So basically it's a 3.5:1 ratio, so if the DC motor is spinning @1000 RPM, the Alternator in theory should be 3500 rpm.

S terminal: If the White wire can reach from the regulator to back into the alternator, you can just use a Female 1/4" (0.250") quick connect and be done with it for now.

A Terminal: You can tie that into the 5/16" output terminal on the alternator itself if you want, since that's more/less a voltage sense that should go to as close to the batteries positive post as possible. (good for voltage drop through terminals, ect), Add fuse if you like, but that short of a distance isn't truly needed!

I terminal: A 1157 bulb may not work, unless you have it wired to the lower output (5w) filament, since most idiot lights on a dash are 5W or less.

The 5/16" output i think you know, and grounding the case to the to negative side of the battery.

If you want to see if the alternator is producing power may be able to start up the system without the alternator to battery positive wire connected, and measure that wire itself?? I know disconnecting the battery when a car is running can have bad side affects (voltage spikes, ect) but disconnecting the alternator from the battery?

 

Thanx
At this point I'm pressed for time... The only time I would get to work on this would be Friday. I will try what you have suggested and come back and relay what we've done ( achieved ) and go from there.

R

 

27may16 06:50:03

We/I reversed the wires ( the A and I - yellow and Green ) with no results ( the alternator isn't kicking in )...

so... A. as it stands the I ( green ) is connected to the switch and connected to the positive side of the rails
B. the yellow wire is just connected to the positive side of the rails

The next step is to have the green and yellow wire connected to the battery so that... 1. the alternator has electricity in it before the DC motor is turned on. 2. that the voltage regulator ( assumption ) senses the battery is being depleted...

R

 

16 June 16

secured another battery ( auto ) and connected the yellow ( yellow and the main red wire ) directly to the battery and it blew a 60 amp fuse...
my assumption is that the alternator is inrushing the whole circuit ( or a mis wiring on my part ) and blew the 60 amp fuse...

R

 

update...
put a bussmann 175 amp fuse in place of the 60 amp fuse... the fuse didn't blow but the connections ( the big red wire ) to the battery from the alternator started to smoke and get hot......... which we quickly took off.

This is what we found out... after leaving the black ( 5/16 bolt black wire hooked to the neg. side of the battery ) on and connected the red wire to a voltmeter ... it produced 3/4 of a volt... with the yellow wire ( sensing wire ) essentially disconnected... my friend wanted to connect the voltmeter in series with it ( the big red wire ) to find out what the current was ...He wanted to use the 10 amp slot of the voltmeter but I didn't want to without a shunt in place ( 100 amp shunt ).

The next test would be to put the sensing wire back on the positive side of the battery and see how much volts and amperage comes thru then...

R