Try touching your leads together to see what the meter says with a dead short. If it says zero and you're seeing 2.3Ω, then it's not a short. I'm reluctant to offer advice how to proceed because, like you, I don't know what's going on there.

I get 0 touching, and 1 when not touching anything (or fin air).
I guess I'll probably have a go this weekend.

 

So I just tried, and back to square almost one! The fuse blew.
Next, I'll start working on the schematics...

 

Work in progress...

 

Can anyone help me, I have a Baumatic 28, What I am trying to discover is the working voltage on Peltier slab? At present it has 12.6 volts and draws 4 .5 Amps, It doesn't cool though. So am wondering if supply too low?
Many thanks

 

Can anyone help me, I have a Baumatic 28, What I am trying to discover is the working voltage on Peltier slab? At present it has 12.6 volts and draws 4 .5 Amps, It doesn't cool though. So am wondering if supply too low?
Many thanks

That should be working. Are you certain that one side doesn’t get cool? If you wait too long and the hot side fan is not working, both sides will get hot but the cool side should still be cooler than the hot side.

 

That should be working. Are you certain that one side doesn’t get cool? If you wait too long and the hot side fan is not working, both sides will get hot but the cool side should still be cooler than the hot side.

There is very, if any difference between the surfaces. Also after running for four days the internal temperature is within a couple of degrees of the external. When I first got the cooler it was not working at all, replaced all the electrolytic's. I had rad somewhere that C8 can be a problem. To give this a better chance of survival I replaced that with two 100Mf in series. (More plate volume).
Regards

 

There is very, if any difference between the surfaces. Also after running for four days the internal temperature is within a couple of degrees of the external. When I first got the cooler it was not working at all, replaced all the electrolytic's. I had rad somewhere that C8 can be a problem. To give this a better chance of survival I replaced that with two 100Mf in series. (More plate volume).
Regards

I wouldn’t do that! Just use a higher voltage rating if you want to upgrade. Make sure you meet or exceed the original temp spec also.

I’ve never heard of a Peltier failing to cool but still drawing current, but I guess there’s a first for everything. Is there a chance you measured amps in parallel with the panel instead of in series?

 

I wouldn’t do that! Just use a higher voltage rating if you want to upgrade. Make sure you meet or exceed the original temp spec also.

I’ve never heard of a Peltier failing to cool but still drawing current, but I guess there’s a first for everything. Is there a chance you measured amps in parallel with the panel instead of in series?

Hi,
Many thanks for your posting, After a lifetime in electronics (I am now 73) the putting two caps in series has proved practically a good solution to many a problem I've had over the years. Good caps come at a good price, cheap ones with short life span are not worth the effort of changing them. Buy good ones and sit back to enjoy, I have a micro micro brewery doing 26Ltrs at a time and nothing better than sitting back with a pint (or two) in confidence of a repair. In fact I have a brew on at the moment, Irish stout today just like Guinness.

 

Hi guys.

So i have same problem as You guys. One of mine modules stopped working. These is what happened.
1. I have noticed that upper module shows 23 celsius(room temperature) instead of 12, also neither of fans for this module where spinning.
2. After opening refrigarator i have noticed that red LED whas only lightly glowing. Interesting was that right after powering off my cooler, red LED went full brightness and fan where trying to spin. Powering on made same symptons, only red LED was slightly glowing untill power OFF.
3. After 2 minutes of thinking i plugged off all the cables without the Peltier module itself and powered on cooler one more time. This time module died totally. Neither of leds lights up and fans dont even starts to spin.
4. After reading this thread i changed 3 caps(I dont have more right now) C8 and C14/C15. C14 looked little bit blown so i changed also C15.
5. Powering on module with new caps made no change. Module dont shows any sign of life, Only T7 transistor goes really hot(T6 stays cold).

Do you guys have any idea what could happened? I think that powering board only with peltier killed it somehow.

 

Hi everyone, and thanks for all the great info in this thread so far.

So I have a TEC wine cooler that is slightly larger (68 bottles) and therefore uses 3 of these peltier setups, via 3 x fx-102 boards (50mm x 50mm TEC elements). The top element stopped cooling and I soon found that the TEC module wasn't working properly anymore (at least I think, as it is no longer getting hot or cold or either side). When this module is connected to the board though, the fans run fine and both LEDs glow solidly.

I've acquired a new TEC module (TEC1-12715) (supposedly new and working... though can never be sure with ebay...). When I connect this TEC module to the board the lights start flashing, I hear a clicking on the board and both fans stop running, which leads me to believe there might be an issue with the board. (if anyone know whether this points to it being a borked TEC module, please let me know). In any case, based on the contents of this thread, I will first attempt to replace some caps and see how that goes.

