Do you think this lcr meter would do the job? Don't have one yet. LCR Meter

 

That's similar to mine. Not hugely accurate but good enough to ID a part against standard value lists. Useful to have around, I always check SMD parts with one as can never be sure they've not got mixed up in box. Go for it...

 

That's similar to mine. Not hugely accurate but good enough to ID a part against standard value lists. Useful to have around, I always check SMD parts with one as can never be sure they've not got mixed up in box. Go for it...

LOL well that's good because I ordered it 2 hours ago lol. Thanks again for all of the help! If you don't mind, I'll have more questions. I'll post back after I measure the inductance.

 

No problem

 

OK I got the results. Appears to be 4.9uH.i did not remove the voltage regulator since it is already creating an open circuit.

 

This is a 100uH to show the accuracy of the meter. One is with the test leads and the other is using the pin socket on the meter.

 

Also I think this capacitor is bad. I beleive it is supposed to be a 100uF capacitor. What are you thoughts? I attached two other capacitor readings that should be 100uF as well and they measure pretty close to that.

 

Excellent!

On the face of it that cap does appear to be bad. Which one is it? How sure are you that the reading isn't being affected by the components around it?

 

Excellent!

On the face of it that cap does appear to be bad. Which one is it? How sure are you that the reading isn't being affected by the components around it?

I can't be positive that I'm not reading another value for the capacitance without removing it from the board. By that point though, I might as well replace it regardless after I remove it.

Could that cap be the culprit for why the voltage regulator failed?

Was that inductance value able to help you determine what voltage regulator I should use to replace the bad one?

 

It will help, but it's 4am here and I have a busy schedule today so I'll look into it as soon as I have a few min to spare.

It's quite possible that was the culprit. If you can, trace out which power line its on.

 

It will help, but it's 4am here and I have a busy schedule today so I'll look into it as soon as I have a few min to spare.

It's quite possible that was the culprit. If you can, trace out which power line its on.

Oh by no means was I expecting an answer right now! Was actually surprised to see you reply this late. I am just really appreciated for any help and thank you again for taking so much time to help me with this!

Thank you again!

 

We have a match! As a check, can you measure C92 as well please.

 

C92 is measuring the same as C94 at about 377uF. It makes me beleive im measuring something else in the circuit.

 

hmm, yes.. I was hoping it would be 10uF

Its across 3.3v Vout to ground, so C92 and C94 are in parallel so should add together, but 377u sounds high. Maybe remove C94 and check again?

Anyway the replacement chip, I am fairly sure, is this Torex manufactured one from Mouser . Its the only family of similar chips that use 4.7uH inductors, everyone else uses 1, 2.2 or 10uH.

Edit:Fixed link

 

Awsome, thank you so much! I might try and remove that cap. I'll let you know if I do. Otherwise, hopefully this regulator does the job.

 

hmm, yes.. I was hoping it would be 10uF

Its across 3.3v Vout to ground, so C92 and C94 are in parallel so should add together, but 377u sounds high. Maybe remove C94 and check again?

Anyway the replacement chip, I am fairly sure, is this Torex manufactured one from Mouser . Its the only family of similar chips that use 4.7uH inductors, everyone else uses 1, 2.2 or 10uH.

Edit:Fixed link

Good news! It's working! Had some issues at first because I didn't do a good Job of saldering the new smd chip. But I went back over it 2 or 3 times and now I have a good connection.

Couldn't attach the. Mp4 file so here is a link to it of the board working. Video of board working.

I thought about testing the voltages but I don't want to risk ruining something.

 

I forgot I had the test points on back. Here is the 3.3v and 1.8v test point measurements. Looks good enough to me!

 

Thank you again Irving! Really appreciate all your time and help in fixing my overly priced headset!

 

You're welcome. Lets hope it stays working, we never got to bottom of why it failed exactly...

 

You're welcome. Lets hope it stays working, we never got to bottom of why it failed exactly...

Before I remembered that it used a USB port for power, I found a connector that was 5v and 2a out. I used that figuring it would work. Maybe too much current fried it? I can't imagine 2a was out of its limits?

I don't know. It works currently so I'm just going to stay blissfully ignorant lol.