I repaired a "burned out" Simpson model 720 ammeter package. If was really cheap because the seller said that the meter "must be fried, because it does not move at all". But since it still had an internal current transformer and four nice terminals it was worth what I paid for it.
I measured across the ten amp range terminals and it read open.
I opened the case and checked the meter resistance. less than an ohm.
So I decided to check the range switch to see of that was the problem. The range switch selects either the ten amp terminals or the 200amp current transformer or off. It is a heavy-duty 3 position-center off double pole toggle switch. No continuity between any terminals in any position. That was the problem. I did not open the switch, I shot quite a bit of contact cleaner in next to the toggle lever. After several shots and a lot of exercising it, IT WORKS!!!
Given the age, my guess is that the electrical grease inside had solidified and formed an insulating film.
Not the simplest repair ever, but certainly in the running for an easy repair with an incorrect initial diagnosis .
AND A Good deal as well. Now I need the instruction book.

 

Fixed my Tektronix TBS1022 scope. The TOPswitch in the power supply had exploded.
Replaced that - still didn’t work. Behaving as though it was trying to feed a short circuit output.
Shorted rectifier on the output - not that.
shorted zener on the primary clamp - not that.
Faulty crowbar Thyristor - not that either, nor the zener that triggers it.
Removed the thyristor, and the supply works, but the voltage is too high. Actually the crowbar was working perfectly. The feedback opto was faulty.

Now here’s where I need some help, it’s so long since I dismantled it that I have lost the case screws. And Tektronix is American so they’re American screws. Machine screws About the size as a M3.5. What are they likely to be?
(The originals were cap screws, and none of my Allen keys fitted)

 

Now here’s where I need some help, it’s so long since I dismantled it that I have lost the case screws. And Tektronix is American so they’re American screws. Machine screws About the size as a M3.5. What are they likely to be?
(The originals were cap screws, and none of my Allen keys fitted)

Hey, Ian. That would be a #6 screw. They are about 3.51mm, so pretty much bang on. The pitch is most likely to be 32tpi because the #6-32 is a very common screw in this use case. I have literally hundreds I’ve salvaged from torn down PC cases and other chassises. I doubt you will have much difficulty in sourcing them but if for some reason you do I would be happy to ship you a variety.

 

Hey, Ian. That would be a #6 screw. They are about 3.51mm, so pretty much bang on. The pitch is most likely to be 32tpi because the #6-32 is a very common screw in this use case. I have literally hundreds I’ve salvaged from torn down PC cases and other chassises. I doubt you will have much difficulty in sourcing them but if for some reason you do I would be happy to ship you a variety.

Thanks. They are available in 10 off quantities on Ebay. Silly price, but Tek wanted £200 for a new power supply!
Measuring it is tricky when you only have the female thread, and the thread size tables on the internet are missing one valuable piece of information - what is commonly used.

32 tpi about 0.8mm pitch, and an M3.5 is 0.6, so it goes in a locks up after half a turn.

 

32 tpi about 0.8mm pitch, and an M3.5 is 0.6, so it goes in a locks up after half a turn.

Maybe you should invest in an M3.5 tap rather than some screws that will cost you as much or more.

 

Lexus 330 grill repair I used these bolt purchased on ebay for $22 us, didn’t need all of them just 2. Had to modify a little to make it work but it’s sitting drying after epoxying them in, I’ll assembly it later.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/266501115507

 

Maybe you should invest in an M3.5 tap rather than some screws that will cost you as much or more.

Packet of 20 A2 stainless steel screws from Ebay for £3. Cheaper than buying 100 bzp. Now I can be confident that the fixing screws will never rust! (unless I move to the seaside, then I should have bought A4 grade)

 

I repaired florescent lights for two different places. Both were emergency priority. Of Course. for the one, they had just replaced all four tubes. Four tubes never fail at once. So in went a new ballast. Even with the diagram on the case, the old one was wired wrong, hence the failure.
The second repair was at a restaurant where I am a partner. A 3 tube fixture with an electronic ballast. 3 new bulbs and they lit up. day later they failed. The ballast was evidently staying at the strike-arc voltage and making the tube ends glow blue. A second new ballast. Afterward I opened that ballast and one big electrolytic cap has the end popped open.
I wind up doing emergency repairs because I can do them when needed. Being sort of retired allows a lot more freedom.

