(Moderator's note: Moved to new thread from https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/project-proposal.132226/#post-1107255 -dc)

@R!f@@ This is for you -dc

Thank you Eric.

Any one else ?

I am looking for members who might have first hand experience to guide me for a kick ass one

I did not make this from a written request but rather from employee who want something that can do this and that and all that. So it evolved to what I have made. This was better than what they did and exceeds their expectation.

R!f@@...I just joined the forum because I saw a post of yours from some time ago on testing/repairing a treadmill controller (08-0016). Mine has just broke down, and I am going through the tests in the 2011 post. Are you still available to guide? Thanks Peter

 

This is the earlier piece.
Referring to Fritzycat's tests, I did the same tests with almost the same results...my notes are at home, I will add the differences tonite.

For sure, the green S F/B light never comes on, altho it does flash if the tread is moved manually. Also, Fuse 1 is blown.
More later.
Thanks so much.
Peter


https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...treadmill-motor-controller.55884/#post-739336

 

Bump!
(Book marking)

 

Bump!
(Book marking)

Not that familiar with photobucket...I hope these work






I have copied the test from the earlier post with my results in large caps after the word ME...


Motor:
· I connected the treadmill drive motor to an 18V battery from a cordless drill, and the motor operates normally. ME...YES
Controller Tests:
·Test: Fuses
· Result:
All 3 fuses tested good for continuity


ME...NO… FUSE NO. 1 IS BLOWN. PUT IN A NEW FUSE, PRESSED START, THE MOTOR RUNS AND THE TREAD MOVES @ 6 INCHES BEFORE THE FUSE BLOWS AGAIN. (TRIED TWICE)

·Test: Plug Treadmill into AC outlet
· Result: ME...AUDIBLE BEEP INC- GOES ON FOR ½ SEC.
Green “S F/B” Light turns ON ME...NO, DOES NOT GO ON
Yellow “LVS” Light turns ON ME...YES
If the treadmill drive motor is spun manually, the “S F/B” light Flashes ME...YES

·Test: Press “Power” button Treadmill Control Panel
· Result: ME...AUDIBLE BEEP INC- ON FOR ½ SEC
o Red “RAIL” light turns ON ME...NO… NEVER COMES ON


o Yellow “RLY1” light turns ON ME... YES
o A second later the “RLY2” light turns ON and two FANS turn ON ME...HAPPENS 8 SECONDS LATER
o A few additional seconds later, Yellow “RLY1” light turns OFF ME...YES
·Test: Press “Start” on Treadmill Control Panel
· Result
o Green “ESR” Light blinks ME...YES
o Treadmill Drive Motor does NOT spin no power to motor leads. ME...YES DID NOT TEST POWER TO LEADS
o After about 10 seconds, Green “RLY2” turns OFF – control panel indicates an “E11” error code. ME...YES ALSO GOT AN E22 ONCE

Hope it makes sense
I appreciate any help/advice...
Thanks
Peter

 

ME....YES part is rather confusing.

tell me as of now.
Does fuse blow ?
If not, does motor turn ?

You need to post complete pictures.
Glare on picture is rather annoying.

 

ME....YES part is rather confusing.

tell me as of now.
Does fuse blow ?
If not, does motor turn ?

You need to post complete pictures.
Glare on picture is rather annoying.

sorry about the pictures...will take the board out and retake and resend. After putting in a new fuse #1, and hitting start, the motor runs briefly(one second or so), the tread moves about 6 inches, and the fuse blows.

 

sorry about the pictures...will take the board out and retake and resend. After putting in a new fuse #1, and hitting start, the motor runs briefly(one second or so), the tread moves about 6 inches, and the fuse blows.

I used the tests that another user (fritzycat) wrote on June 16, 2011, but put my results (which are slightly different) in CAPS after "ME".

Fuse 1 was blown after the treadmill stopped. I did the tests as shown without a new fuse. When I put a new fuse #1 in, and hit start, the motor ran @ a second and the tread moved @ 6 inches before stopping and blowing the fuse. I did this twice.

Here is a link to a better picture

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/Kommish1186/IMG_0040_zps3a8zmaok.jpg

 

I would start with testing the PWM components and power semi's.
I presume the motor is free to turn mechanically, no binding etc?
Max.

 

First I would check the motor.
I would take it apart, check the brushes, and get rid of the carbon deposits inside the motor. Thorough cleaning for the motor.
If the Problem exists, then I will check the power components of the PCB.

 

The motor is not seized, runs with an 18 volt drill battery...and turns the tread. Are you suggesting the motor might be weak? What is the significance of the green S F/B light not going on, and the red RAIL light not going on?

 

Is F/B for Feedback Light?
If so does it have a opto sensor wheel on the motor?
Max.

 

I thought you asked for my help.
I know how a seized motor operates, and motor is not weak.
My concern is the fuse blowing.
An 18V can drive the motor. Not the same as the PWM drive.

I said I would clean the motor if there is too much carbon deposit in the commutator and around the brush area.
If you think motor is fine then check the PWM components.
A failed opto feedback will never blow the fuse. I have never came across that issue.

A faulty PWM drive will blow the motor.
A bad motor current sensing circuit could blow the fuse.
Too much carbon deposit will blow the fuse.
A improperly rated fuse will blow the fuse.

If you cannot follow instructions then you should do it on your own.

 

IF it Does have a LED that is feedback oriented, I was surmising that may be the motor could accelerate until trying to see the FB, if this were the case, a rapidly accelerating flywheel motor could cause an over load.
Just a thought to consider.
My treadmill is a Keys and it does have a FB LED.
Max.

 

Did OP said it accelerates or just moves ?
Some has FB led, some don't.

 

Is F/B for Feedback Light?
If so does it have a opto sensor wheel on the motor?
Max.

There is some kind of sensor on the motor that reads the speed by the fins on the motor shaft. That green F/B light flashes when the motor is spun.

 

I thought you asked for my help.
I know how a seized motor operates, and motor is not weak.
My concern is the fuse blowing.
An 18V can drive the motor. Not the same as the PWM drive.

I said I would clean the motor if there is too much carbon deposit in the commutator and around the brush area.
If you think motor is fine then check the PWM components.
A failed opto feedback will never blow the fuse. I have never came across that issue.

A faulty PWM drive will blow the motor.
A bad motor current sensing circuit could blow the fuse.
Too much carbon deposit will blow the fuse.
A improperly rated fuse will blow the fuse.

If you cannot follow instructions then you should do it on your own.

Its not that I can't follow instructions...its that I am way out of my element here. I do appreciate your help/advice. I will not be able to replace any components on the board myself (other than putting in a new fuse) and if the board is the problem, I will have to have it repaired or replaced. But I do not want to send the board out if the problem is the motor. I am reluctant to take the motor out and take it apart. If there is a way for me to determine which is the problem, I guess that is the best I can do. Again, thanks

 

Usually the low voltage test is a fairly good indication if there is anything wrong with the motor itself, but if you have, or know someone that has Variac it can be tested up to full rpm using a bridge rectifier.
Max.

 

If you can't replace or test components there is nothing much you can do yourself.
You need a tech to do these things.

Send out the PCB to had it checked.