One more addition to the repair induction (wireless) power system. A car voltage monitor.
https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/productdetail?partno=DMS-20PC-8-DCM-C

 

One more addition to the repair induction (wireless) power system. A car voltage monitor.
https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/productdetail?partno=DMS-20PC-8-DCM-C
View attachment 323427

Oh WOW!!! How much of that will be in the EVs we will be forced to buy?? Or will all of the functions be compressed into one $3000 module that is only replaced, never repaired??

 

Oh WOW!!! How much of that will be in the EVs we will be forced to buy?? Or will all of the functions be compressed into one $3000 module that is only replaced, never repaired??

The 'car' here is a wafer transport vehicle. It's obsolete so there are no new replacement modules/boards at any cost. The repair station being built here is a last step life extension before total system replacement costing millions.

 

THAT is a MAJOR relief! Because we KNOW that all the service parts for EVs are going to be horribly expensive.

 

THAT is a MAJOR relief! Because we KNOW that all the service parts for EVs are going to be horribly expensive.

Going to be? They are horribly expensive from the OEM if you can get them. You are correct, most EV power modules, batteries, etc... are not designed for repair but as more cars are scrapped there will be people that will offer service and repair out of the OEM stream using rebuilds and eventually aftermarket/ third-party replacement modules.

 

Relax. The chinese will make the aftermarket parts at laughing prices. In US, they will want to profit 10 times the cost.

 

Stress fracture of knobs. A well known problem with this old scope.

3D print some new ones. Tried Carbon Fiber (black) but too tricky to get precise control of the printing.



Two sizes printed. Looks pretty good.
I think I used this STL file: https://www.printables.com/model/137991-oscilloscope-knob-tek/files

 

Stress fracture of knobs. A well known problem with this old scope.
View attachment 323673
3D print some new ones. Tried Carbon Fiber (black) but too tricky to get precise control of the printing.
View attachment 323674
View attachment 323675
View attachment 323676
Two sizes printed. Looks pretty good.
I think I used this STL file: https://www.printables.com/model/137991-oscilloscope-knob-tek/files

Aren't there some equivalent sized, cast aluminum versions of those knobs?

 

@nsaspook Thanks for the link to the stl files. I have a couple of TDS220 with split knobs. I will give it a try.

 

Aren't there some equivalent sized, cast aluminum versions of those knobs?

I've never seen alum replacements for the old TDS series knobs but I'm sure you could find something.
They are all the push-on, plastic to plastic type online for sale that mainly matches the originals.
https://www.amazon.com/LICHIFIT-Replacement-Oscilloscope-Tektronix-TDS2012/dp/B0B8RKH7BZ

The 3D version is a lot cheaper per knob to make if you already have the equipment.

 

@nsaspook Thanks for the link to the stl files. I have a couple of TDS220 with split knobs. I will give it a try.

I printed light grey knobs for the Tektronix TDS220. They turned out well. Thanks.

 

The clothesdryer died yesterday. Open heating element. It is ~$20, not bad.



But preferred to join the ends of the gapped heating element with one of these, ($0.60) with the mounting tab sawed off :




Done it before and lasted 14 years. Splicing, not replacing. There is a chance that failed on a brutal sunny day when my solar panels are putting like 252V to the grid... Done, works, am happy.

 

Greetings...

A friend asked me to turn his broken 40" TV into a ceiling lamp after seeing some I did in my basement.
This was not a easy one for and old fart with degrading poor vision and shaking hands, but like a litre of sweat and hundred screws later :





The TV had 2 bad back LED emitters. Replaced them painfully in butcher style as have no thousand dollars reflow/remover equipment nor plan to for a few times a year need, nor willing to order new strips at $19.99 plus $19.99999 shipping.
Spare strips got sections cut out with the LEDs on them, attached on the recipient strip, wired mickymouse style and glued. Error code did not show any more. Well, the TV worked with half a screen image and saw a cracked corner display. So salvaging the TV was not a plan any more.
Continued to remove/discard the glass screen and buttoned up for the thinghy to become a backlit advertisement on the window of his bicycle repair shop. Happy.

