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This cable has 4 conductors that were connected to a pcb inside a the up/down controller for a motorized reclining chair. I am working with the pcb would like to remove more of the cable jacket to access more wire from the cable, but it would require me to remove this plastic doo-hickey that is around the cable. I don’t want to remove it without knowing its purpose, and was hoping someone could identify it by its technical name so I could learn about it. It’s the ribbed, tapered plastic cylinder that surrounds the cable.
Technical name for plastic cable hardware
- Thread starter FuneralHomeJanitor
- Start date
It's just a molded-on "Strain-Relief" that prevents the Copper-Wires from
bending too-much, and too-often, causing the Wires to eventually break inside the Insulation.
Simply cut it length-wise with a Razor-Knife to remove it.
To put it back in service,
place it around the Cable, and rap it with several layers of Electrical-Tape.
You can also eliminate it completely using common RTV-Silicone-Rubber-Adhesive,
but RTV can be rather "messy" unless you're experienced with using it, and requires a 24-hour cure.
Anything that will prevent excessive, and repeated, sharp bending of the Cable will work,
including an Arrow-brand "T-25" Cable-Stapler, but they're kinda expensive for a single repair-job.
.
.
.
bending too-much, and too-often, causing the Wires to eventually break inside the Insulation.
Simply cut it length-wise with a Razor-Knife to remove it.
To put it back in service,
place it around the Cable, and rap it with several layers of Electrical-Tape.
You can also eliminate it completely using common RTV-Silicone-Rubber-Adhesive,
but RTV can be rather "messy" unless you're experienced with using it, and requires a 24-hour cure.
Anything that will prevent excessive, and repeated, sharp bending of the Cable will work,
including an Arrow-brand "T-25" Cable-Stapler, but they're kinda expensive for a single repair-job.
.
.
.
MisterBill2
- Joined Jan 23, 2018
- 27,159
REally, the instructions are good until the electrical tape, which is both inadequate and messy.
"Sometimes" ....... You get what You pay for .......
There's ~$0.79 cent Chinese Electrical-Tape, ( which is almost useless ),
and then there's ~$4.89 "Scotch-Super-33" Electrical-Tape from 3M, ( which can perform minor-miracles ),
and then there is invaluable life-long-experience with
what works, and what doesn't work, in any given situation,
and we are not there with our Eye-Balls and Wallets.
.
.
.
There's ~$0.79 cent Chinese Electrical-Tape, ( which is almost useless ),
and then there's ~$4.89 "Scotch-Super-33" Electrical-Tape from 3M, ( which can perform minor-miracles ),
and then there is invaluable life-long-experience with
what works, and what doesn't work, in any given situation,
and we are not there with our Eye-Balls and Wallets.
.
.
.
MisterBill2
- Joined Jan 23, 2018
- 27,159
A bit of heat shrink tube over the cord in place of that molded on strain relief, or larger ID heat shrink to hold the split relief in place, will be a better choice.
AND, never tear the plastic tape to break it, only cut it. Tearing it off assures that it will always start to peel off after a while.
AND, never tear the plastic tape to break it, only cut it. Tearing it off assures that it will always start to peel off after a while.
