Experimental circuit drawing 1





that's not so bad after all

I guess eagle is better than paint ( paint has squiqqly in it )

 

O btw ... I've been down the zero point , free energy ... yellow brick road before...
I'm from Missouri - ya have to show me!

R

 

1. I wanted to know if a alternator can power it self by generating 12 volts...
a. The 12 volt DC motor is already running ( its running off the battery )
b. If the front of the 12 Volt DC motor is powering the Alt. ... what's the back end doing...
c. the back end of the 12 Volt DC motor is enclosed ( but its still spinning )
d. larger DC and AC motors have open or closed ends ( they generate heat - I know - how much ... I don't know...)
2. Can the alternator be made into a motor...
a. If the alternator can be made into a motor
1. Can the torque be adjustable
3. If the alternator can be made into a motor
a. Can two alternators be made into a sychnous unit

shall I go on...

R

Finally.
1.a good
b. on most DC brushed motors, that is where the brushes and commutator are
c. so? many are made that way
d. depends on the load and length of run time.

2. yes
a. yes, maybe

3.a. anything is posible

But if you think a alternator that puts out"x" amps can be used to run an alternator and the alternator being used to create the electricity to run the motor, think again. Won't happen, can't happen. No mater what they tell/show on Youtube. This would be over unity and the discussion of it is against forum rules, because its a scam. If you think otherwise, I have a bridge in NYC to sell you.

 

As I stated before... my intent has always been Alternators and motors DC and AC... I've seen all the videos and all the free energy and zero point energy yellow brick roads ... been thru the forums...spent 2 years building a fool's errand... my wife doesn't want to hear about overunity or free energy...and she doesn't want my stuff ( alternators and motors ) in the house or the garage...so when I bought the Leeson 12 volt 3/4 hp 58 amp motor...it had to stay in the music studio... the alternator stayed in the garage...

If you want me to read something, or do something on my own just say so...I am here to learn about circuits, electronics and electricity...
I don't want to discuss yellow brick roads or transformer less power systems...

I want to get this alternator up and running ( producing energy ) next week , then bring the whole project up into the math section ( for the other answers )...

side bar... I also have to design a sprinkler system and secure a ditch witch to do it...

R

 

What you want to build is an Over-Unity machine. The answer is "No - it won't work."

At this point I'm a little disappointed. This has been a huge waste of our time. Over-Unity machines are not allowed as topics of discussion here and you've successfully masked what you've been trying to do. You won't hear from me again.

And to answer your question about can an alternator be turned into a motor - not the way its wired.

Have a good day.

˚J˚
0

 

What you want to build is an Over-Unity machine. The answer is "No - it won't work."

Sorry you feel that way. Sorry to disappoint you. Good luck in your endeavors.
I must keep working on the alternator to find the answer I am looking for.

And to answer your question about can an alternator be turned into a motor - not the way its wired.

I paid 35.00 to find the instructions on how to turn an alternator into a motor. I didn't believe it at first but after studying the material I think its possible.

As I stated before good luck.

R

 

And to answer your question about can an alternator be turned into a motor - not the way its wired.

You'd be wrong on that. They have been doing it for a while now. They are made into BLDC motors. And it doesn't cost any thing to learn how, just some time to read. https://www.google.com/search?q=car+alternator+to+motor&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

@RandyFL, your thinking about this too much, just try it. You'll make some mistakes but will learn.

 

@RandyFL, your thinking about this too much, just try it. You'll make some mistakes but will learn.

I will try to hot wire ( to wire without permanent connections ) the alternator this week to see if it works basically... I will come back ( a couple of weeks ) and put the results ( good or bad ) for the next person ( that looks into this )...

You'd be wrong on that. They have been doing it for a while now. They are made into BLDC motors. And it doesn't cost any thing to learn how, just some time to read.

I thought the turning a alternator into a BLDC motor was quite interesting ( and also new possibilities ) as you could control the amount of torque you needed up front and back off when the amount of torque wasn't needed ... my problem with turning the alternator ( as the material I purchased didn't cover ) into a BLDC was the b emf using a 741 op amp ( I didn't know how to wire the 741 into the circuit )...

R

 

I said: "Not the way it's wired". After reviewing many video's it apparent that - easy as it may be - there IS rewiring required. Removal of the diodes and either buying some sort of three phase controller or building something to drive the three phases. And an understanding is needed of how and why the voltages on the armature needs to change as you go.

Spent some time looking to find some instructions on how this is done. At best I've seen how others have done it - but so far no clear instructions that I could sit down and build from.

One post mentioned the use of a 6 volt bike generator. I had one of those. AND I hooked it up to a 6 volt AC source and gave the generator a spin. Like a motor it continued to run in the direction spun. Yes, they can be converted, but as easy as it may be - it may be beyond some builders. However, I still stand behind: "Not the way it's wired".