 

This morning , about 7:20 AM, I lashed the exhaust pipe back up into place on an old lady's car. It is one of those with the muffler get fed in the middle and she backed into something HARD and knocked one side loose from it's hook. If I bent the rusty tail pipe back it would break and so I just lashed it up so it would not drag or rattle. It is a good short term fix. aND I know she will get it all fixed because the cosmetic damage is worse.
Yesterday I replaced a leaking garbage disposal grinder. Last week I investigated a refrigerated sandwich build cooler that trips the GFCI when it goes into the defrost mode. I DO NOT sit around and watch TV. Instead I try to answer technical questions here. Much better mental exercise.

 

If I posted everything I fixed each day it would make AAC forums rather boring. So I don't bother. I am only going to post the very intricate or exotic fixes.

 

Snapped the trash pail lid back onto its hinge so when you step on the pedal the lid rises to attention.

 

Greetings...

A friend asked me to turn his broken 40" TV into a ceiling lamp after seeing some I did in my basement.
This was not a easy one for and old fart with degrading poor vision and shaking hands, but like a litre of sweat and hundred screws later :

View attachment 327267

View attachment 327266

The TV had 2 bad back LED emitters. Replaced them painfully in butcher style as have no thousand dollars reflow/remover equipment nor plan to for a few times a year need, nor willing to order new strips at $19.99 plus $19.99999 shipping.
Spare strips got sections cut out with the LEDs on them, attached on the recipient strip, wired mickymouse style and glued. Error code did not show any more. Well, the TV worked with half a screen image and saw a cracked corner display. So salvaging the TV was not a plan any more.
Continued to remove/discard the glass screen and buttoned up for the thinghy to become a backlit advertisement on the window of his bicycle repair shop. Happy.

I made a ceiling light like that for my workbench. Found a flatscreen TV in a skip, and guessed it would have a faulty backlight and the rest would be working and assumed I could bring it back to life by fixing the power supply for the backlight. The reverse was true: the backlight worked and the fault was in the ribbon cables to the LCD matrix, so I removed the LCD matrix - et voilà - a ceiling light.

 

Original repair postings
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/what-did-you-repair-today.194969/post-1910496

Replace the test power coil wire with something better.
4 AWG 5X5X72/36 LITZ wire, 1800 strands of 30 AWG polyurethane-coated wire.

https://www.newenglandwire.com/traditional-litz-wire-theory/
Traditional Litz Wire Theory
The in's and out's of traditional Litz wire design

Litz wire construction consisting of 450 strands of 40 AWG single-film polyurethane-coated wire

This construction, designed with two bunching operations and one cabling operation, would be written 5×3/30/40 (NEW uses “x” to indicate a cabling operation and “/” to indicate a bunching operation).

Flux the end

Let the solder melt off the insulation of the 1800 individual strands and tin the ends

Clean up the tinned cable for terminal soldering.

Anderson power connector solder cup.

Soldered using a hot air gun.

power cable disconnect

'Wireless' power from the Sony audio amp to a single turn primary loop power pickup. The secondary of the car pickup also uses LITZ wire.

~110 watts @10kHz for full car voltage. Lower losses for the primary induction coil by using LITZ wire to reduce the AC impedance of the single turn feed wire.

 

I see that the spool does say "Litz Wire", and I find that totally amazing that it is available in such a large size. I have used super-flex that looks very similar.

And now, what did I fix today??
A few days back a friend gave me a broken light bulb and asked if I could make it light again. The saving detail was that it was an LED bulb from a parking lot post light, and it had been knocked loose when somebody bumped the post with their car.Inside was a large heat sink with strips of aluminum PCB , each having 28 LED chips bonded to it and all connected in parallel it appeared. two terminals at one end marked + and -, and so I connected a power supply set to 3 volts, then slowly increased the voltage. With less than 4 volts the whole strip lit a bright white. I did not measure the current yet, but it is interesting that a large light bulb would have arrays of LEDs in parallel. About 8 of them.
I thought lighting up a broken light bulb was quite a big deal.

 

That lookslike "Super-Flex" wire, rather than Litz wire. In the litz wire I have come across, each strand is insulated, while in the SuperFlex wire they are not insulated, which makes terminating it much simpler.

What, are you daft? It is LITZ wire. (big hint, look at the wire spool) Each stand is insulated and that 15 feet is like $150.
https://www.newenglandwire.com/litz-wire-termination-guide/