I don't know if you can get a replacement. Try googling some of those numbers on the board. But if the original circuit did not have disconnects between this board and the TECs (like the fans do) then it would come with the TECs attached.
Time to buy a decent soldering iron. It's not hard to learn and we are here to help.
Welcome to AAC by the way.

 

I don't know if you can get a replacement. Try googling some of those numbers on the board. But if the original circuit did not have disconnects between this board and the TECs (like the fans do) then it would come with the TECs attached.
Time to buy a decent soldering iron. It's not hard to learn and we are here to help.
Welcome to AAC by the way.

I did buy a soldering gun. A very basic one. I guess will try and remove the old solder and go from there.

 

Watch some tutorials on YouTube on how to solder and de-solder. Use some good rosin core solder. Post a pic or the model number of your gun and we can offer some tips. Soldering is not hard to do but easier with a little foreknowledge.

 

Watch some tutorials on YouTube on how to solder and de-solder. Use some good rosin core solder. Post a pic or the model number of your gun and we can offer some tips. Soldering is not hard to do but easier with a little foreknowledge.

I got a very basic one.

25-Watt Standard Duty Soldering Iron Kit

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204195328

 

I got a very basic one.

25-Watt Standard Duty Soldering Iron Kit

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204195328

I got it fixed. De solder and reconnected two new tec’s. Most instruction say the side with letters would be facing outward. Not the case with the two new ones. Nonetheless and after flipping them my wine cooler is happily cooling. Pretty quickly too.

Thanks for everyone’s help.

 

I got it fixed. De solder and reconnected two new tec’s. Most instruction say the side with letters would be facing outward. Not the case with the two new ones. Nonetheless and after flipping them my wine cooler is happily cooling. Pretty quickly too.

Thanks for everyone’s help.

Great news! Thanks for the feedback.
Well done!

 

I humbly submit that this thread contains more success stories than any other at AAC.

Any quibbles with that claim?

 

I humbly submit that this thread contains more success stories than any other at AAC.

Any quibbles with that claim?

Not from me.

 

I humbly submit that this thread contains more success stories than any other at AAC.

Any quibbles with that claim?

No. In fact, I will look into making it a sticky.
I got my caps today and note that all pulls so far have been slag. The schematic posted earlier was very helpful even if it wasn’t my exact board.

More as it develops.. cooking burgers..

 

No, but the small ones for use in a car might work. Just give it power from an old laptop power brick. I think if it's designed to handle a car's power supply, it can handle ~19V out of the brick. Or you could drop the voltage with, say, 6 diodes in series. Of course you could also just buy a 12V AC adapter.

 

No. In fact, I will look into making it a sticky.
I got my caps today and note that all pulls so far have been slag. The schematic posted earlier was very helpful even if it wasn’t my exact board.

More as it develops.. cooking burgers..

Replacing the electrolytics did the trick, the cooler is working fine now.

I did have an issue and found that the filter capacitors in the primary side needed to be connected to the rest of the circuit by an intentional solder blob between two traces connecting D16-D17 to C21 on the schematic posted here:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/repair-thermoelectric-cooler.101748/page-5#post-1130015

It's part of the 120V/240V voltage selection 'jumpers' not marked but scoping it out showed no filtering and examination showed no connection.

FWIW, that schematic wasn't for my particular unit - mine has dual coolers - but matches pretty closely with it, right down to the reference designators.

@wayneh Put me down in the 'shotgun the electrolytics' camp.
Thanks all particularly @N11778 for posting the skiz.

 

Sorry, I should have added (from reply #36) http://dicasdozebio.com/2013/12/01/1547/
(in Portuguese).

Great info in Portuguese here. Link to Google Translate:
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=pt&tl=en&u=https://dicasdozebio.com/2013/12/01/1547/

 

Hi Everyone from Almaty, Kazakhstan

My wine cooler went dead after a power outage/voltage surge.
I blew the dust from my tools and started repairing it.
It has an FX102 board with 10.5V output.
Diagnostics revealed burned both power transistors and resistors in the base circuit.
I ordered MJE 13005D transistors + 2-ohm resistors. It did partially solved an issue. But the start of the board wasn't stable (it wasn't starting at all time to time)
Then after reading this thread, I ordered a set of capacitors. Changed them all (except big capacitors 100uF and 2000uF) today and the cooler now works perfectly.

Thanks to all who contributed with materials, pictures, parts list etc.

