You couldn't make this up...

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,505
The benefit of using #10 wire, which indeed would normally be overkill, is that it better carries the heat away from the connection. And the connection on the heater end does get quite hot, which is why it fails. So there is a reason why a foot of oversized wireis a better choice here.
 

Thread Starter

Irving

Joined Jan 30, 2016
5,109
The benefit of using #10 wire, which indeed would normally be overkill, is that it better carries the heat away from the connection. And the connection on the heater end does get quite hot, which is why it fails. So there is a reason why a foot of oversized wireis a better choice here.
A properly crimped connection and a correctly supported wiring harness that isn't stressing either the joint or the wire shouldn't fail. I get your point about over-sizing it for both thermal and mechanical reasons as a repair, but from a manufacturing viewpoint that's not going to be cost effective.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
10,235
A properly crimped connection and a correctly supported wiring harness that isn't stressing either the joint or the wire shouldn't fail. I get your point about over-sizing it for both thermal and mechanical reasons as a repair, but from a manufacturing viewpoint that's not going to be cost effective.
They need to get into the modern world and make it wireless!

Oh, wait. You tried wireless and it doesn’t work. I am sure it just needs a software update!
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,505
Now THAT I can support. Wireless. Good call Nikola.
It is not reasonable to expect a wireless power connection to a 1200 or more electric heater element. And that hot connection is what caused the failure in the first place. I have repaired that exact failure on that model and so I am well aware that it is a basic design flaw coupled with the wrong choice for materials.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,505
Top