---In The Meantime, however--- I've noticed something very interesting in the setup of this fridge. The bottom most PCB board powers the heatsink fan (hot side) of the bottom cooling module, but powers the inside (cold side) fan of the top cooling module. And vice versa (and the middle one powers both inside and outside of the middle TEC module). I thought at first this was done by accident by someone who may have serviced the fridge in the past. But it's actually manufactured that way as the cable for the top module inside fan is nowhere near long enough to reach the top PCB (as it loops through a hole near the bottom of the fridge), and I had to cut the cables to make it fit. Is this common? was wondering if someone here might know why this was done...

 

5. Powering on module with new caps made no change. Module dont shows any sign of life, Only T7 transistor goes really hot(T6 stays cold).

That transistor may have failed to a short. If you're buying caps anyway, I'd order a new one and just replace it. That's sort of a shotgun approach but it's next to impossible to speculate without a lot more information.

 

---In The Meantime, however--- I've noticed something very interesting in the setup of this fridge. The bottom most PCB board powers the heatsink fan (hot side) of the bottom cooling module, but powers the inside (cold side) fan of the top cooling module. And vice versa (and the middle one powers both inside and outside of the middle TEC module). I thought at first this was done by accident by someone who may have serviced the fridge in the past. But it's actually manufactured that way as the cable for the top module inside fan is nowhere near long enough to reach the top PCB (as it loops through a hole near the bottom of the fridge), and I had to cut the cables to make it fit. Is this common? was wondering if someone here might know why this was done...

I've never worked on a multi-module unit, but that sounds bizarre. I could understand the desire to move air around the entire inside of the cabinet to avoid zoning (cool bottom, warm above), but usually the fans in these things are designed to maximize heat transfer to the sink attached to the TEC module. Air circulation in the cabinet is just a secondary effect.

 

Replaced all the caps on the circuit but still didn't. All that time and devotion to the cause lol

So I snipped one of the other boards from their TEC and attached my "new" one and then the other board didnt go either. So either the new unit is borked, or its not rated correctly.

So the unit I got was: TEC-12715. The old unit unfortunately didnt have a model number printed on, but the dimensions are the same (ie. 50mm x 50mm) thickness differs slightly.

here the specs:
Model number: TEC1-12715
Material: Ceramic
Uses: Refrigeration Cooling
Limit Voltage: 15V
Maximum temperature: 68°C
Maximum current: 15A
Dimensions L.B.H (mm): 50x50x4.3mm/1.97 x 1.97 x 0.17"
Weight:42g

Wish I knew the specs of the original one. Not sure there is a way to find out is there?

Other 50mm ones that I found are: TEC-19904, TEC-19905, TEC-19906, TEC-19907, TEC-19908. Just no idea which one to get.

 

Replaced all the caps on the circuit but still didn't. All that time and devotion to the cause lol

So I snipped one of the other boards from their TEC and attached my "new" one and then the other board didnt go either. So either the new unit is borked, or its not rated correctly.

Correct me if I'm wrong. Your repaired board didn't work with the new TEC module, but that same new TEC module connected to a previously working board didn't work either? Did you try your repaired board with a previously working TEC?

I'm surprised the TEC module could be the problem. The ones I've played with are ~1Ω and thus draw as many amps as volts they are supplied. That's what yours should do. It's possible that a small difference that causes a higher amp draw might cause the board to kick out, but like I said, that surprises me. You could try connecting your TEC briefly (a few sounds) to your car battery. It should get cooler on one side and hot on the other. Don't go too long or both sides will get smoking hot.

These boards use protection circuits to shut off the TEC if it gets too hot. I'm wondering if your problem could be related to that. Somehow it thinks there's an overheating problem. Just speculation.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong. Your repaired board didn't work with the new TEC module, but that same new TEC module connected to a previously working board didn't work either? Did you try your repaired board with a previously working TEC?

These boards use protection circuits to shut off the TEC if it gets too hot.

You are correct. And yeah the repaired board appears to work with a previously working TEC (though didnt have it going long enough for me to see or feel the heatsink warming up). But whatever the case it at least runs, lights are steady and the fan runs. With the TEC1-12715 module the lights keep going on on and off and the fans flicker but fail to start (flickering in sync with the lights).

Will check it on a car battery. Though I have strong feeling the new module is simply rated too high. Did some more research and also stumbled on this page:

https://customthermoelectric.com/tech-info/te-encyclopedia/what-tec-do-i-have.html

Perhaps that might be of use to some of you. I have ordered a TEC1-12705 based on these guidelines. Will update once it arrives.