BTW I found on Aliexpress Cooling main board for water dispenser - S126AM12 / S126XF12 / SH6429C - it has a little bit different layout but looks like having all the same inputs/outputs as FX102 and the price is $11 only. That was my plan B in case recap won't help.

 

I acquired a 'free" Wine Enthusiast Cooler from a friend. It had quit cooling. Fans on the hot side of the TEC's work, the control panel on the front worked but it doesn't cool and the fan inside on the cold side didn't work. I am very happy to have found this forum. Thank you everyone who has posted on this thread. After reading from page one through most of the posts, I have decided to do the suggested and order every cap on the board also a few other parts using Moser ( $19.00 with tax and shipping). In addition, I went to Amazon and found a pair of the TECs' for just under $11.00.. might as well change those too. I will post when it all comes in. For some of the parts on this board, I was having issues finding the correct replacement but Moser has great online chat and they were really good at helping.

 

Correction to my post. I meant Mouser and not Moser.

 

I juste finish my repair abd every thing seems to be working. The only isue i have is with the red light in the midle

I have looked at the original Digikey order list and have noticed that most of the components were rated for only 1000 hours at 105 degrees. As it is obvious that caps fail quickly here because of the bad design. The bad part being the fact that the board is right over the heating side of peltier element, making caps heat up. Also at least in my fridge there is no vents or cooling over the circuit board.

All of this leads to overheating of circuit board and components and early cap failure. So the bottom line is that we need caps that are rated for the highest temperature and life span. I have therefore looked up the caps that have at least 10000 hours at 105 degrees. Here are the part numbers in case you want to minimize the need to replace again in the future.

CartShare with part numbers:
http://www.digikey.ca/short/357b7m

Hope this helps us to avoid the need to replace the caps again in 1-2 years due to the poorly designed product.

Thanks,
monsterru

I use those pieces and everything seems to be working fine. the only issue I have is with the red light in the middle of the board: it's on. Is it normal?

 

If it’s like the others here, yes, both the red and green LEDs should be on. Red always, green when it’s calling for cooling.

 

Looking for advice on what to look at, how to repair an appliance.

A friend picked up a small wine cooler at a garage sale, for free because it was not running. She figured I might fix it. So I went after it.

Here's what I know so far. This is a ~70W peltier refrigerator. It uses 2, 12V computer-type fans on the hot side of the heat sink and I think just one on the cold side. One of the hot fans has seized - very stiff to turn by hand - and its power lead had lost insulation where it may have rubbed against the edge of the heat sink. I disconnected the bad fan and replaced a 2.5A soldered-on fuse on the controller PCB with a 2.0A fuse I had on hand. When power was reapplied, the internal fan came on briefly but soon the fuse blew again and a puff of smoke rose off the PCB !!!

Unfortunately I was looking inside the unit and was unable to see where the smoke had come from. There is nothing obviously wrong on the board except the blown fuse.

I unsoldered the TEC leads and checked the resistance - I get about 0.8Ω (not a dead short) but my cheap meter is not reliable at such low ohms. When Peltier units fail, do they fail to a short?

Also connected by jumpers to the PCB are the hot and cold fans, an NTC temperature probe, AC power, and an LCD control panel for adjusting the temperature set point.

I have the same wine small cooler (Emerson FR966T) and I recently changed out the ten capacitors on the TEC side of the board and it is working great again. The largest cap appeared to be bulging a bit.

 

question when testing the diode in circuit I can get voltage both ways through the diode HOWEVER when removing the diode out of circuit it test correctly why is this happening?

Checking back in with this thread after long absence...
@bhc65 Did you give up on this supply? I expect that you may have a primary side failure still.
I described the secondary side operation and comparitor function in an early thread.
Would it be useful to give a functional description of the primary side operation and a walk through of debugging its operation?
Note that this is a mains connected supply with lethal consequences if you make a mistake.

 

Checking back in with this thread after long absence...
@bhc65 Did you give up on this supply? I expect that you may have a primary side failure still.
I described the secondary side operation and comparitor function in an early thread.
Would it be useful to give a functional description of the primary side operation and a walk through of debugging its operation?
Note that this is a mains connected supply with lethal consequences if you make a mistake.

It think a primary side description would be most helpful and if you can find it, a link to the discussion of the secondary side would be nice. I took the liberty of highlighting your caution about working with mains. Users who are not knowledgeable in that area should seek help from someone who is.