There is an official tool for cleanly making the breaks, called a spot face cutter.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=....1ac.1.34.heirloom-hp..14.12.1298.sPHSKc2H1Wg

The end of a rose faced countersink or sharp twist drill bit will also do.

Aluminium cans can be cut by hand with sturdy kitchen shears or tinsnips, or even a stanley knife - it's dead easy.
Once again Isb123 is doing an excelllent job here with the board design, so I'll leave that to him.

 

how important is heat compound, it's kinda expensive... R92 for 10ml or R126 for 20ml but the 20ml is out of stock. How long will 10ml last?

Silicone-Free Heat Transfer Compound, 10ml Syringe (ELL36G)
R92.68
Excellent non-creep characteristics
Wide operating temperature (-200 to +130°C)
High thermal conductivity (0.9 W/mK)

This silicone-free heat transfer compound has about 3½ times the thermal transmission of ordinary silicone grease. Supplied with a syringe-type applicator for accurate and wasteless placement of the compound. Available in 2ml, 10ml, and 20ml syringes.

OR

Heat Transfer Compound, 25g (APN81G)
R118.15
For use on bases of heatsinks, transistors, diodes, etc. Excellent thermal conductivity properties.

Supplied in a 25g tube.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can afford the 25g one, dunno how much heat compound weigh, so I don't know wich one to pick, if I have to have one...

 

Go in computer hardware store and buy it there,It should cost like 3$.And you dont need a heatsink for lm2576.

 

I checked everything, won't work. Should the diode stripe be on the right or left hand side? at the moment its at the left hand side. I used a bridge detector, which I only now realized could damage the IC, it's a 9V Battery with one pole connected to a probe and the other to a resistor-then-LED, whose other pole is connected to a probe. But what I didn't keep in mind is that that would push 9v through the circuit being tested, maybe I damaged the IC like that, please advise :-/. I used that ultra bright LED of the bridge detector to illuminate my board and go through it track by track, no bridges! I bought 3 of these ICs, so if I drop one it's not the end of the world, but you can't braid on a stripboard... the length of the track dissipate all heat, does soldering pumps work?

 

Does your multimeter have continuity test?

 

Does your multimeter have continuity test?

No, thats why I built the 9v probe with battery resistor LED, and small pill (medicine) holder.

My Multimeter is 20 years old

 

I need to check out an order at yebo (fort777.co.za) now, computer hardware stores doesn't stock heat compounds, which one of the top two whould you choose, ISB123, if it were the only 2 available?

It might still be a bad connection problem, cause I only pigtail the wires, hopefully tomorrow I can get some plugs, and make a proper connectiont with my modified 3.5mm male 12V PSU, and of course female for the regulator board

 

I would chose none.They are robbing anyone who is buying at that price.What power supply did you use to provide power to lm2576?

 

My no name 12VDC for CCTV Cameras, weighs in on the multimeter (ie no load) at 14.somethingV

 

Try 9V battery on output.

 

not understood. where should I place a 9v battery, on the output? what do I measure then?

 

Plug 9V battery on the input and measure output.Made a mistake there .
Run a knife between the traces to break possible bridges.

 

ok wel that'll have to be tomorrow, I need to get to bed, up early

 

gets very hot. I've previous trip to Mantech, bought me a PSU with the slide to choose voltages, and using it's 7.5V, nothing happes, but like the 9V, the 12V setting heats up the chip like mad (burn finger with just longer than momentary touch, after about 60-90seconds), could my polarities be wrong? I don't wanna go and change polarities on the BIG wart, and destroy the entire thing. Last night the CCTV 12V was never connected long enough for it to heat up. Oh and 9V gave 0.2V on the multimeter.

There's no bridges, checked every track under a very good lamp, cause my knife won't cut solder.

What would you advise ISB123? change polarities?

PS. I have the Vin now connected with http://www.fort777.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=269_270_297_304_307&products_id=1568 <---- 3.5mm Mono Panel Socket Screened
Question: The long arm is GND and the 2 little holes is live?

PPS I've bought myself a 30W heated desoldering pump

 

You have a short some where the regulator is going into short circuit protection which makes it overheat.

 

what side should the diode face? ring to the left or to the right?

 

band should(Face) be connected to power line(Vout).Does it overheat when you use a 9V battery and when you power something with the regulator like a led and then measure the voltage.

 

yes it does overheat with a 9v battery



line to the left?, it has to connect through the inductor?

 

I would advise you to desolder everything and start again with stripboard design similar to mine which is going to have less jumper connections and try to keep design similar to the schematic which means input components on left side output components on right.

 

I would advise you to desolder everything and start again with stripboard design similar to mine which is going to have less jumper connections and try to keep design similar to the schematic which means input components on left side output components on right.

would you be so kind as to repost your design, not sure which was the final one

not so sure I understand it