I can only say that I am by no means a power engineer... I only followed what most on here posted...
But after all this time, it seems like once we got rid of the larger, cheaper "foreign made" capacitors, things got better (ie, more accurate power) and lasted longer....
I'd just have to suggest digikey or mauser over alibaba....

 

I repalce all capacitor before repair PCB

 

I just finished repairing an FX-101 PCB121110K1 board from a Westinghouse Wine Cellar Model WWT080MB (single cooling module) using the full Mouser shopping list in this thread (all electrolytic caps and the shottky diode). It's working perfectly now. Previously it would drop DC power as soon as the peltier was plugged in. Thanks to everyone in this group for the detailed info and schematics!

 

Managed to find the FX-101 board on ambientstores.com, search for part WC-PWRCD9062-062. It was only$11.44, plus $10 shipping. Website looks sketchy with incomplete pages, but it arrived in 13 days and works without any issues.

 

Hi, I'm also working on a wine cooler , my board looks a little different 0757-83835018, my question is if i remove the board and just add AC power to it will i still get DC power to the peltier connector? with everything hooked up , i get red light fan power the peltier gets a little bit cool, testing only has 2V under load and there is 2 lights on the board a red and green the green one don't light up, i have replaced all caps already i cant seem to find a schematic for this can anybody point me in the right direction ?

 

Newbee here. I have an FX-101 PCB 90829f1 10.5v board in an Emerson wine cooler that does not cool and the fan does not run. There is no obvious component damage or cap leakage. I can only find the 12v version of the PCB. Would the 12v version work as a replacement for the 10.5v version? Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. Thank you.

 

Another vote for replacing C8... I remember I only replaced it on one of the power supplies a few years back. Since this one didnt look like a 3rd grader soldered it, I'm going to assume I was working on the other PS.

 

Newbee here. I have an FX-101 PCB 90829f1 10.5v board in an Emerson wine cooler that does not cool and the fan does not run. There is no obvious component damage or cap leakage. I can only find the 12v version of the PCB. Would the 12v version work as a replacement for the 10.5v version? Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. Thank you.

I would like to know this also, I have a fx-101 with 10.5v. I am assuming if I replace with board recommended by whipple00 that is 12.5v, would it be too much power?

 

Managed to find the FX-101 board on ambientstores.com, search for part WC-PWRCD9062-062. It was only$11.44, plus $10 shipping. Website looks sketchy with incomplete pages, but it arrived in 13 days and works without any issues.

Would this 12v board work in place of a FX-101 PCB 90829f1 10.5v board? I was wondering about what the voltage difference would make.

 

Newbee here. I have an FX-101 PCB 90829f1 10.5v board in an Emerson wine cooler that does not cool and the fan does not run. There is no obvious component damage or cap leakage. I can only find the 12v version of the PCB. Would the 12v version work as a replacement for the 10.5v version? Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. Thank you.

I replaced C8 and all is good ! Down to 54 degrees and working well the last few days. Thank you all for your suggestions.

 

Hi, another newbie here.

I have a Wine Enthusiast wine cooler with two FX-101B PCB120606F1 boards, each of which has a two-pin peltier connection. The cooler turns off shortly after starting if the top peltier is connected to the top board, but will work if I leave the top peltier unplugged until after the cooler has started. I couldn't find any obvious component damage with the board, and don't have much in way of soldering skills, so I have been trying to find a replacement board.

I wound up buying a new FX-101 board without realizing that the FX-101 board only has blade posts for the peltier connection. Does anyone know if it's possible to adapt the FX-101 board to connect to the peltier's two-pin cable?

Any advice would be welcome.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone who has posted here--I recently purchased a Frigidaire wine cooler (FFWC18L2QB) which almost immediately started having the same problems everyone has decribed (runs for a few hours or maybe a day, then stops cooling). It has the same or similar PCB (FX-101B PCB120606F1) as those described in this thread, and simply replacing the C8 capacitor with this one (https://www.digikey.com/product-det...onic-components/EEU-HD1E470/P15141-ND/2796099) worked for me too! I had no real previous experience with soldering or circuits at all, so this can be an easy fix for anyone. It has since been running for a couple of months without problems.

 

I have looked at the original Digikey order list and have noticed that most of the components were rated for only 1000 hours at 105 degrees. As it is obvious that caps fail quickly here because of the bad design. The bad part being the fact that the board is right over the heating side of peltier element, making caps heat up. Also at least in my fridge there is no vents or cooling over the circuit board.

All of this leads to overheating of circuit board and components and early cap failure. So the bottom line is that we need caps that are rated for the highest temperature and life span. I have therefore looked up the caps that have at least 10000 hours at 105 degrees. Here are the part numbers in case you want to minimize the need to replace again in the future.

CartShare with part numbers:
http://www.digikey.ca/short/357b7m

Hope this helps us to avoid the need to replace the caps again in 1-2 years due to the poorly designed product.

Thanks,
monsterru

Thank you so much for this, and the Canadian Digikey to boot

 

Still one US company with shipping from Thief River Falls, MN.
Only difference is the .ca website shows C$.

 

Quick question, and I will try to research myself - but what's the difference between the $0.11 capacitor and the $2.50 one with the same capacity, temperature, format, voltage, hours, etc?

Some of the parts from the original list here are obsolete and not available. I assume there's some reason the more expensive types were chosen?

 

One capacitor is in stock at a reputable electronics parts distributor.
The other came from a bag of 10,000 pcs that fell out of the back of a truck.

 

View attachment 159393

Thanks for the fine contributions on this board.

I was given an non-working Emerson FR24SL 8-bottle wine cooler. As suggested, I disconnected the Peltier power from the board, plugged into the wall and the unit powered up. I then reconnected the Peltier and the unit was able to cool down to 50 degrees in an 80 degree room. Yeah!!!

Removed all but the 200V caps (those are made by a different company - HY) and will replace. Have attached a photo of my board. It has both model numbers printed on the board Not sure if the FX102 is highlighted or crossed out by the markings, but I identified the caps and added their descriptions to the bottom of the photo.

Hope this helps someone else.

I have already replaced the fans once and that worked, now I need help getting it back after the wine fridge went out again, what to I need to do exactly? Thanks in advanced.

 

I have already replaced the fans once and that worked, now I need help getting it back after the wine fridge went out again, what to I need to do exactly? Thanks in advanced.

You need to give us more information than just "went out again"

Please read through the thread, and if what is already discussed doesn't help, create a new thread - this is just the success thread.

But the general answer is "replace all the capacitors", however that may not work for you depending on exactly what your problem is.

 

Hi everbody, I am new here but like electronics (not studied for, just a mechanical engineer). In Italy my wife gifted me a wine fridge KLARSTEIN with a couple of power modules hanny.com.cn C-7754 C to supply a couple of Peltier cells TEC1 12706 ... It just stopped cooling and and noisy fans on hot side stopped to work either ... Well I measured low tension with the cells connected and believed the fans stopped working because there was no heat to remove... , and 12 V with open circuit therefore I assumed it was the cell broken and power supply working ... I was wrong! I purchased for 40 bucks two Peltier CUI devices and now I wasted ... Apparently the failure is due to capacitors, just wanted to understand a little bit more before the next order to digikey... How is it possible a capacitor to cause this failure? I wanted to replace only the capacitors closest to heat sources (I am not very nice with tin soldier) do you approve? What about building some sort of heat dissipator around each capacitor with aluminum paper?

 

Thank you so much for this, and the Canadian Digikey to boot

Hello Telek,

Don't suppose you still have that list of 10000 hour caps? The link goes to an empty page. Many thanks