The manufacturer no longer sells the 115v version, I'm just trying to help the client from spending $2400+ to replace the controller.

Automation direct - Hitachi et-al, sell VFD's in that range for ~$250 !

 

Automation direct - Hitachi et-al, sell VFD's in that range for ~$250 !

The biggest issue I believe I'll have is I have to have a way to modulate the vfd, the current control board has a connection for the pressure sensor and then has the ability to increase/decrease the pressure.

I did some simple testing, granted I don't know much in circuit testing...there is one resistor reading OL by the capacitor that died. The other resistors on this board have a resistance reading.

 

If you can show us a color photo of the resistor, there are many here who can describe what the resistance should be, unless you are already doing that as part of the checking.

 

I just searched the identifier and it says its a diode, but measuring across this one has a OL but the others have a resistance. Looks like I need to see how the diode test does.

 

With a standard DMM diode test, a good power diode should test open in one direction and should show some low resistance in the other direction. so the second check now will be to unsolder the diode and repeat the test, given the very slight possibility of a poor solder connection.
Hopefully a replacement diode is available without having that "repair shop" involved. AND I hope that the TS is able and equipped to do the replacement soldering.

Also, the one connection to the lead of that large capacitor does not look quite right, but that might be just the lighting.

 

Okay, so both diodes registered about 0.5v I just had to flip my leads. Flipping leads I got a resistance value close in range to each other as well.

 

Another check to do will be to check any fuses on the circuit board. If there was enough power to burst a capacitor there may also have been enough to open a fuse. That could be a simpl fix if it is the problem.

 

Looking at that capacitor the pad does appear to be pulled off of the board but still appears to be attached to the small trace running along the top layer of the board. I've been watching Northridge Fix on YT trying to learn about testing the components. The caps can't be tested while still on the board can they?

 

A short circuited capacitor will show up in an onboard test, although it often takes an opened circuit by disconnecting one side to verify.

 

Well, a lesson learned today. I bought a new controller and set it up just like the original one, acted the same way, contacted tech support and was like there is no way this new controller is bad in the same way the old one was (in which tech support had told me a constant blinking red light meant the controller was bad), come to find out the dip switches were set incorrectly, I had to start it and measure amp draw and set the controller to the closest setting, prior I was setting it based off of the motor data plate. So, the lesson learned today is tech support doesn't always lead you down the right path. When I mentioned it to tech support, he said, " Yeah, I've seen this happen before as the controller thinks there is no load on the motor if the amp draw setting is too high. Still hoping to be able to repair this old one, I will update my progress along the way.