I assume you are in N.A. ?
What is the model of the T.M. controller? Some are capable of pot control.
Most of these controllers, both by KB and the T.M. themselves plug directly into 120vac socket.
The simple PWM controllers on ebay for ~$5.00 are have no type of sophisticated control.
Send a pic of the T.M. board.
Max.

 

I assume you are in N.A. ?
What is the model of the T.M. controller? Some are capable of pot control.
Most of these controllers, both by KB and the T.M. themselves plug directly into 120vac socket.
The simple PWM controllers on ebay for ~$5.00 are have no type of sophisticated control.
Send a pic of the T.M. board.
Max.

Here are pictures as requested
.

 

There is a member here that used to respond to T.M. post and he once worked for Johnson Motors, he may be able to identify the drive and have a solution using a Pot, I do not recall what he posts under, I will see if I can find it.
Max.

 

There is a member here that used to respond to T.M. post and he once worked for Johnson Motors, he may be able to identify the drive and have a solution using a Pot, I do not recall what he posts under, I will see if I can find it.
Max.

Thank you.

While it would be great (and cost effective) to use the controller I already have, I'm not adverse to finding (buying) another controller to run this particular DC drive. Commercial pottery wheels can run well over $1,000, so I do have some headroom to play with. Is that possible?

 

Then there is the simple popular pot type of T.M. such as the MC-80 or the also popular range of KB controllers, both of which regularly come up on ebay.
Max.

 

I've gotten my hands on a lot of tread mills on Craigs List that people didn't want.

I have a bandsaw that had a bad motor. Would cost $180 for a new motor (3/4 horse). I noticed the pulley on the motor was the same as what's on a tread mill. So of those DC motors I had (and scrapped many more) I welded up a bracket and mounted it to my treadmill. MINE has two blue wires that are used for thermal protection. If the motor gets too hot the thermal switch cuts power to the motor. The red wire and black wire (on mine) were the motor connections. Hook them up right and the motor turns clockwise. Wire them up reversed and the motor will spin counter-clockwise.

My bandsaw is now variable speed (though not needed). I used the control board from the same treadmill and used a 10K pot to control motor speed. On my control board there are three small wires, red, white and black. The red and black set up the range and the white selects the speed. When I turn my treadmill on it doesn't start up unless I adjust the speed all the way to zero. Then I can turn it up to whatever speed I like. This would work well on your lathe too. But everything i have came out of an old treadmill someone no longer wanted in their house. I've also used a lot of the scrap metal to build different things.

I'd suggest (for ease of setup) grabbing one of those treadmills that nobody wants and gut it. Be sure to take the main control board (the one the motor is hooked to) as well as the very heavy choke. Make sure you carefully note the position of every wire, so that when you assemble your final version of a variable speed lathe you know what wires go where. Just remember the small red, black and white wires are for controlling the speed. You'll need the 10K pot to control the motor.

 

. I used the control board from the same treadmill and used a 10K pot to control motor speed. On my control board there are three small wires, red, white and black. The red and black set up the range and the white selects the speed. When I turn my treadmill on it doesn't start up unless I adjust the speed all the way to zero.
I'd suggest (for ease of setup) grabbing one of those treadmills that nobody wants and gut it. Be sure to take the main control board (the one the motor is hooked to) as well as the very heavy choke. .

That's OK if it is has a controller similar to the MC-60/80 etc, but some are like the OP's which could be PWM control in.
Max.

 

Then there is the simple popular pot type of T.M. such as the MC-80 or the also popular range of KB controllers, both of which regularly come up on ebay.
Max.

Max,
Found this on EBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KB-Electron...389d2d6&pid=100005&rk=6&rkt=6&sd=221683588441

Specs appear to be in line.

 

That is just a fused terminal board, no controller on it or included.
Ma.

 

The KBIC-120 is a low end of the KB but should work for you.
I thought at first it was just a terminal/fuse board.
Max.

 

The KBIC-120 is a low end of the KB but should work for you.
I thought at first it was just a terminal/fuse board.
Max.

For the money, it is worth a try. The pottery wheel is for my granddaughter, so money isn't all that big of a deal.

A couple of more questions for you:
1. Says it is rated at 12ADC with auxillary heat sink. I'm assuming I just mount the heat sink to the circuit board mounting frame?

2. Potentiometer - Can I use an off-the-shelf 10k pot or is there something special required?

If and when I get the controller (bid is in, but 5 day wait), I may be getting back to you regarding wiring to motor.

Max, I really want to thank you. Your input has been great and hopefully, I'll get this think going in the not too distant future.

Darryl

 

Can I use an off-the-shelf 10k pot or is there something special required?

No need for anything fancy. A standard 10KΩ pot will work just fine. As for figuring out how to wire the motor, I'm guessing here, but hook two leads of the motor to a DC meter. Spin the motor. If you get a voltage (provided the motor has a permanent magnet) then you'll see a voltage. If you find two leads that give you a voltage then you've probably found the leads that power the motor. Again, I'm guessing, so don't run off half cocked. Just make sure you KNOW what wires do what. From there the rest should be logical and easy.

I think I am going to go quiet on this subject - I doubt there's anything more I can offer that may be of use.

 

A couple of more questions for you:
1. Says it is rated at 12ADC with auxillary heat sink. I'm assuming I just mount the heat sink to the circuit board mounting frame?

2. Potentiometer - Can I use an off-the-shelf 10k pot or is there something special required?

Darryl

Just ensure it is a linear pot and not logarithmic, although at that value they usually are.

It already has a heat sink frame, if you can mount it on a metalic base, all the better.
Max.