I guess you have 8...

 

Not yet buddy.
And I was thinking about that part.
I will coat it with electronic varnish spray after a thorough testing.
And may be I will make another board since there were component holes misalignment. Time will tell.

 

I use a spray from Würth. Transparent coating. Just a short spray, and I let it dry.

 

Hey, those look pretty good! Well done. You can get Teflon tubing to cover the bare jumpers . In a pinch, just strip insulation off a bigger gauge wire and slip it on.