Hello all,
My name is Wills and I own a fig (the fruiting plant) nursery in Florida as well as an online fig discussion forum, not sure if mentioning the sites is allowed? so wont.
In one of my greenhouses have about 10,000 gallons of water for passive heat retention and I also grow tilapia in the tanks. I have two RDF filters which are 55 gallon barrels where the sides are mostly removed and that are covered in very fine stainless steel mesh, it feels like cloth. Each barrel sitting horizontally inside a 300 gallon tank. The water flows into one end of the barrels where it falls out of holes inside the barrel and only way out of that barrel is through the SS fabric hence the filtration. As the SS screen plugs up with debris the water level in the 300 gallon tank falls and there is a 4" PVC pipe outside the tank with a float in it and a threaded rod out the top and through a mechanical well pump switch that has an added longer arm. When the float falls far enough it triggers the switch which turns on a 12V motor (12v marine battery powered) and the belt around the drum turns it about 1/8 revolution, takes about 2 seconds then shuts off. There is also a spray bar above the barrel which then cleans the screen of the debris which falls into a gutter inside the barrel and the waste leaves the system. The spray bar solenoid is powered normally and controlled through a solid state relay triggered by the mechanical well pump switch. That all works great. The problem is....there is really no reason for the spray bar to come on each time as it is just a waste of water. Now if the spray bar did not come on the barrel would still do its thing and eventually the screen will plug all the way around to the point where the barrel turning does not make the water rise so the barrel will keep turning. It is at that point I would want the spary bar to be triggered to come on which would be a much more efficient use of water. I just don't know how to do that
I had thought of adding a second switch either a micro switch or well mechanical pump switch to each tank that triggers at a lower water point but that seems clunky and there has to be a way to do it that the spray bar solenoid (24V) does not activate unless the barrel turns for XX seconds?
The electronics are not in the greenhouse but in my attached shop so would be a dry location. Any guidance or ideas would sure be appreciated. I can build most anything but electronics of this sort I am not so comfortable with.
My name is Wills and I own a fig (the fruiting plant) nursery in Florida as well as an online fig discussion forum, not sure if mentioning the sites is allowed? so wont.
In one of my greenhouses have about 10,000 gallons of water for passive heat retention and I also grow tilapia in the tanks. I have two RDF filters which are 55 gallon barrels where the sides are mostly removed and that are covered in very fine stainless steel mesh, it feels like cloth. Each barrel sitting horizontally inside a 300 gallon tank. The water flows into one end of the barrels where it falls out of holes inside the barrel and only way out of that barrel is through the SS fabric hence the filtration. As the SS screen plugs up with debris the water level in the 300 gallon tank falls and there is a 4" PVC pipe outside the tank with a float in it and a threaded rod out the top and through a mechanical well pump switch that has an added longer arm. When the float falls far enough it triggers the switch which turns on a 12V motor (12v marine battery powered) and the belt around the drum turns it about 1/8 revolution, takes about 2 seconds then shuts off. There is also a spray bar above the barrel which then cleans the screen of the debris which falls into a gutter inside the barrel and the waste leaves the system. The spray bar solenoid is powered normally and controlled through a solid state relay triggered by the mechanical well pump switch. That all works great. The problem is....there is really no reason for the spray bar to come on each time as it is just a waste of water. Now if the spray bar did not come on the barrel would still do its thing and eventually the screen will plug all the way around to the point where the barrel turning does not make the water rise so the barrel will keep turning. It is at that point I would want the spary bar to be triggered to come on which would be a much more efficient use of water. I just don't know how to do that
The electronics are not in the greenhouse but in my attached shop so would be a dry location. Any guidance or ideas would sure be appreciated. I can build most anything but electronics of this sort I am not so comfortable with.