 

Local golf course had its range ball dispensing machines go down last month for a couple of weeks. They had someone work on them, and they worked for a week, then stopped again. I left my number with them, offering to take a look. They called last night and I agreed to check it out this morning. After flushing out the circuits, found a timer with intermittent contacts. As the timer was redundant through previous modifications, jumped it to get them back online. As renumeration, the Owner agreed to a course membership, giving me unlimited range and course access.

 

Local golf course had its range ball dispensing machines go down last month for a couple of weeks. They had someone work on them, and they worked for a week, then stopped again. I left my number with them, offering to take a look. They called last night and I agreed to check it out this morning. After flushing out the circuits, found a timer with intermittent contacts. As the timer was redundant through previous modifications, jumped it to get them back online. As renumeration, the Owner agreed to a course membership, giving me unlimited range and course access.

So when did you sneak in with the bad timer?

 

Local golf course had its range ball dispensing machines go down last month for a couple of weeks. They had someone work on them, and they worked for a week, then stopped again. I left my number with them, offering to take a look. They called last night and I agreed to check it out this morning. After flushing out the circuits, found a timer with intermittent contacts. As the timer was redundant through previous modifications, jumped it to get them back online. As renumeration, the Owner agreed to a course membership, giving me unlimited range and course access.

This shows the difference between an amateur and one who is able to actually understand what a circuit and system does. Understanding what a system does and how it does it is the way to understand what needs to be fixed.

 

Burned HV IHC 600V cathode P.S. connector that was arcing. Some 'person' forced it in cockeyed to the connection pin so it was only on the insulator instead of the female mating connector inside.

 

So when did you sneak in with the bad timer?

Gave me a chance to interrogate them on their procedures, looking for opportunities to help them improve. Saw lots of those, with the challenge being budget.

 

Gave me a chance to interrogate them on their procedures, looking for opportunities to help them improve. Saw lots of those, with the challenge being budget.

If I had the time to hang out around a golf course, I'd probably play golf.

 

If I had the time to hang out around a golf course, I'd probably play golf.

Carried my bag for 18 holes today. Did some stretching when I got home, but seizing up this evening. I’ll take my wheels tomorrow.

 

I replaced a three-tube ballast that had failed in that it was destroying the tubes. They had a hot blue glow at each end, instead of the normal white all the way to the end. So I am guessing that it was stuck in the "strike arc" mode and that damaged the tubes. They would not lite with the replacement ballast, so three replacements were needed. The failed tubes had only been used one day.
I opened the electronic ballast and one of the filter caps had bulged out it's top, a sure sign of failure.
Does anybody have any thoughts about it. It was an actual MOTOROLA electronic ballast.

 

I replaced a three-tube ballast that had failed in that it was destroying the tubes. They had a hot blue glow at each end, instead of the normal white all the way to the end. So I am guessing that it was stuck in the "strike arc" mode and that damaged the tubes. They would not lite with the replacement ballast, so three replacements were needed. The failed tubes had only been used one day.
I opened the electronic ballast and one of the filter caps had bulged out it's top, a sure sign of failure.
Does anybody have any thoughts about it. It was an actual MOTOROLA electronic ballast.

I wish I had good news. At work all the the old stuff is being replaced by LED lighting. Lots of failures with the old MOTOROLA electronic ballast lights.


New LED systems.

 

I wish I had good news. At work all the the old stuff is being replaced by LED lighting. Lots of failures with the old MOTOROLA electronic ballast lights.
View attachment 332189

New LED systems.
View attachment 332190
View attachment 332191

Nice harnesses... are those orange thingies wafo connectors?

 

Local golf course had its range ball dispensing machines go down last month for a couple of weeks. They had someone work on them, and they worked for a week, then stopped again. I left my number with them, offering to take a look. They called last night and I agreed to check it out this morning. After flushing out the circuits, found a timer with intermittent contacts. As the timer was redundant through previous modifications, jumped it to get them back online. As renumeration, the Owner agreed to a course membership, giving me unlimited range and course access.

And from now on, they will have unlimited access to your repair services

 

And from now on, they will have unlimited access to your repair services

Being a Vital Asset to an organization with adequate resources is not bad. Really! Being the one able to provide the fast fix when traditional service organizations are either unwilling or unable is a better advertisement than any agency can provide. A good reputation spreads. Of course, it also requires actually knowing what to do, not just faking it. I always remind new clients that I do not "do" freon or steam. That satisfies most of them. And so far, most cooling system faults have been in the controls section, so no issues.