This is a condenser fan motor from a day and night ac unit it has 3 wires black brown and blue can anyone help me on how do I hook this up I'm using it as a fan for my shed so I do have 220volt plugs as well as 110volts

 

Measure the winding's, identify the two, start and run, the start winding will be the highest resistance, and the cap would be connected to it.
Max.

 

Measure the winding's, identify the two, start and run, the start winding will be the highest resistance, and the cap would be connected to it.
Max.

how do I messure the windings where is the ground wire r the ground go what kind of cap do I need

 

Measure resistance:
Black to Brown = ?
Black to Blue = ?
Brown to Blue = ?

Is there any kind of data plate on the motor, indicating voltage, current, RPM, etc?

 

how do I messure the windings where is the ground wire r the ground go what kind of cap do I need

To me Ground wire in this application means Earth or frame.!
Do you mean Neutral?
Max.

 

Searching the part number stamped on the bearing cover (5KGP39KG) pulls up a description of a PERMANENT SPLIT CAPACITOR MOTOR.
This type of motor is common for fan applications. It uses a RUN CAPACITOR permanently connected in series with the run winding. If you measure the very low resistance between the three wires as recommended by Ylli above you can determine which connect to the main winding and which connect to the phase shifted winding (for want of actually knowing the correct name of the auxiliary winding). The main winding will have a significantly lower resistance than the auxiliary winding but both will be quite low and possibly difficult to discern with a common VOM or digital multimeter. You might try applying a low DC current (say, one amp-not critical) to two leads and measuring the low voltage from each to the third wire. If the voltage on the third wire is identical to that on one other wire the third wire is connected to that wire internally and you are running current through one winding. If the voltage on the third wire is closer to that on one of the other wires, but not identical to it, you are running current through both windings and the wire pair that has the lowest voltage is the main winding to which your line power will be applied directly. The capacitor will therefore be connected to the two wires to which your experimental DC power had been applied. If this is not completely clear to you, ask questions here.

One guess would be that the windings are European color-coded (which seems odd for an American made motor) which means blue is neutral, brown is line, and black would be the auxiliary winding. Assuming that you know the voltage rating of the motor, it is probably safe to BRIEFLY apply line power to the motor experimentally. (Obviously, be sure the motor/fan is securely mounted before applying power.) Do NOT leave line power applied experimentally if the motor does not start and run immediately. I would try a temporary hookup with blue connected to neutral, brown connected to line, and a 10 MFD 370Volt capacitor connected from line (brown) to the black conductor. If the motor does not start immediately try connecting the capacitor from blue to black. Apply line power for only a few seconds if motor does not start and run immediately.

This type of motor has the "RUN" capacitor permanently connected and is non-reversible. 10MFD is a fairly typical run capacitor value for a fractional horsepower fan motor. You can buy one at an industrial supplier such as Grainger.

Monitor motor and capacitor temperature for the first hour or so of operation. They may feel quite warm to the hand but not too hot to touch for a few seconds. The motor is probably an "air-over" type intended to be cooled by the airflow of the fan mounted directly on the motor shaft.

Be aware that I am NOT an electrical engineer or a motor expert. I am merely a hobbyist who recently had to identify windings on a three-lead motor. Be very careful and keep one hand in your pocket while experimenting with line power.

 

Actually the part number seems to be 5KCP39KG, not KGP as I initially read it. This seems to be a pretty generic number that describes a number of motors, powers, speeds and voltages. Searching for the complete number returns nothing.

So, unless you have some other info, like what equipment the motor came out of, we don't know whether it is a 115 volt or 230 volt motor. For obvious reasons I suggest trying it out on 115 volts first. If it starts reasonably strongly and draws about 3 to 5 amps, I would assume it is a 115 volt motor. If it starts weakly on 115 volts it may be a 230 volt motor. It may be a six pole motor that would run at about 1075 RPM so don't mistake apparent slow running to indicate that it needs 230 volts. With my limited knowledge base I am hesitant to recommend running on 230 volts.

According to a number of hits, the 39 in the part number indicates a 48-frame motor. 48 frame indicates a physical size which implies a motor of about 1/3 or 1/2 HP. If we assume 1/2 HP at about 85% efficiency on 115 volts we would expect ((746/2)/115)/.85 = 3.8 amps which is where my suggested current draw of 3 to 5 amps came from.

 

The main winding will have a significantly lower resistance than the auxiliary winding but both will be quite low and possibly difficult to discern with a common VOM or digital multimeter. You might try applying a low DC current (say, one amp-not critical) to two leads and measuring the low voltage from each to the third wire.

Many PSC motors have identical winding's for reversal, often not needed for a fan, but where the blade rotation is not known by the OEM, then this could be the case.
For a capacitor, It should be AC motor run rated and preferably not of Chinese origin, of which these are known to have a high failure rate in motor applications.
Max.

 

To me Ground wire in this application means Earth or frame.!
Do you mean Neutral?
Max.

Yes cause I know 110volt has 1 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground
220volt is 2 hots and a neutral and a ground
I know on stoves and dryers the neutral and ground is hooked together

So my ? Is where do I put the neutral and ground at

 

Measure resistance:
Black to Brown = ?
Black to Blue = ?
Brown to Blue = ?

Is there any kind of data plate on the motor, indicating voltage, current, RPM, etc?

No there is no data plate what u see in the picture is all I see on it

 

Actually the part number seems to be 5KCP39KG, not KGP as I initially read it. This seems to be a pretty generic number that describes a number of motors, powers, speeds and voltages. Searching for the complete number returns nothing.

So, unless you have some other info, like what equipment the motor came out of, we don't know whether it is a 115 volt or 230 volt motor. For obvious reasons I suggest trying it out on 115 volts first. If it starts reasonably strongly and draws about 3 to 5 amps, I would assume it is a 115 volt motor. If it starts weakly on 115 volts it may be a 230 volt motor. It may be a six pole motor that would run at about 1075 RPM so don't mistake apparent slow running to indicate that it needs 230 volts. With my limited knowledge base I am hesitant to recommend running on 230 volts.

According to a number of hits, the 39 in the part number indicates a 48-frame motor. 48 frame indicates a physical size which implies a motor of about 1/3 or 1/2 HP. If we assume 1/2 HP at about 85% efficiency on 115 volts we would expect ((746/2)/115)/.85 = 3.8 amps which is where my suggested current draw of 3 to 5 amps came from.

The motor came from a day & night central unit that ran a apartment complex it's the condenser fan motor

 

I know on stoves and dryers the neutral and ground is hooked together

That is a NO-NO now, the neutral and GND should Only be connected at the panel.

Is where do I put the neutral and ground at

The neutral would go to the centre point of the two windings (common) and the earth (GND) conductor whould be connected to the frame of the motor.
Have you measured the winding resistance?
Max.

 

Here some new pics

 

Your meter should be on the lowest resistance range for any kind of accuracy.
But it looks like the windings are so close they are essentially identical, which if so would mean that blue is the common and the other two ends are the two windings that would be alternated for direction.
Take readings on the low range.
Max.