 

Thanks to this forum thread, I got my Haier 6 bottle wine cooler going again. Spent $20 to repair a cooler I paid $50 for. Haier has the replacement board for $30 after tax and shipping, but 60% of the cost didn't make sense. I replaced one capacitor at a time and replacing C8 did the trick. Replaced the rest of the capacitors except for C10 (ordered the wrong value 1000 instead of 2200). Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Wife has chilled wines again. Wish I can get the Cuisinart DCC-1200 apart to fix it without tearing the bottom screw holes up to get to the tiny security screws. At least Amazon got one shipped to me in 2 days.

 

Thanks to this forum thread, I got my Haier 6 bottle wine cooler going again. Spent $20 to repair a cooler I paid $50 for. Haier has the replacement board for $30 after tax and shipping, but 60% of the cost didn't make sense. I replaced one capacitor at a time and replacing C8 did the trick. Replaced the rest of the capacitors except for C10 (ordered the wrong value 1000 instead of 2200). Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Wife has chilled wines again. Wish I can get the Cuisinart DCC-1200 apart to fix it without tearing the bottom screw holes up to get to the tiny security screws. At least Amazon got one shipped to me in 2 days.

Hello there,

That's good news. Also, welcome to the forum.

Electrolytic caps seem to have a problem working in power supply circuits most likely because of ripple current. The ones with the highest ripple current seem to go sooner with high ESR and even lowered capacitance. That's why i always recommend checking them first before anything else. I've had a couple things fail for me too because of the caps, and after replacing them with brand new quality units the devices work again like new.

Also, Amazon=Amazing.

 

Thanks to this forum thread, I got my Haier 6 bottle wine cooler going again. Spent $20 to repair a cooler I paid $50 for. Haier has the replacement board for $30 after tax and shipping, but 60% of the cost didn't make sense. I replaced one capacitor at a time and replacing C8 did the trick. Replaced the rest of the capacitors except for C10 (ordered the wrong value 1000 instead of 2200). Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Wife has chilled wines again. Wish I can get the Cuisinart DCC-1200 apart to fix it without tearing the bottom screw holes up to get to the tiny security screws. At least Amazon got one shipped to me in 2 days.

Thanks for taking the time to post back your feedback. The success stories in this thread are really gratifying, starting with my own.

 

Hey Wayneh,

I have the exact same mini cooler, with apparently the same problem. When plugged in, the main control panel just beeps and flashes. The board you show is the exact board that is in my unit. Do you have a parts list for the items you replaced? I'm sure I need to perform the same repair you did.

In addition, I found that if I disconnect the peltier, then the unit powers up normally and the fans all turn on. Seems the peltier is taking too big of a load on the power supply. The peltier checks out fine so it must be the PS.

Mike

Hi everybody
On a Domoclip GS 100, 1 PCB for 2 Peltiers but the diagram is very similar, I replaced the following components in short circuit, open circuit or strong ESR:

T6, T7
R35, R38, R36, R34
D10
C14, 13, 9, 7, 8, 5, 4, 18
DD2 (DD1 and DD2 in parallel)

The 12 volt came back without load
7.5 volts with 4 fans
no start with the TECs

It was T5 which was ko (C1815) of the push-pull T4-T5 which brings regulation from the TL494!

Now everything is ok, 12 volts whatever the load!

Thanks for the schematics

Google traduction

 

...
Beside those already mentioned I also replaced the display since the second digit was almost completely out.
That was a huge pain since I could not find the same display anywhere on the Internet. The original display was blue, common anode, 10 pins (only 9 used) HGA4023HB-C.
The only option I was able to find, also blue in color, common anode, with Pin 10 common anode for the first digit and Pin 5 common anode for the second digit was the one from Mauser.com, DA03-11PBWA/A.
Anyway, there are some issues with this display.
-First, the display is slightly smaller in size, including the digits. Overall it's not that much of a difference so I ignored.
-Second, except for Pin 5 and Pin 10, the common anodes, all the other pins differ. For that I had to run a bunch of wires from the new display pins to the corresponding pins on the board.
...

The temperature display on my Haier wine cooler only displays half of one of two digits. The part# on the display is the same as this post on page 3.. part# HGA4023HB-C

Has anyone found the direct replacement, or possibly one that the pins aren't completely different? I haven't come across the pin schematic for the display, in case I have to buy the one this guy got from Mouser, part# DA03-11PBWA/A, does anyone happen to have the schematic or know the pin out for the 10 pin LED display so I can wire the pins to the correct spots on the board?

Thank you