Hello all,

I'm ashamed by my confusion, a brand new electrical appliance, received today, was damaged .... 220 V instead of 120 V. Some blew inside, after a while I opened the case and detached the supply unit, where a capacitor was damaged. No idea about its value, therefore I'm asking for help. The marking on the PCB is ZNR1, is this a Zener diode ?

 

Voltage/surge limiter

 

Welcome to AAC!

The marking on the PCB is ZNR1, is this a Zener diode ?

It's probably an MOV.

 

Welcome to AAC!
It's probably an MOV.

Thanks ! What should I buy ? The fuse next to it seems unaffected, so I need a MOV for AC 100 V to 120 V ? I don't have the faintest idea ...

 

Voltage/surge limiter

Thanks ! These MOV are of many values, what should I buy ? I have no electrical diagram ...

 

You need to know the normal operating voltage for one, 120v ? you may get one at the local TV repair store.

 

You need to know the normal operating voltage for one, 120v ? you may get one at the local TV repair store.

Thanks, I'll do it tomorrow !

 

You need to explain the situation more clearly in detail.
In what country are you?
What is your country's AC line voltage and frequency?
What is the appliance?
What voltage is the appliance designed to accept?

 

The fuse next to it seems unaffected

Check its resistance with a multimeter.

so I need a MOV for AC 100 V to 120 V ? I don't have the faintest idea

Measure the diameter of the existing MOV. That reduces the choices in the Panasonic catalog.

 

You need to explain the situation more clearly in detail.
In what country are you?
What is your country's AC line voltage and frequency?
What is the appliance?
What voltage is the appliance designed to accept?

I'm in Europe, RO. The line is 220 V, 60 Hz. I've made a mistake when making the order )) I take it the appliance is accepting 120 V, it's a coffee roaster of 1500 W power.

 

There will be a few more components thay may have been affected!
Worth a shot to change the VDR anyway.

 

Check its resistance with a multimeter.
Measure the diameter of the existing MOV. That reduces the choices in the Panasonic catalog.
View attachment 353303
View attachment 353304
View attachment 353305

Thanks Dennis, the diameter is 14 mm.

 

Thanks Dennis, the diameter is 14 mm.

That would narrow it down to ERZV14D241 or ERZV14D271. Personally, I'd go for the first one (lower voltage).

 

you may get one at the local TV repair store.

They still have those?

 

That would narrow it down to ERZV14D241 or ERZV14D271. Personally, I'd go for the first one (lower voltage).

Thanks again, Dennis !
A friend just told me now this power supply should function even without the blown piece, but he fears other components downstream may be damaged ... and I should clean the PCB, the carbon creates short circuits on it. What do you think ?

Best regards,

Marius

P.S. He asked me also: why use a fuse of 220 V for a 120 V line supply ? ) I don't have the faintest idea The fuse seems unaffected.

 

That would narrow it down to ERZV14D241 or ERZV14D271. Personally, I'd go for the first one (lower voltage).

You need to know the normal operating voltage for one, 120v ? you may get one at the local TV repair store.

We have no repair stores today (it's a dead chapter !), but small shops with electronic components.

 

Fuses are meant to protect against high current (greater than 15 A in this case), not voltage. The voltage rating means that the fuse will withstand 250 V.

Applying 220 V on a circuit designed to operate on 120 V usually means that the circuit is toast.

BTW, Europe power is commonly 230 V @ 50 Hz.

 

Fuses are meant to protect against high current (greater than 15 A in this case), not voltage. The voltage rating means that the fuse will withstand 250 V.

Applying 220 V on a circuit designed to operate on 120 V usually means that the circuit is toast.

BTW, Europe power is commonly 230 V @ 50 Hz.

I thought the appliance is designed for 220V by default, forgetting it's coming from the USA

 

A friend just told me now this power supply should function even without the blown piece, but he fears other components downstream may be damaged ... and I should clean the PCB, the carbon creates short circuits on it. What do you think ?

It is possible that the device would work after the MOV was removed, provided there was no other damage. The intent is for it to protect the device from over voltage. If the fuse wasn't blown, it might work.

He asked me also: why use a fuse of 220 V for a 120 V line supply ?

It could be an effort by the manufacturer to reduce the number of parts it stocks.

 

Generally the way they are used the appliance will work with out it for test purposes, power up on 120VAC and trace circuit for other problems, if any.