That is a MC100LS version, there were several, you have the one with the off-board L.V. transformer, later models had it on board.
The LED in one corner is a diagnostic LED, when running normally, it should flash continuously very slowly.
Max.

The LED in the corner, it flashes upon start up then just stays on solid

 

I should stay on solid until it gets the move command when it should then flash very slowly as the motor starts.
See what it does when the lamp is connected.
Max.

 

I should stay on solid until it gets the move command when it should then flash very slowly as the motor starts.
See what it does when the lamp is connected.
Max.

Awesome will give that a go and then I'll be back to tell the tale.

 

I should stay on solid until it gets the move command when it should then flash very slowly as the motor starts.
See what it does when the lamp is connected.
Max.

Hey Max so I waited until my new motor arrived to rule it out. It came this afternoon and I tried it and ouch still blows the fuse. So do you think it is the mosfet?

 

The normal action is for the motor to slowly accelerate, you cannot have the belt take off to what ever the speed is set to, if this is not working due to say a shorted Mosfet, it will apply full power to the motor immediately and blow the fuse.
I assume the motor spun freely?
A filament lamp should show a gradual increase in brilliance as the ramp start builds up.
Are you sure it is not a brush rubbing sound? you would have to lift the brushes to prove that.
What is the part number on the motor board.?
Max.

I was wondering if I hook up a rectifier to a dc pwm power regulator would that be viable?

 

I assume you want to use that to plug into the HD2 socket to run the MC2100 board on its own?
This would test the board itself, and also show if the Mosfet was bad etc.
I previously made up some small Picmicro based PCT's for doing this for some who wanted to run the board & motor for machine tools etc, i.e. stand-alone.
A pot controls the speed and and a stop/start PB.
Any other motor controller you built, has to have a ramp up for the motor, especially with the flywheel still attached.
Max.

 

I assume you want to use that to plug into the HD2 socket to run the MC2100 board on its own?
This would test the board itself, and also show if the Mosfet was bad etc.
I previously made up some small Picmicro based PCT's for doing this for some who wanted to run the board & motor for machine tools etc, i.e. stand-alone.
A pot controls the speed and and a stop/start PB.
Any other motor controller you built, has to have a ramp up for the motor, especially with the flywheel still attached.
Max.

I was thinking to bypass the board itself and run the motor direct using a regulator of some sort. I was thinking a high wattage scr controller then a rectifier then finally wire that to the motor. My fear is the controller won't be fine enough for gradual speed for treadmill use.

 

I was thinking to bypass the board itself and run the motor direct using a regulator of some sort. I was thinking a high wattage scr controller then a rectifier then finally wire that to the motor. My fear is the controller won't be fine enough for gradual speed for treadmill use.

The simple SCR controller won't do it, these T.M's have a speed sensor, usually on the belt, this comes into the motor board and goes up to the processor in the console, where it regulates the signal before sending back down to the motor controller.
If you have a meter, you can remove the heat sink screw on the devices and slide the circuit board out of the aluminum chassis to test the diode and Mosfet.
Max.

 

The simple SCR controller won't do it, these T.M's have a speed sensor, usually on the belt, this comes into the motor board and goes up to the processor in the console, where it regulates the signal before sending back down to the motor controller.
If you have a meter, you can remove the heat sink screw on the devices and slide the circuit board out of the aluminum chassis to test the diode and Mosfet.
Max.

great idea i do have a meter what readings should i get? also i noticed an ever so slight squeal cming from the board when powered. could this be a capacitor?

 

In circuit, check for indication of short circuit between pins of Mosfet .and of the diode.
If doubtful, you may have to remove from the board to confirm.
When replacing chassis, make sure the heatsink insulation is in place.
Max.

 

In circuit, check for indication of short circuit between pins of Mosfet .and of the diode.
If doubtful, you may have to remove from the board to confirm.
When replacing chassis, make sure the heatsink insulation is in place.
Max.

I have attached a picture the blue arrows I got no continuity beep from the multi meter. I guess they need replacing right?

 

It is the topmost two on the left side, the far left one is the diode.
Max.

 

It is the topmost two on the left side, the far left one is the diode.
Max.

Out of those top two on the left the right one of them with the blue arrow seems to be not working. I think that is the mosfet?

 

I was just about to edit the post, of the left pair the left most one is usually the Mosfet.usually IRFP250.
Max.

 

I was just about to edit the post, of the left pair the left most one is usually the Mosfet.usually IRFP250.
Max.

From looking at the code on them.
Left is: G4PC40K
Right is: hfa15pb60

Where heatsink attaches. So the left and right are now swapped

 

The hfa15b60 is a Diode, it has two legs shorted.


G4pc40k is a MOSFET.

https://www.infinity-electronic.hk/...ctifier(Infineon-Technologies)_IRG4PC40K.aspx

 

The hfa15b60 is a Diode, it has two legs shorted.


G4pc40k is a MOSFET.

https://www.infinity-electronic.hk/...ctifier(Infineon-Technologies)_IRG4PC40K.aspx

Ah great thanks still learning, was wondering as the lamp test was working. Yet motor was still blowing fuse. It's odd power to everything is fine bar when the motor trust to kick in and I know it's not the motor because I tested a new one today.

 

Did you ever do the filament lamp test? This can be done out of the aluminum chassis.
If the Mosfet is shorted it will not blow the fuse like a motor with a flywheel will.
It should ramp up in brilliance.
Max.

 

You can test the MOSFET for shorts, unpower the treadmill, unplug motor, and put your DVM on Diode test , check MOSFET across middle pin and right pin, ideally open circuit result.

 

Did you ever do the filament lamp test? This can be done out of the aluminum chassis.
Max.

I didn't but I actually bought a flood light the other day. I'll go give it a shot when kids are in bed don't want them in the sitting room when I mess with electrics