 

We wired the alternator into position today...We wired the yellow and green wire with 20 amp inline fuse ( green wire ) and a 30 amp inline fuse ( yellow wire ) and put a insulated jumper connection ( white wire ) back into the stator of the alternator. On Wednesday we will try to see if anything comes out of the alternator back into the battery... I bought a 1157 bulb and holder for a ford/gm situation ( which I/we didn't install ) because I don't know the ohm/resistor configuration as of yet...

 

because I don't know the ohm/resistor configuration as of yet

If you are using a light bulb, you don't need the resistor. That should only be needed if a LED is used, like in newer dash boards.

Still don't understand what your trying to do with this. If you just need 12V to run something, a 12V power supply is a way less complicated way to go.

 

I know you're not going to believe me... but I/we have finished building... its down to connecting of wires and testing. Its actually the 2nd thing I've built... the 1st circuit was using a 555 chip. I have 3 sets of arduinos and 2 sets of raspberry pi that I haven't taken out of the boxes yet...I was going to build a variable power supply but haven't as of late... I actually bought all the parts for the set up in the pictures and my 84 year old friend built it...We were both amazed that the circuit worked... and I am kinda leery of running an alternator like this. That's why I bought a lawn mower battery instead of an auto battery...I used a fuse, circuit breaker and 300 amp blade switch - just in case. Tomorrow we will hook up the last two wires and run a test...

R

 

We finally hooked up( wired ) the alternator to the motor...we spent most of the day tracing a bad connection ( napa auto parts are the worst parts )... it was the 2nd time we had problems with napa parts... when we finally had it running

1. the lawnmower battery was too small ( as was mentioned earlier ) spent the rest of the day chasing for a auto battery that was being used on a boat ... we charged that up and the motor was running fine but the alternator was only producing 1 volt ... so there's something wrong with this set up...

2. the circuit is using up energy... the motor is ( new ) but also inefficient ... the alternator is inefficient... and the battery is also inefficient... so naturally the complete setup will start to slow down and then eventually stop... that's a given. I understand all that has been presented here. But the alternator wasn't producing even 12 volts from the get go... so I/we have to figure out why... and that's where we are..........

R

 

If the field coil of the alternator isn't initially getting current there may be insufficient residual magnetism in the rotor to generate any significant voltage for booting it up.

 

but we got 1 volt...
but obviously its wired wrong...
white is jumpered ( insulated ) back to the alternator
green is connected to a 20 amp fuse and ran back to the 12 volts
yellow is connected to a switch and a 30 amp fuse and ran back to the 12 volts


R

ps so what u're saying is another power source besides the battery ( 2 batteries ? )...
or connecting to the alternator before the dc motor starts
?

ps2 its only by brute force I/we accomplish anything ( lol )

 

Post how YOU wired it, not how some other website did it.

 

I wired it exactly like the Haynes book... post # 41 and post # 49...
green wire goes to a fuse and to the positive
white goes back to the alt.
yellow goes to a on/off switch to a 30amp fuse
red goes to the positive side of the battery
black wire goes to the case and neg side of the battery

when the motor runs...the yellow and green are jumpered to the positive and I turn on the switch ( yellow wire )
when we started the motor we put a voltmeter on the battery and it wasn't being charged it was draining...
we took the black and red wires off the alternator and connected it to the voltmeter and got 1 volt...

after the switch is turned on it stays on

 

I'm thinking that we wired it backwards...
asi probably stands for alt. , stator and ignition...

yellow is the larger of the wires and is probably along the starter side of circuit going to the Alt./ starter fuse ( assumption )
white is the stator wire and is jumpered back to the alternator ( phases )
and I is ignition ( idiot light ) ( assumption ) switch

at this point is try it out Friday

ps I think the Haynes book is way off ( but I could wrong )

 

Either it is wired wrong, or it's not spinning fast enough to even start producing any kind of power.

Also as soon as you disconnect the negative side of the alternator you aren't going to get ANYTHING out of it, Does a battery work if ou only have the positive connected? Light bulb lite when you only have positive going to it?

And like i said, if you do not have the alternator spinning least around 1500-2000 rpm it won't produce anything.

 

Either it's not spinning fast enough to even start producing any kind of power...

I have to re check the rpm ratio's of post # 15 where Tony calculated the rpm ratio ( s )
it's a 7 ish inch pulley ( on the DC motor ) to 2 ish inch pulley on the alternator ( I have to re - check )

anyway...
I/we 're starting the dc motor 1st then applying juice to the yel and green wires ( I put the on/off switch on the yel wire - duh! ... now I have to go back and put it on the green wire )...

also...
we put an alligator clip on the stator wire ( white wire ) and insulated it with electrical tape... ( but I might have to buy a plug to be sure is correct ( that there's a emf coming from it or whatever happens in white/blk wire ))

Lastly...
when I/we switch out the wires ( on/off switch )... if that doesn't produce anything ... I might have to think about a second battery - or use the lawnmower battery just for that...)

thanx in advance
R
ps we didn't do anything Friday ( I took my wife out on a boat )

ps 2

Also as soon as you disconnect the negative side of the alternator you aren't going to get ANYTHING out of it

we've connected a wire to the 5/16 bolt to the neg side of a battery