OK well I used a Ryobi 18v One+ Battery to test the Peltier, the Battery was running low and showing 9V. The Peltier got hot one side and cold the other, Tested with a Heat scanner. I replaced all Fans, just to be sure as one had a bad bearing. I replaced all the second stage Caps and put in over rated ones there too this time. and she is all up and running again.

 

The more I thought about this, the more I thought it needed a modification. So I added another Fan, a 12V 80mm mounted right over the centre of the PSU to keep it cool.Spliced into Fan 2. Lets see if it lasts more than 3 years this time.

 

View attachment 159393

Thanks for the fine contributions on this board.

I was given an non-working Emerson FR24SL 8-bottle wine cooler. As suggested, I disconnected the Peltier power from the board, plugged into the wall and the unit powered up. I then reconnected the Peltier and the unit was able to cool down to 50 degrees in an 80 degree room. Yeah!!!

Removed all but the 200V caps (those are made by a different company - HY) and will replace. Have attached a photo of my board. It has both model numbers printed on the board Not sure if the FX102 is highlighted or crossed out by the markings, but I identified the caps and added their descriptions to the bottom of the photo.

Hope this helps someone else.

 

View attachment 159393

Thanks for the fine contributions on this board.

I was given an non-working Emerson FR24SL 8-bottle wine cooler. As suggested, I disconnected the Peltier power from the board, plugged into the wall and the unit powered up. I then reconnected the Peltier and the unit was able to cool down to 50 degrees in an 80 degree room. Yeah!!!

Removed all but the 200V caps (those are made by a different company - HY) and will replace. Have attached a photo of my board. It has both model numbers printed on the board Not sure if the FX102 is highlighted or crossed out by the markings, but I identified the caps and added their descriptions to the bottom of the photo.

Hope this helps someone else.

I have replaced every cap including diodes still not working anyone got any ideas

 

I have replaced every cap including diodes still not working anyone got any ideas

More details please. Pictures might help.

 

More details please. Pictures might help.

in addition to replacing the all caps I replaced the 3 transistors connect to the heat sinks ,the thermisistor still
No power to the TEC, fans and the led light do not illuminate

 

in addition to replacing the all caps I replaced the 3 transistors connect to the heat sinks ,the thermisistor still
No power to the TEC, fans and the led light do not illuminate

Anything different if you disconnect the TEC? Fuse is good?

 

No. The TEC is good I connected 12v to the TEC it cools like it should. The output voltage to the TEC is less than 3volts. No led lights either

 

No. The TEC is good I connected 12v to the TEC it cools like it should. The output voltage to the TEC is less than 3volts. No led lights either

Is that 3V measured with or without the TEC connected? It's bad either way, but I'm just wondering if the voltage comes up if the load of the TEC is removed. Just curious, really, because I don't know how to proceed. Some in this thread have had success replacing the entire board. That's what I'd be facing in your case, if I'd already replaced all the caps. You might double check the orientation of all those caps to make sure you got them in right. Were some of the old ones low-ESR rated? It would be important to meet or exceed that rating.

 

output voltage 3v without the tec connected. caps are oriented correct doubled and triple check the esr. Im stumped. replaced the bad diodes too. fuses are good nothing blown

 

output voltage 3v without the tec connected. caps are oriented correct doubled and triple check the esr. Im stumped. replaced the bad diodes too. fuses are good nothing blown

About the only other thing I can think to do is to examine the schematics others have provided earlier in this thread, and look for voltage test points that you could look for and check on your board. For instance that IC on the low voltage side should have a DC voltage (12V?) on its power pins.

That pretty much exhausts anything I can help with. There are experts around here that might dig a little deeper but without tools (like an oscilloscope) and that talent, options are limited.

 

output voltage 3v without the tec connected. caps are oriented correct doubled and triple check the esr. Im stumped. replaced the bad diodes too. fuses are good nothing blown

Is anything connected, it might need a load to start. Also check the MOV is not open.

One issues I had the first time i fixed mine, the clown in the store sold me the wrong Transistor.

 

I have some feed back regarding my board! After removing many parts, my fuse was still blowing until...I found out that the 2 out of the 4 diodes at the really beggining of the board, after the yellow capacitor and the coil, are bad! This seems to be a good explanation for the short.
I'll replace them next week, and hopefully, the fridge will be back in working state after ... at least two years I think!

 

I have some feed back regarding my board! After removing many parts, my fuse was still blowing until...I found out that the 2 out of the 4 diodes at the really beggining of the board, after the yellow capacitor and the coil, are bad! This seems to be a good explanation for the short.
I'll replace them next week, and hopefully, the fridge will be back in working state after ... at least two years I think!

That's the main bridge rectifier, so makes sense.
Good luck.

 

No. The TEC is good I connected 12v to the TEC it cools like it should. The output voltage to the TEC is less than 3volts. No led lights either

question when testing the diode in circuit I can get voltage both ways through the diode HOWEVER when removing the diode out of circuit it test correctly why is this happening?

 

question when testing the diode in circuit I can get voltage both ways through the diode HOWEVER when removing the diode out of circuit it test correctly why is this happening?

Not sure if you got a reply to this, but its because you are measuring the Circuit not the component if its still in the Circuit.

 

Not sure if you got a reply to this, but its because you are measuring the Circuit not the component if its still in the Circuit.

Something else in parallel with the diode.

 

Hi i have a dual zone wine enthusiast cooler. One side has stopped cooling well so I bought a replacement tec. went to switch it out ( each side of my cooler has two of these tec). As opposed to splicing the wires I cut the at the board they were connected to. How can I find a replacement board. See picture. Or is there another solution?

 

That looks like it's just a connector/distribution board. Can you just de-solder the old TEC wires and solder in the new ones?
Unless I don't understand your question.

 

That looks like it's just a connector/distribution board. Can you just de-solder the old TEC wires and solder in the new ones?
Unless I don't understand your question.

You def understand my question. Thank you. I tried to resolder ( never done this before) but I couldn’t get or don’t think I was able to get the new wire to the old wire enough. The new TEC didn’t appear to work. ( didn’t get warm).

Do I need the connector board? The white thing on the right side of the pic appears to be what in theory I am connecting to. It has two reds and two blacks. Or where can I buy this exact board.

Thanks for the help.