Timed LED lights (like drag racing "Christmas Tree" starting lights)

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,784
A multimeter should be enough. Might measure motor V at the different ranges. If it is PWM, there will be different readings. We can integrate the motor V to give a neg. 3 sec. pulse. Cap. couple signal to 555 to give a start. I think my bread board sit up worked.
 

Thread Starter

CaptStephan

Joined Feb 14, 2018
34
But how do I test my board before I try to hook it up to the ball throwing machine? Right now the first two lights come on when I plug it in to power and that is it.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,784
What circuit do you have on bread board ?
If it is Post # 30, then add a 10k R from U2-15 to gnd. To start put momentary +9 V on U2-15.
 

-live wire-

Joined Dec 22, 2017
959
Like I said the only people who color matters is humans dogs are totally color blind.
Dogs actually can see color.
http://dogtime.com/dog-health/general/5183-dogs-colorblind-staff-faq

For more advanced stuff, at a certain point, a microcontroller like an ATtiny or ATmega328p becomes a worthwhile investment. The more complex it gets, timing wise, the more hardware you need. This can be annoying, time consuming, and resource consuming. With a microcontroller, you have a lot more freedom and don't have to buy rc components for every additional stage of LEDs. And what if you want to have one fade in and fade out, then the next one do the same thing but at a different speed and to start slightly before the previous one fades out? You can see my point.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,784
Re post # 30: At power up & first 2 LEDs on, that is first step, & that is bad news because U1 is supposed to be active. Check U2-1, should be lo & U3-15 should be rising & falling. as it is an open collector & should not effect U1. U1 not oscillating, check all pins,1-gnd., 2 & 6 might be lo, 3 lo or high, 4 +V, 5 not connected, 7 open or lo, 8 +V.
 
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