Hi.
The problem is that the motor stuck on and all that blue stuff files the pan and overflowed...more than once. Found lots of electronics on a board under the on\off flush switch and am thinking about simply sticking a basic on\off switch from batteries to motor terminals. Why not is the question. Why a circuit board with chips and transistors etc? Makes me nervous to bypass it all. Thought I'd check in with someone here first. Thanks

 

If the windshield wipers in a car run on microcontrollers, it is not surprising a porta potty does too.

The problem is that without anything else to go on, what sort of answer do you want? One approach is to "just do it." But that might make a mess. Are there sequential processes, like a motor, valves, fluid dispenser and so forth all acting in an orchestrated sequence? If so, then a simple on/off switch might lead to diminished performance and wasted chemicals.

Can you provide more information and pictures. It is possible the motor stayed on for a reason, such as a stuck valve or sensor or maybe a burned component on the circuit board.

 

Hi,
I did take a picture of the circuit board. I'll try and attach. As far as I can tell the micro switch turns on a motor that pumps the liquid from a reservoir into the bowl. I will try bypassing it shortly. Won't have my soldering iron with me till a fortnight's time. I hacked the micro switch off the board and isit made no difference. The pump still switches on the instant you put the batteries back in place.

 

If there is no sensor to sense when the bowl is full then it is simply a timed power switch and the circuit is bad.
Here are your options:

1) Get a new potty
2) Replace the board
3) Trouble-shoot the board starting with the driver transistor
4) Replace the board with a heavy duty momentary pushbutton

 

Thanks folks. You've put my mind at ease. My wife says there is a slight delay after taking your finger off the button. Momentary push button is the simple solution then definitely. Just didn't realise there was that second delay so wondered what the hell all that circuitry was for. Being a bloke and not wanting to empty the loo so often guess I didn't flush so much.
Thanks again

 

If the windshield wipers in a car run on microcontrollers, it is not surprising a porta potty does too.

That conjured up a vision of an auto bum-wiper accessory on the potty .

 

The latest description (post #5) leads me to think the delay is precisely to avoid having those chemicals do that.

 

If there is no sensor to sense when the bowl is full then it is simply a timed power switch and the circuit is bad.
Here are your options:

1) Get a new potty

Correction. Get a new old tech potty that does not require a freaking circuit board! What is wrong with a potty you have to mannually pump to flush?

 

Hi.
The problem is that the motor stuck on and all that blue stuff files the pan and overflowed...more than once. Found lots of electronics on a board under the on\off flush switch and am thinking about simply sticking a basic on\off switch from batteries to motor terminals. Why not is the question. Why a circuit board with chips and transistors etc? Makes me nervous to bypass it all. Thought I'd check in with someone here first. Thanks

 

Hi there guys. I read all the threads and then did a few tests. Bottom line is I have bypassed the silly circuit board that seems to only offer the ability to keep the pump running for 1 second. I fitted a new push switch to the plate. There are four wires that go to the flush side of the circuit board. They are gathered together on the slide on connector that goes to the circuit board. One wire is the Red Live +12V feed that comes via the fuse that is tucked away in the cavity that contains the cassette. The second is the black wire which is the Ground Negative wire. The third is the blue wire that takes the negative to the pump motor. Lastly the brown wire that takes +12V to the pump motor. I joined the black and blue together. I then placed the brown wire to one side of a new push switch and finally the Red Live +12V to the other side of the switch. I retained the part of the circuit board that passes on the signal that the cassette is full. This is another connector with two smaller black wires. Total success. Just be careful that the underside of the switch does not foul on the other bits below it. I also glued a little white cap over the original blue push button.

Hi.
The problem is that the motor stuck on and all that blue stuff files the pan and overflowed...more than once. Found lots of electronics on a board under the on\off flush switch and am thinking about simply sticking a basic on\off switch from batteries to motor terminals. Why not is the question. Why a circuit board with chips and transistors etc? Makes me nervous to bypass it all. Thought I'd check in with someone here first. Thanks

 

I replaced part of the circuit with a simple push switch. The circuit board seems to only serve as a device to keep the pump running for at least a second. Unnecessary over kill. I covered the existing blue switch with a white cap. The rest of the circuit board is still there giving the "cassette full" warning light. See picture of finished modification. The switch cost $10.95 from Jaycar, Part Number SP0756.